Coucoui6

okay... last night i had a change to fix my sagging exhaust with a new 7" hose clamp and some smaller ones. the 7" was able to loop around my rear frame and a mid section pipe. now my exhaust is not going to be an issue anymore. but was that the true cause of my clunking should... not sure. since i was down there...i use a large flat head screwdriver and attempted to inspect the upper trail arm (control arm) that is attached to the top of the rear axl. i was able to shift the arm quite a bit more on the bushing to the frame. so maybe i will need to change that also. i do know that my panhard rod is okay... i took that off just 2 wks ago and the bushing was fine. thanks coucoui 6

you may have a good point... i will take a closer look after double checking my exhaust out. thanks.

i dont think and extra passenger or load will effect the clunk if the carrier is the cause. wouldn't it just clunk all the time.????

i dont have the greatest suspension but i dont think i'm bottoming out. i have a 2-3" suspension lift in the rear.

glad to be in socal where there's not salt and snow on the ground!!! but i know the beach can also rust out a car but not that bad. with that said ... i do have some rust, because my pathy was from ohio.

i do have and after market cat back exhaust done by a muffler shop. i was looking at that yesterday after i posted my tread. i thought the top hump of the rear sway can hit a pipe. i did not see any obvious metal rubbing marks but i will recruit my wife to help bound on the rear of the pathy to see it its a possibility... now some of my exhaust hangers are broken. i've use small hose clamps to hold the tail pipe up in place. i may need to re inspect it. or use some more support. thanks. coucoui6

i have a strange clunking sound in the rear of my pathy for sometimes now. the sound only happends went i've had 2 adult people or my car is a bit on the loaded side. i cant seem to find it. i looked at all the suspension parts and every think looks good. nothing is loose... the sound is comming from the center rear. it would clunk every time my path go over a speed bump. it really sounds like its coming from the rear diff area. i know this is a pretty hard question to give an answere. thanks, coucoui 6

here is my solution too finding a small leak on an old motor. i first do a good pressure wash with alot to decreaser cleaner. then everything looks good and the leaks are easier to find. my 2 cent.

never mind... i flipped the bushing around and just tightened the nut until it stopped.

okay .... this install is very straight fwd. just unbolt all the attached locations and put on the new bushing and re-install. but here is my question? how tight should i turn the 1" nut at the end of the bushing? if i tighten the nut on the compression rod to the point that the washers touch the metal bushing sleeve then the new urethane bushings look very compressed ie. the rubber is bulging out of the sides. so should i back it off so the bushing is just slightly compressed, half way compressed or all the way with bulges? see if it is all the way then i know that the washers will be touching the metal sleeve and prevents any unwanted shifing... and i know that is the goal for sports cars but what about my pathy? now for sure? any experience would help... thanks coucoui 6

looking closely at one of your flex pictures on another tread is what prompt my question. i noticed that the rear was flex out to the max and then i was very surprised to see the front sways still on. WOW. i thought maybe i should just leave my front alone even on a trail. thanks for the input.

okay... i guess... the detroit complete assembly it is!

okay.... i know the lock right is for open diff but can i change my LSD so i can use the lock right or am i suck using the complete detroit locker assembly? 4x4parts.com sell the lock right for 279.00 and the detroit assembly for 595.00? maybe, i should just stick with the LSD and stay out of the big boys sand box. This line of questioning, shows that i've never worked on a diff. before. but i am very handy and fast learner with cars. and i can read a manual!

okay... after all the search on this forum... i've decided to go a head and remove my rear sways for more flexing. but in the past i've usually disconnected my front for off road trips but since my front is only a stock IFS, with the t-bars cranked for lift, will removing the front sways be of true benefit like the rears?

i have a 95 pathy... xe-v6. manual tranny. need more tractions! would like to add lockers to my rear. thanks.

dude ... thanks for the link.

i'm trying to find the compression rod or tension rod polyurethane bushings now.... i am having a tuff time on the web. is there an other name under energy suspension or a part number? thanks?

i got stock replacements and there falling apart now and its have not been 1 year yet. don't get stock oem bushings for this part.

yozsi... your pictures are awesome... great reasons to take off the sways and toss them! mike vancein... cant wait to see what you did? i do most of my driving on the road and i do perfer a to keep it the way it feels now on the road. see my other cars are all modified sports cars. 1. dinan supercharged M3 2. modified miata for autocross. so i want to be able to have best of both world situations. thanks. coucoui 6

kiwipete, you have some very nice pictures ... i like your rear end flexing... do you have a picture underneath so i can see how you tucked your rear swaybar out of the way? i really would like for my rear to flex alot more. i guess i just need to get the quick disconnect linkage from 4x4parts.com or buy some stock ones so i can take the links on or off. like i stated earlier... my current stock ones are rusted on by the top bolt. and i've already stripped out trying to remove it. next thing to do is cut it out.

also the obvious process is to try it? but my end link nuts are rusted on and i've stripped them trying to remove it. i need to cut them off next and get a new end link. so i don't know the answer to my question.

okay, i know if you disconnect one side is all you need? but disconnecting both sway bar links is the best. it will release the rear axle even more. but here is my question? if you disconnect both swaybar links at the beginning of a trail, will that cause your swaybar to hang down to the point of caution? ie. hitting a rock with the swaybar at the link attachment point?

bro... your paragraph was very difficult to read. i believe that the 93 pathy is the same as the 94-95 pathy. is your bush guard bent slightly? regardless, i am sure a little modification will go along way to help your fitment issue. hope that helps.

thanks for the picture... so how far does your tube stick out beyond the doors? thanks again. coucoui 6