tekazgtr1984
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Posts posted by tekazgtr1984
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No love for the R50...
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The low-beams are D2R xenons. The high-beams (projectors) are 9005 halogens.
This might help:
http://www.sylvania....eplacementGuide
I'm not sure if it's the same for Qs made for Canada.
It's exactly the same, except the high-beams have the DRL module spliced in to the circuitry.
Thanks for the bulb number; now I know where to look.
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There is no relocation kit for the 3.5
Many people have tried many different setups and nothing has worked.
There is a kit for the xterra people have tried to fit on the pathy, but it has never worked out either and leaked like hell.
Only way right now is to get a machine shop design/machine an adapter for you. But that would mean big bucks.
There is no option out there for either the VG- or VQ-powered R50. Kinda follows the trend of minimal aftermarket support.
Not sure about quality. Looks like some cheap chinese/japanese performance part that they import by the thousands for only a couple bucks each. Not sure if I would trust something so important to keep your truck running that only costs $38.
These two words don't belong together. Remember what you're driving.
Cheap Chinese parts, on the other hand, are a dime a dozen.
But I digress. I have the Xterra kit sitting up in the attic, which I had attempted to install in March of '09. Here's the write-up:
R50 VG33E oil filter relocation kit
WOT, you mentioned something about designing your own custom sandwich plate. I think that would solve the issue I had with my kit. I'm not sure if that would apply with the VQ35DE but I'm sure it's similar.
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My car is actually from florida and I dont have DRL's
But it's still your high-beam bulb, right?
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This is incredible! Thanks for posting.
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I would expect between 4"-4.5" of lift with the WJ 3" coils. You can always cut them down a little more to get the truck lower. They aren't to stiff either. I prefer the ride over the stock coils.
4-4.5" seems right on the money to match up the 4" SFD front. Now I just need to figure out if Old Man Emu makes stock height coils with a higher spring rate.
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Like Pezzy said, the one pictured looks like that for the WD21 ('89-'95) Pathfinder. This is how it should look for the R50:
It can be kept all black powdercoated but it can also be painted to match the body. As Pezzy also mentioned, there will be a gap on your '98 as the bumper won't mount up right flush on the pre-facelift R50's. That can be solved with weather stripping, though.
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It is a DR2 bulb. 6000 looks perfect white.
I tried 8k in my qx4 and it looked blue and "cheap" to me
EDIT: sorry your asking about the highbeam, I changed mine to silverstar bulbs but I forget the type of bulb
So you were able to switch the bulb for the DRL/high-beam? But the DR2 bulb is for the low-beam/halogen?
TooQForYou: agreed, xenon is the only way to go.
But the high-beams aren't xenon projectors, just regular halogen, too?
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This is some pretty sick work!
Well done. I envy the fact you have diesels down under.
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You'll probably save money in the end if you go with a locker or LSD. You'll be blowing CV axles left and right if you weld your front diff, regardless of the terrain on which you drive your R50.
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My assumption is they are of the xenon/HID type but I'm having trouble trying to figure out what kind of bulb is used. I want to switch to a higher kelvin (K) to match the lowbeam which is probably somewhere between 6000-8000K, and have something more bluish-white than the OEM yellow colour (4300K?).
Thanks!
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I have a near mint grey one in my '98. The only issue is shipping to the US...
Even with the tint, it's still nice to have the shade. I only take it out for camping.
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Out of the four options you listed in the poll, I'd go with the Silverado/Sierra 2500HD, only because I know five people who have them (ranging from '04-'09) and swear by them, my uncle being one of those people. He's put over 150,000 km on his '05 since buying it in early '07, and raves about it. He's used it to tow his fifth wheel and his snowmobile/ATV trailer.
Just me two cents.
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Fan clutch would be my guess. But don't you mean when the fan goes off the sound goes away?
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and you did the warn hubs as well? does sound worth the effort
Definitely worth it in every way. Warn hubs are one of the best mods for the R50, hands down.
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Could someone post pics? The ones Marcel posted from back in the day don't want to load anymore.
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I like the new rig, I LOVE the 3.5 in my 02 maxima. pulls hard in the car, but I think it has more power in the maxima?? either way, looks good!
Thanks! It's definitely a big change from the '98 but in this case, change is good.
The VQ35DE is a good engine; don't get me wrong, I'm still a huge fan of the VG33E.
The power is much more noticeable, especially on the highway when passing. I'm not sure what the power rating is in the '02 Maxima but I'll bet it's tuned differently based on the platform (Maxima, Altima, Z33, V35, R50, etc.)
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Just some stupid inner city club kid on Xtasy, who's friends decided to dump him naked in the woods as a joke.
Fake!
+1.
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Thanks a lot. I appreciate all of yall's help
No worries.
If you plan on really wanting to lift your rig (>3") definitely talk to shift220 about his SFD kits.
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Yea the 4" SFD will give you exactly 4" in the front. So what I would do is measure the rear stock fender height, compare it to the front and figure out how much lift you would need in the back to make them even. Then I can send you some WJ adapters and its an easy install!
Sweet, thanks! I'm hoping for an even stance, with as little rake as possible (equal to, or greater than stock). Do these WJ coils offer 4" of lift in the rear?
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Nice QX4. Like that color. So, keep us posted ono the status of the Pathy (I say this because if you end up parting it out, doubtful, but if you do, I got dibs on the driver side fender).
Jose
Oh, it's a write-off. But that only means it will be bought out by my insurance company. That means it has to be a complete vehicle when it gets taken. I will be removing all the aftermarket parts and replacing them with OEM. That means I won't be able to part out the truck. But I'm pretty sure you wouldn't rust a rusted out driver side fender, anyway.
There are parts I will be selling in the near future, so stay tuned for a thread in the Parts For Sale section.
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OP: thanks for the update. You might want to look into Bilstein rear shocks over Pro Crap. I've put my Bilstein 5150's through the ringer and they're still smooth as butter.
I am also very interested to see your plans for custom front suspension. I've always been a little disappointed with the lack of decent aftermarket stuff for our rigs, namely the front suspension.
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It stays in place quite nice. I have been checking it daily because I am paranoid that it will fall off, but it hasn't budged.
Cool. Paint that sucker black and it'll look practically OEM.
I don't think its running rich. It seems to run fine. Can't really give a fuel efficiency comparison with all the snow we have been having. 4WD in combination with cold seems to suck a lot of gas.
4WD alone is bad enough even in summer weather. But I'm certain us R50 owners didn't buy our rigs because they sip fuel.
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I paid $106 cash for a 24' of 2x6 tubing.
I paid $40 for the pieces of 2x4 because I didn't have time to pick up a length because I was in a hurry due to the snow piling up.
So $26.5+$40 + the material for the tire carrier, so about $45 or less.
$111.5 + a few new longer bolts here and there, $10.
1/2x3 hot rolled for the bumper mounts. $25
Trailer hitch receiver from princess auto $8
2 cans of truck bed liner $25
And the most expensive piece, the toggle clamp. $60
So about $239.5
and 11 hours work
A one-of-kind rear bumper for under $250?! Uh, can you say 'score'?
Awesome work BTW.
Horrible weekend...
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Maxima really puts the VQ to good use. Especially when it's mated to a 6-speed!
I'd like to throw on a few bolt-on mods. It'd be nice to open up some more power, of which the VQ already has gobs...