vengeful

They're manufactured by Ingalls. They're called the FastCAM alignment bolts. AC sells them, and they're all of $35 a set. They won't effect your shipping costs at all. You can also have them mark the package as Made In USA to avoid Duties.

The bushings have 120,000 miles of salt, dirt and abuse on them. They're worn out. I am 100% completely happy that I bought the lift, and do not regret it a bit. It is highly recommended that you replace the shocks and struts at the same time, as well as the strut mounts, bearings, etc. You'll also need to get 2 sets of the Camber Adjustment bolts to get the front end back in alignment. I ended up spending about $800 when all was said and done on parts.

Holy bananas! Where have you been!? Welcome back, good to see ya, etc etc. Right now, my truck rides like poo, but that's because my rear shocks are shot, and my bushings are, well...nearly nonexistant. When I first got the lift, I loved it. It was great. Stiff, but not too stiff. Still had great dampening and it wasn't a rough ride at all.

Mine locks the hatch, but not all the doors. I think that the newer ones locked the doors. That could be used as like a failsafe if you lost the remote.

It's a mud-bog/swamp truck. There's no need to steer one! Just floor it straight through the mud. LOL.

Hehehe...I've got those on my Pathy. Different strobe bulbs though. Those strobes are crap. Same power supply though. It's awesome!

LOL. I didn't really notice any significant gain in fuel economy either, however, I have noticed that it coasts a lot smoother, and holds speed better. Less rotating inertia. Also, my front driveline is much happier.

Holy Penile Inadequacy Complex, Batman!

Please don't shout.

Try posting this on TNX. http://www.thenewx.org.

If it isn't the VSS, you can always bring it back. :idea:

No, Alex told you that there is one 10mm bolt holding it in. You undo that bolt, and it comes out.

IIRC, he bought it from some guy who "thought he needed it" and pretty much only used it on trips to Aspen/Vail. Check this thread for more information.

No. It's fine. I replaced mine in my 99 at 102k, and it still looked pretty dern new.

Gee Dean....why not rub it in even more that you've got the coolest Pathy headlights in America.

With a relay, they'll perform even better! Very cool. I'm thinking of getting the Bi-Xenon ones to have the HID high-beams as well, since I do a lot of night-time desolate highway driving, and it's nice to see as far ahead as possible.

Nice....one more thing to add to the never-ending list.

Very possible, however, like has been said, it is recommended that you just use the N/A VG33 as the M60 is only good for 20hp, and the extra hassle isn't worth it. Here's a couple links from someone who did this in a Hardbody: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...art=1&vc=1&nt=2 http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...131#82410576131

Welcome to the board! Congrats on the new purchase. First of all, your KS code is inconsequential, and it will not trigger the MIL by itself. What is the actual code triggering for the EGR Malfunction? It's possible that one of the tubes is simply kinked or pinched. The rear end whine is probably due to improper backlash in the gears or worn out friction plates/discs in the LSD. I would have that looked at by a gear/differential specialist ASAP, because you don't want it to blow up on you, as that would set you back a pretty penny! Don't forget to add your location to your profile.

*ulp* :X

Trust me...if it is his wife, it's worth it!!!

Ok, all you Diesel gurus out there. Here's a new member with a real problem. Let's help him get his rig sorted! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=0entry167055

First of all, welcome aboard Eddie. Diesel R50s are something we all dream about, but never hear about! Unfortunately, I have very little experience with diesels. I'll post a link to this thread in our Diesel Tech section so you get some exposure from some of the members with the knowledge about Diesel engines.

The black bumpers are metal, too.

$15k is high, but for an 03 LE, it's not terribly off. I paid $15k for my 99SE in 02 (holy crap I've had it for 4.5 years!) with 30k miles on it. It was perfect in every sense of the word. Clear title, no accident history. Meticulous maintenance record, etc etc. BB Retail was $23k when I bought it. Since the shop is letting you take it to have it checked out, bring it to the best body shop within 100 miles (other than the one that did the work), and have them check for any sort of hidden damage. At 15k miles, you won't have to deal with any sort of mechanical issues. It's young enough that even if it was neglected, any permanent damage that was done is minimal. If everything checks out, I'd start the negotiations at $12,000. Though, he said he'd probably go cheaper than the original $15k. Find out his best offer, and determine a reasonable counter offer that is lower than what you really want to pay for it, but will get you what you want to pay. It's essentially a Rebuilt vehicle, correct? The NADA Trade-In value is $18,500 with those low miles. If it was properly fixed, there will be no difference in driveability than with a non-wrecked one.