Precise1

What I mean is that I'm not sure that warped rotors are part of the 'jerking stop' issue you complained about, but then I have not inspected or driven you vehicle so I'm going more by hunch.... You need a lathe or brake turning machine to turn the rotors. What is done is to mount the rotors (preferably by the locating surface) on a lathe and spin it. They you drag a sharp tool across both sides, making them flat and parallel. Simple operation really, but you need a lathe and a little bit of experience... Bernard

Someone, Flyer I think, posted a link in the general forum (I think) on bulb comparison done professionally. They seemed to think the PIAA's were lousy. I don't really know, just parroting. Check out the link and draw your own conclusion. Bernard

Yes, it is the same as turning (putting it on a lathe) but it's kinda funny he calls it shaving, like you have hairy rotors or something.... Yes, most 'complete' shops will have a machine for turning durms and rotors, or they will oursource it. Either way, it's no big deal. While turning the rotors usually doesn't hurt, I still question if this is the issue. I'm morally opposed to paying for work that doesn't directly address the issue. But then again, I haven't inspected the brake system or driven the car so I'm not going to cry foul too loud... Good luck, and keep us informed please. Bernard

What you say makes sense OptiOn, but then not everyone has fabrication skills and/or access to a convenient metal supply, a large pipe bender, a welder, a powercoater, a place to do the work, etc... Not to mention those who would make more $ in their own occupation VS the time it would take them to design and fabricate the item themselves. I use this principle often to optimize long term 'bang for buck'. Good for you if you can knock out a pair though Bernard

Hey OptiOn. I'll beat everyone to the obvious and standard answer... Use the 'search' function and read. That being said, there is a good write up by 88 at the top of the garage section titles 'rear spring options...' or something equally identifyable. Coil spring compressors, jack and jackstands are about all you need other than common sense. The T-bars are easy.... Jack up and support the front end. Loosen the locking nut, turn the bolt clockwise (while securing the second nut I believe). If your truck sits even (from side to side) just count the turns and do it the same on both sides. If you crank them up a lot, have it aligned. The T-bars should take you 20 minutes.... Good luck. Bernard

LOL 88 !! You are right about the way it would have to be done, but dont dare too much; I may make one just to have you eat your words.... Seriously, I see how to do it, but it would be a moderate PITA requiring a CNC mill, and not remotely cost effective. Anything can be made, but I said, I had never seen one. *bows and backs out of the room, keeping one hand near his gun* Bernard

Good questions Reido. First, aluminum is much easier to work with, and any on site installment mods required by 88 on the prototype can be done with a file/dremmel easily. Second, aluminum doesn't rust. Third, a steel unit would require several different pieces welded together, and I'm not all that good a welder yet. Fourth, steel is cheaper, but the loss in workability and the increased labor/tooling for manufacture would drive the price higher than just purchasing aluminum stock. Aluminum does fatigue more rapidly, but remember that fatigue happens mainly when forces are sufficient to stress/bend the material. If you look at your stock PHRM, you will notice that it is not the most impressive unit. 3/16 steel at best, stamped and folded (which weakens the metal) and not even welded in the rear. My initial guesstimate of .5" thick walls for the 'bell' end should provide equal stiffness. I have yet to do calculations from the machinist hand book, or have an engineer do stress analysis but I'm fairly certain thats roughly comparable. In addition, all fillets (internal edges) will be radiused; sharp edges (welds included) are the weak point. The PHRM is not the only thing holding the rear axle in place, it merely seems to be the stabilizing./aligning bar so the forces should not be excessive, and as I mentioned before, the addition of steel hole inserts and/or shoulder bolts will negate slop and possible wear of the immediate through hole area. I have worked with a few engineers from Boeing and seen/had described the wing spar and strut assemblies, all of which are aluminum, 6061T6 mainly. If you saw these wing components and considered the weight of the plane/cargo and thrust from the engines you would probably never fly again. I cant even help but watch the wings when aloft.... As for the clearance issue, true, if your tire dropped straight off a rock and there was another directly under the PHRM you could tag it, but it is considerably higher and not much farther rear than the rear diff, so there are a few other things that would hang up and take abuse first. Besides, we try not to do that Technically, you could raise up the axle mount side but there are several more immediate issues. If you have significant articluation it is possible that you have interference with the pan or something else. Also, standing up like that you create a moment arm (as opposed to a rigid mount) that creates significantly more force on the entire system. If you were to significantly articulate the rear axle, the sine error would have the effect of pushing/pulling the rear axle laterally, doing god knows what but I'm sure increased bushing wear would be a result. This still occurs somewhat if you drop the pan side mount, but not as much, and the Nissan engineers designed it to be that way so I'm loathe to second guess them. Also, VERY importantly, there is only one bolt on the axle to mount off of which would create a pivot point, where as on the pan side, there is a bracket directly off of the frame that has two staggered bolt holes existing, and could be drilled for more/different bolt patterns making manufacturing far more simple. Lastly, 88's reply was "Holy Cow, that looks BEEFY !!", and didn't whimper or whine when I suggested aluminum. Like I said before, if he doesn't mangle it, it's a proven product Thanks much for the critical questions Reido. This is still in the prototype stage, and why I started this thread. I WANT critical questions !! I have obviously spent a lot of time working on this, but I can miss something as easy as the next person. What I want to do is create a good product, which is why I'm not just whipping something out.... Parts I make have my 'name' on them which means there is a standard to hold. Besides, I have my arrogant login name to live up to Examine my logic and methods; find any errors you can think of and let me know ! This is just the start of the products; more to come !! Thanks all Bernard

For what it's worth, those with a VG30E (air box in the front drivers side) I can make MAF adapters quite easily... If the pre-96 altima adapters work(with holes filed/redrilled) and you can get them CHEAP, then go for it. For others that dont have the time or desire to monkey around (and dont want to deal with fuel hose) get in touch with me. I'm not knocking the other methods, but some people want plug and play, not fooling around with parts and frankenmechanics. Maybe I can make an adaptor for the VG30i, but I have never seen one.... Bernard

Good job 95Finder ! Sounds like you took the right approach and fixed everything, rather than a quickie fix. Not that quickies are not appropriate sometimes, but when it comes to fuel, hydrolics, or electrical, you are asking for it. I can sympathize with your solid line adventure; I replaced the hi-pressure power steering pump line in an old Nissan 720 pickup. It wrapped the entire engine compartment/front frame cross member with only 6" of flex line at one end. I kept removing more and more parts, day after day because I would get so frustrated I had to walk away from it. I finally got it in through the passenger wheel well, bent it to get it around a 'corner' then bent it back and bolted it to the frame. It ranks in the top 10 of PITA jobs I have ever done on a car. Again, well done... Bernard

2,3 and 4"; noted 88. Makes more sense that the numbers I pulled out of my hiney.... I should have a dimensioned drawing no later than end of the weekend, and I'll send you 'blueprint' type dimensioned drawings for a rough conformation. The only modification I have thought of so far is steel sleeves for the bolt holes and/or using shoulder bolts; I'll be more specific when I've worked it through. Disturbed1, your avatar had me laughing out loud and disturbing my co-workers; WAY COOL ! BUT, don't hero worship 88 too much or he wont be able to get his swollen head inside his truck to test my parts... Bernard

Hey BigMike. I used to own a machine shop and had both. I also had a partner; now I have neither.... Kinda a sore subject. Anyway, I may be able to do some at my new job (Tool and Die Optical Diamond Turning) as they have a full machine shop and G jobs are allowable to some degree. (Just talked to the owner and he said "its your time, just don't hurt yourself") :cool2: I also have a friend that owns his own machine shop, and I can use his equipment if I want. Ultimately, if this takes off, I'll start buying my own equipment.... Yep, I'm sure your Pop could make these and other things; the hardest part is the design and fitment. Definitely keep up on your AutoCAD !!! It pays off in the long run. I designed the piece in SolidWorks in the first 4 hours of ever using the software; it's much more user friendly! Work hard Mike, its about time they armor those hummers, and I'm sure the guys over there will appreciate your effort !! Bernard

Thanks for the positive words ! The unit should fit all Pathys through 1995, but that will be confirmed with 88. I SERIOUSLY doubt I will have units by the end of the year. I still have some designing left, machining the prototype, and having 88 test it. There is no sense in my making and shipping out 10 units that don't fit or fail. Sorry, but no way around it. Heck, if these were never available before, you can wait another month for a good 1 -bounce- I don't know what the cost would be; The price of the aluminum and my time are the two real factors, but if I make them in batches it should be reasonable.... The amount of drop you want is the only real part variable. I'll probably make units in 2" 4" and 6" drops.... Anyway feedback is welcome ! Bernard

Hello all. Here is my rought idea for a PHRXM. While something adjustable would be nice, I haven't yet figured out how to do that while retaining simplicity and strength. Anyway, feel free to take a look and critique/make suggestions; it would be appreciated. The pictures are not exactly scaled correctly, but are close enough to convey the thought. This prototype will be made from billet aluminum (6061T6) and have .5" thick walls in the 'bell' section. 88 will test it out, so if HE doesn't break/mangle it, I'm sure it will be sufficient for the rest of the world. It would be easy/cheaper to make the same type of extension mount as a 3 piece mount together, but I think it's best to start with a solid piece. Anyway, hopefully I'll be able to make these for the people who need them. Thanks.... http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-1.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-2.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-3.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-4.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-5.jpg http://hosting.damagedreality.com/precise1/phrx-6.jpg Bernard

Welcome, and congrats on your purchase. 60K miles on a 89 is a rare find so you will make many people jealous !! Yeah, the pathys kinda grow on you. I knew my 95xe was a good truck (which is why I bought it) but the more I drive it and upgrade worn parts, the more I like it. A lot of people complain about the lack of power and pathys are certainly not drag racers, but that is not what they were designed for. Sounds like you are following all the right mods to boost things up anyway. Keep up the good work, and remember that with a little love, you could drive your new friend another 200K miles !! Bernard

I agree... Little bigfoot... :cool2: :bow: -bounce- B

Transworldmoto, are you serious ? You are telling me that if one's rotor is .0001" higher or lower in any of 4 opposing spots it's warped ? First off, that measures out of parallel, not warp. By your definition ALL rotors come warped from the factory ! .0001" is 1/40TH the width of a hair.... You measure the rotor 'warp' (run out) with an indicator while spinning the mounted rotor and the manual states factory spec for a 90-95 at .0028 max allowable, and that is a very tight spec. I'm certain that the brakes on an 01 have not been upgraded to the level you imply. All the shops I've been in turn the rotors true, not grind, although that would be preferable if they kept the rotors cool enough not to re-warp them. Not trying to flame you, but you are so far off the mark it is hard not to be critical, and people can be misled. edta1- First have the brakes bled by someone who knows the proper routine, then, assuming the brake pads, etc are in good shape, I would consider caliper problems. If they check out ok, then it may be a front end component. FYI, warped rotors will make the brake petal pulse and or the steering wheel shudder a little when the brakes are applied. Bernard

When I was looking for a Pathy, it was for the most basic model I could find. I'm right there with ya... I could not find one without at least power windows, if not more, regardless of age/milage. It seemed like they were all loaded, but maybe thats what sold to the yuppies back then.... As for your lack of description of what you have found, not to mention where you are, I wont even try to estimate a price. As MZX said, try Kelly Blue Book for starters. For what it is worth, I bought a 95XE (power windows, locks) with 110K for %5800 in north Ca in about 95% condition. Best thing is to have the $ and be patient. When you see it, you will know it. GL. Bernard

Are you kidding ?? American vehicles are great as long as you buy it new and trade it in after 2 years... I have a buddy who does this religiously... He always has a new, cool truck of some sort, and he always takes it in the shorts with the depreciation, and always has payments... I don't think he has ever stopped to consider what it is really costing him. He once asked me why I don't buy a new truck. I replied by asking him why doesn't he actually own his vehicle, this one still runs fine, why is new 'better', and I like to eat good steak. The last one hit a nerve; he never has any money.... In all reality, some american vehicles are pretty good but it is best to find out from ratings where it is proven, then buy a good low mile model used. New is not necessarily better (anything less than 3 years old is 'new' as the reliability issues usually have not become evident) My neighbor is a tow truck driver and swears that 50% of the vehicles he tows are GM. "What year and models" I asked, "GM" was his reply. He has a white Ford Taurus (sp) that he likes, and he wants to put flame decals on it. Not from the front to the back, but from the grill and wheel wells upward. What does that tell ya ?? Oh, his wife's car is a 90 Pathfinder that he is VERY impressed with.... Personally, I'm happy with Nissan, and for 5-8K you can get a nice (relatively) low mile specimen that has proven reliability. But then, to each their own.... Bernard

At the tender age of twenty I was raking leaves in my moms yard and for some reason remembered the old cartoon ploy of someone stepping on the tines of a metal rake and getting knocked silly by the handle. Well, lying not 10 feet away, tines up, was a metal rake.... TIME TO EXPERIMENT !! Sort of a real life 'myth buster' episode... So after slowly, cautiously testing, and determining that yes, a rake can actually behave like that, it was time. I slowly stepped on the tines a few times to determine the path of the handle, catching it in my outspread hand. OK, now for the real thing... I stepped down fully, and watched the handle rise up like a cobra on meth. I swear I could hear it whistling through the air as it clipped the fingers of my hand and continued unimpeded. CRACK. Rake handle to the forehead.... Yes, it is exactly like in the cartoons. Yes, it is also possible to see stars like in the cartoons, but instead of a neat coronet its more like glitter on the inside of your eyeballs which makes it extremely hard to balance, much less stand upright. Once the celestial bodies faded, I did the only logical thing possible.... I looked around to see if anyone had witnessed my experiment. Nope, I got lucky... To this day I will flip over rakes if I see them laying tines up. Hoes also... I never experimented with them, merely extrapolated the probable outcome. Sometimes I think if someone wanted to 'off' me, all they would have to do is hand me some tap dancing shoes and point me to the nearest mine field... OK, keep them comming gents !! I am supprised that the (ex)military poeple out there dont have a good boot camp/training story to tell... Bernard

Sounds like a workable design IF the ladder is 28 feet extended, not colapsed.... I would recommend 2 braces from the existing roof rack instead of one; it would be MUCH stronger. Also, consider 2 vertical somethings on the cross member to keep the ladder from shifting from side to side, and a rubber bed inbetween to keep things from rattling. Make sure you post pics of it !! Bernard

Don't sweat it X2P Thats the best 'fix' there is !! I wouldn't have known it if I hadn't seen the bracket when I pulled the tranny to do the clutch... Had to pull it to remove the 4x shifter, looked at it and said "WTF ? Oh, I get it..." Now I expect to see some really cool pics ! Sounds like you had fun down there on the farm, wish I had that kind of access.... Bernard

A crows foot wrench w/or w/out a universal on it may get you in there... I cant really visualize the exact spot, but that may be the answer... GL !! B

Were you pushing down on the shifter when you tried to get 4wl or neutral ? There is a lock out bracket so you cant easily shift to 4wl, keeping foolish people from spraying the innards of their transfer case all over the road... Bernard

I get the feeling your issue is sensor/ecu related. Which, what I don't know. As mzX says, run the ecu codes to see if it says anything. Then it may not hurt to reset it. (both these processes are detailed at the top of the garage forum). While dirty injectors may not be part of the issue, better performance and gas milage is always nice. I prefer Redline Injector Cleaner and use it in all my vehicles. Good luck, and keep us posted... Bernard

Hey there Snowgirl ! I'd ask you to describe 'losing steam' better. Does it kinda bog, shudder or blubber ? Does it get better at higher/lower RPM ? Does it change if you give it more/less gas at the same RPM ? It it on the flat, up hill, all the time ? I think you get the picture... The more info or corolations you can supply, the better we can help; there are some VERY knowledgable here. Fuel filter is a possibility... Is it auto or manual tranny ? When was the last tune up. Have you ever used and fuel injector cleaner ? We'll get to the bottom of this yet Bernard