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Kingman

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Everything posted by Kingman

  1. I thought about that after I posted
  2. I hope it's not the injectors. If it starts acting up again, I want to raise the idle from 800 in drive to 1200 and see if that changes anything, and continue raising the rpms until it stops sputtering or dieing if 1200 isn't enough (idles at 1300rpm in park). Then wouldn't it just be a matter of air supply or the amount of fuel it's getting? I think if this, because the Classic Cherokees with the 4.0 have a pretty common problem of idling like crap and very long start times after sitting due to a the fuel pump getting weak, and the fuel pressure regulator. My mom's is suffering from one of these. At low rpm's, doesn't run so hot, but when you hit the gas, the pump picks back up and supplies sufficient pressure to run the engine.
  3. It does, but I couldl hear it going loud and strong when it was acting up. Could you hear yours as well?
  4. Did a lot of driving today, didn't act up once. We'll see how long it stays like this... I don't even know what the Plenum is?
  5. Drove it to school today, didn't act up. Thermostat froze shut though, overheated within a few miles. Then finally opened up and I could get to school. I forgot to replace the water I had put in the radiator when I replaced that bypass hose not too long ago. Whoops! Strangely, didn't act up at all....
  6. I have a whole thread about my experience with that stupid sensor. What this is doing is much different than what happened when my sensor went out.
  7. Grandpa's JGC does the same thing when it's really cold out. Been doing it like that for years now
  8. Yeah, glorified electronic carb. Yup, it runs smooth as silk. At idle, I can mash it and it revs perfectly. When it died on my driving down the road today, I did think it was the fuel pump because it was running perfectly fine, then at 20mph, I barely hit the gas to accelerate and bam it died. Then it wouldn't start, then it kinda wanted to (with the clattering and what not) and then next try, started right up.
  9. Damn power was out for 4 and a half hours! Saw quite a few accidents today... Anyways, fuel filter was replaced the day before I posted this thread. Funny thing, after I came up here and posted that the code 44 showed up, I went back down to park it, and it wouldn't start. Just wouldn't start, for about 10 min. Then, randomly, it started. I smelled under the hood, and yeah, some smell of gas was there, but it wasn't too bad really. I can also hear the pump loud and clear. I'll try the key thing if it dies, I don't have a reason to drive tomorrow as there's no school, so we'll see But the strange thing is, it quit wanting to die at idle and now it wants to die when I hit the gas. But only sometimes? The entire time I drove it today, it didn't act up at all idling in drive, but it died that one time out of no where.
  10. Not that I can tell, no. Just pulled code 44 ECCS Normal Operation. What's the difference between this and code 55 No Malfunction???
  11. It does indeed sound sensor related. Just because of how it suddenly starts up fine. When it died, and sounded like it wanted to come back to life for a few seconds, I heard what sounded like valves clattering and what not, and of all the times this thing has died on me since I've owned it, that is something I have never heard it do. My timing belt is 10,000 miles old... Brand new Magnaflow cat, and muffler.
  12. UPDATE: No longer just doing it in drive at idle. Cruising along, about 20mph, hit the gas a little, cut out and died. Pulled it over, did the same thing as before...cranked and cranked, then started right back up, sputtered a little, and then ran fine. Hmmmmm...
  13. I've ran it to 1/8 of a tank before, NEVER below. I dont trust it enough for that. Yeah, I kept an eye on my alternator voltage this whole time, and it's at a steady 14, and drops to 12 when it's cranking, then right back up to 14. So I think that's fine. The cap and rotor are new as well. It does, for him at least. Little ricer Honda car, lowered and blew out his headlight and tweaked his bumper. He hit my hitch. And it's SNOWING down here before Christmas!
  14. Alright so, it died in me again today at a stop light, only this time it wouldn't start back up. I had it in neutral, and switched to drive to go, and it cut out and died, causing someone to rear end me. No damage to my truck, his didn't fare quite so well, no one was injured. All it did was keep cranking and cranking, and a little sputter here and there. Then, bam, it started right back up and ran perfectly fine the rest of the way home. I didn't smell any unused gas or anything. I'm thinking maybe its not getting the gas...? I let it idle in drive with the ebrake pulled for almost a half an hour, and it didn't sputter once. And it's never done it when the engine is cold, either. Only when fully warmed up...
  15. It has an issue with sputtering a little bit when i press in the brakes hard and release them, that's why I thought this was related to the problem I had before, which is why I pulled the ebrake at a stop so I wasn't using the actual brakes to see if it stopped sputtering, which it didn't. When this happened I looked extremely closely over every single line, and couldn't find a leak anywhere Brakes thread Full tune up was done in July, and I put new NGK Platnums in when my temp sensor went bad since it fowled the crap out of the old ones. That was in early October. I raised my idle myself. The engine makes an obnoxious noise when it idles too low, which it was idling at 400rpm a long while back. Lately when the engine is cold it idles at 1000rpm and doesn't seem to run as good as usual. When it's warmed up, the idle raises. I think that alone is weird, because I thought engines idled higher when cold and lower when warm... Where would I find this...?
  16. Hmmm...It's been raining, A LOT today. Now, usually my truck idles at 700-800 rpm in drive, and 1300 in park when warmed up. So here's the issue. Driving home from school today, I was idling at a stop light, and suddenly it started sputtering and the revs were dropping way down to nothing and then back up, then died. Started right back up in neutral, ran fine with one tiny little sputter. Put it in drive, immediately started sputtering, and the light turned green. Gassed it, and to my surprise, took off just fine with barely any sputtering at all. The next stop light, it didn't do it. Idled fine. Next stop light, did it again, but didn't die. Put it in neutral, the rpms raised, and it ran smoothly. That was the only time it idled fine after the first time this happened. Now it won't idle in drive, and dies almost. I checked my MAF sensor (cleaned 2 months ago) and the wires are snug. All my plug wires are clean, dry, and securely connected. The power wire to my dizzy is secure. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday. Just now I started it up, pulled the ebrake, put it in drive, and hurried to the tale pipe before it died. Exhaust seems fine, not smelling funny or anything. I'm wondering if there's anything underneath my truck that would mess something up if it gets wet? Something electrical. Or is this vacuum? I couldn't find any leaks, and it was so sudden, so... I searched around, but I couldn't find anything really that fit what's going on. Any ideas? EDIT: I thought this was related to my brake vacuum issue, so I pulled the ebrake a few times and it didn't change anything at all
  17. Don't really know what would make the engine run colder, unless your guage is mis-reading. The temp sensor only deals with how much gas to give the engine. As far as I know, there isn't anything electrical that deals with the engine temperature its self. Oh, and it could be possible your choke is sticking a little because of the cold weather...
  18. Coincidental, or we're on on to something
  19. Did your truck start acting up before that or suddenly with the temp change?
  20. This is what mine did when the temp sensor already noted freaked out. It was telling the ECU it was in the antarctic, so whenever throttle was given, the ecu would DUMP gas into it, and flood it, causing it to sputter and what not. At higher RPM's, the engine could keep up, because naturally it was requiring more fuel. Think of it as the engine is idling, but the ECU thinks it's floored, so it's dumping way too much fuel in there. Though this could be a multitude of things really, vacuum, ignition, fuel issues, LACK of fuel, too much fuel, o2 sensor (likely), MAF sensor, etc. Also, what's the temperature outside? That's what threw the towel in on my sensor finally, being going from 68* to 35*
  21. Whoops, I missed the model year with the "e"
  22. I found some that hang on the top of the glove compartment door for $0.69 at costless Cheap plastic ones, but they work, especially if you glue some rubbery foam to the bottom so drinks don't rattle and slide around There's also a write up about installing a center console from an early Grand Cherokee on here somewhere, 2 cup holders. A little modding, and it works.
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