jason

thanks for the reply

Is there some special kind of paint to be used on aluminum wheels? What kind of preparation, priming, or finishing is involved? I plan on cleaning with a solvent and wire brush, but is there some sort of base coat or top coat I should use to prevent chipping/insure adhesion before I paint the wheels black?

Most pics I've seen on the forum of people with 3" body lifts have a 3" hole between the rear bumper and I believe it looks hideous. Since the lift kit does not mention anything about the rear bumper, I figured it would have to be a custom job. But, a couple of weeks ago I was removing my trailer hitch and decided to remove the bumper and take a look. I found that there are already mounting holes on the bumper and on the frame that will allow you to move the bumper up exactly 3" and bolt it back on. You will need to buy two bolts, I'm not sure which size, I just used two of the ones that held the trailer hitch on. Also I had to remove the license plate mount, so I just ziptied the license plate back on for the time being. It seems to me that Nissan engineers had the body lift in mind. I realized after my post-body-lift electrical fan crapped out on me, that I COULD put the stock fan back on. I know you're thinking "What about the fan shroud?" Well, the fan shroud has a detatchable piece on the bottom of it that when removed allows for PERFECT clearance after a 3" body lift.

Exhaust manifold studs?

How do you know?

Aren't you located in some sort of British/UK/Australian/New Zealand type country where thay are available to the general population? I thought I remembered reading a post where clear corners were available to anyone living in a country whose inhabitants speak english with some sort of accent, but not here in the states. CMIIW. <--Correct Me If Im Wrong. I just made that up. Hah. Shipping would be a biotch.

...I get fifty bucks just for donating a million potential children, and that only takes about two and a half minutes...

Wow. A guy from some Jeep forum recently died due to a similar act of negligence. A tow hook smacked him right in the back of the head. You should be more careful man...

Dingo: I am running one older rockford amp; something like 200 watts. As of now it is running to all four of my mid-range speakers and my cap (1 farad) is just taking up space, not hooked up. The RCA wires are RIGHT NEXT TO the power wire, which after reading the crutchfield article I will: A)Check the ground wire to the amp (problem showed up post-amp-installation) B)Re-wire RCA's on the other side of the vehicle, opposite power wire. C)Get really pissed off if I have to do any more than that due to the fact I am lazy. By the way I don't any aftermarket ignition system or anything of the like.

I have this really irritating problem where the sound of the engine comes through the speakers. It's like a constant squeal, and the pitch gets higher when the R.P.M.'s increase. Any thoughts...?

yeah, I went a few times. just to fool around in the huge mud puddle for a while, I got high-centered on a rock and had to be towed off sideways. my mud flap ripped off, sucked. i think Mr. Pickles and Mr. Jim have been there as well. pretty fun place.

That puts me at about 350 miles/tank. At this rate, the repair should pay for itself in 28 weeks. Yesssssss.

So last week I finally said screw it and paid $125.00 to get my broken exhaust manifold stud drilled out. I got about 40 extra miles out of my gas tank this weekend loaded with camping gear and all the windows down on the highway. Anybody else see this much improvement? I was surprised, I didn't expect to see any change in gas mileage, just that irritating ticking sound to go away.

The rear end shot is my favorite. Hehe... :o < ("O" Face)

let's see it installed

Killvox, what is with your headlights? Do you have some sort of super-expensive light bulb inside them that requires tinting of the headlights to prevent theft? Don't get me wrong, I think it looks pretty tight, but what is that?

Ummm, welcome to a V6, cause is not a V8.. At most you're gonna get throaty from off-idle to maybe 2500-3000 rpms depending on exhaust, then from say 2000-4000 or so you get a nasty thrashing and rasp, followed in general high RPM's up to redline by a kinda banshee whail that starts around 3500 RPM and really opens up at 4500 or so and carries up to the line. I tell ya what, if you have a somewhat open exhaust, people start payiing attention when the RPM's climb. Its a sick beast, and if its healthy, most people kinda shudder. Good times. Wow. I had to read that reply six times before I finally understood what you were talking about. Mr. Pickles, were you drunk when you wrote that? 'Cause the first few times I read it I pictured a drunk guy babbling.

Before I put anything in there I connected the blue wire directly from the fan the positive battery terminal, and the black wire to the negative terminal (those are the only two wires out of the fan), and it turned on. How do I test the relay?

Okay I replaced the stock fan with an electric one last weekend, got the thermostat/relay combo from schucks. The employee told me to put the probe type sensor in the radiator hose, which I discovered was wrong once I let the engine heat up and THEN read the directions. The directions say put the probe in the radiator fins just below the hose. The fan still won't turn on. I checked the fuse, ground wires, and the fan. Everything's kosher there. My question is this: Is it possible that putting the probe in the hose and letting in run hot (about 3/4 up the temp guage, the coolant was boiling) caused damage to the thermostat? Or do I still have the sensor in the wrong place? Oh yeah, it's an adjustable thermostat, and I set it all the way down (80 degrees?). Nothin'.

Brand New Misfits The Used Finch Deftones A Perfect Circle-remixed

I did the google thing for you since I'm bored at work: http://www.pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1

That looks sick! That is the exact height/tires/look that I want. Well done.

Oops, sorry. The "2K+" through me off. Way off.

I used a dremel to grind down the inside perimeter of the white plastic thing, I think it's some sort of moisture guard. Then I fit 6 1/2's in there. It was pretty simple.

All of these "minor problems" are still problems that we would like to fix. Even though it's not an SAS or 350 swap topic, some of us still need help. I think that is the purpose of the forum. If the topic does not apply to you, you don't HAVE to respond.