alexrex20

sorry, i misread your post. i confused you with Justin517, with whom we DO have different wheels! Justin, i'll trade you my wheels once you machine the center opening of your wheels.

what is this ice/snow you speak of? <-- from south texas

DOT5 is not compatible with our braking systems. use only DOT3 or DOT4, or even DOT5.1, but not DOT5! back to the oversize tire issue with ABS... ABS computers use wheel speed sensors to determine if and when to start pulsing the brakes. if you up- or downsize your tire diameter, you effectively decrease/increase the actual vehicle speed in comparison to the wheel speed that the ABS is receiving. there will be a nominal change in when the ABS engages, because it's all based on a percentage speed differential among the wheels. if you upsize your tire OD, it will take more lockup (larger wheel speed differential) before the ABS actually engages; and vice versa. the difference is, like i said nominal. the real issue is when you start putting different size tires from axle to axle. i don't see why we'd do it on 4x4s, but some 2WDs like the stance. in such a case, the ABS will be extremely sensitive because even without tire lockup, the computer is already seeing a speed differential among the wheels, and will thus engage much quicker (sometimes even before any lockup occurs). regardless, my ABS-equipped Pathy has nonfunctional ABS, lol. on the last road trip, my LR wheel bearing went bad at Yellowstone Nat'l Park. Thankfully they have an auto shop within the park. they were able to replace my wheel bearing in a few days, but because i drove it a one or two miles back to the shop, with the bad bearing, it had welded itself and the ABS reluctor ring onto the axle. to remove the bearing, the reluctor ring had to be cut off. to wait for the Nissan-specific part would be another week, so we just had them install the axle without it, thus disabling my entire ABS system. it's been 2 years since then and i've really no intention of getting it fixed. my brakes aren't powerful enough to lockup the 31in tires anyway, unless it's wet out. it almost makes me drive more careful. that, and ABS doesn't do crap in the sand/mud.

well, i had to remove the center cap.

i have very different wheels than you, but this is what mine looked like with stock wheels: and yes, it is very easy to enlarge the center opening of a typical wheel.

yes, like laxman said, those wheels will need to be machined to fit the hubs. i have a '00 Pathy (3.3L) and my stock 16in wheels fit over my hubs.

i have 265/70 tires on my 00 and they used to rub the plastic inner fender just a bit when you have the wheel cranked.

a bit off topic, but dean, do you have pics of your interior switches for your lockers/compressor and any other doodads you have fitted? i'm having a hard time deciding where i want to install my gadgets.

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ya, i still kinda want to. the only thing stopping me is the hail damage that would have to be repaired if i wanted to paint it the right way. or, i could just do it the ghetto way because it's just gonna get pin striped again!

is my red really that rare/nice? here's another shot of the FJ in Sandstorm

it might be the lighting in the pic that makes it look washed out. i've seen a few in person and it's a bit more 'authentic.' anyway, opinions are exactly what i'm looking for!

can anyone photochop that onto an R50?

this is the color i want to paint my R50. what do y'all think?

i got mine from amazon for $126 shipped. and i'm not in the "trade."

since post count is obviously your standard for knowledge, it makes sense that you wouldn't know what you're talking about - what with only 125 posts. laxman has a 3.3L not a 3.5L. but engine size notwithstanding, a simple heat shield isn't going to do much to keep the charge air nice and cold. if it's in the engine compartment (shielded or not), it's going to be roughly the same damn temperature. the only way you'll see a noticeable drop in IAT is if you pull in air from in front of the radiator, or down low in the fender/wheel well outside of the engine bay. of course, you would know this because i'm sure you sit on your computer all day and measure our post cocks against your own.

not as clean as mine btw, where did you get the filter and how much? is it a kit designed specifically for our truck? and who wants my K&N drop-in (free+shipping) if i get a new filter?

i agree with Pezzy. my rear hitch takes all the impacts in stride, and i've learned to brace myself for and anticipate the crunch and thunk. the only damage i've ever had was the 4-pin connector getting smashed because it was dangling too low. all the hits don't seem to have affected the receiver hitch in the slightest bit. the clearance issues notwithstanding, there's still the problem of cost. if you can get a used receiver for dirt cheap, then i guess it may be worth it to you. i think they bolt on via 6 or 8 bolts, at two points on the 'frame,' making the hitch a very secure and sturdy recovery point. it just seems a bit overkill to me to buy a receiver for the sole purpose of a rear recovery point. i know there are the factory slots in the frame which i'm sure are intended for tie-down purposes only, because they are higher up than the bumper and would surely cause the strap/chain to apply pressure on it. i do have bolt-on plates with slots in them, which are actually blocked by the receiver hitch; i think they are the factory rear tow and/or recovery(?) points. if you were going to spend the money on a receiver hitch for the sole purpose of rear recovery, may i suggest you get a custom tow bar fabricated? it could probably be done for the same cost or a fraction of it, and wouldn't necessarily have to rob that much of your rear clearance (if you don't include the actual receiver, just a recovery point for a shackle or D-ring). you would just need some square tubing or even C-channel or angle iron, and some heavy-gauge steel plate. if you knew how to weld and had a welder/cutter, all it would cost you is that of materials...

i wouldn't get a receiver hitch simply for a recovery point. all the designs that fit our Pathfinder stick out a ridiculous amount and greatly diminish your departure angle. if you do not tow, and do not plan on towing, but you do go wheeling, i strongly discourage you from getting a receiver hitch. i prefer closed recovery points. it gets rid of that hassle of making sure the strap does not slip/fall off in between tugs. closed recovery point + shackle = best setup, imo.

white would look stupid

for the rear, i just put the recovery strap directly into the receiver and use a grade-8 bolt to hold it in place (instead of the normal hitch pin). if you don't have a receiver you could probably just get a generic recovery hook/eyelet, but i'm not really sure there's anywhere to properly mount it; we don't really have a frame to mount anything to... as for the front, i can give you the two recovery points that i removed when i installed my ARB bumper. they mount to the front subframe via 3 big bolts (in preexisting holes which are also pre-tapped), and are pretty sturdy. i've been yanked out a few times by these.

those are 18s? anyway, looks great. i have 16in american racing Chamber (also Teflon). i think i would have gotten the ones you got, if i knew they existed!

they will fit in any factory R50 wheel. in fact, they'll fit in any wheel that fits on an R50 because for an aftermarket wheel to fit, it must clear the drive flange, which is the same diameter as the manual hub.

...

mine is painted flat black