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fleurys

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Posts posted by fleurys

    R50 Crosslink, Mid Skid and Rear Skid PreSale -Ends December 31st-

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Hey Fluerys, I see another good Canadian kid makin quality parts for the World, good on you. I have an ARB bumper and 3/8 inch aluminum front skid plate on my Pathy already, so the crosslink/oilpan/tranny plates seem to be the logical finish to the under chassis protection. Does the crosslink serve any other purpose other than a mounting point for the subsequent pieces of under armour?? Mine's now officially retired from work and is my toy but needs a lot of suspension work as its just plain wore out. I saw ur UHMW suspension blocks and have always wanted my Pathy's suspension to sit a little higher so I will ask you for your recommendations regarding coils/shocks/struts AND bushings, etc, to work in conjunction w/your lift blocks, pls. I would like to be able to get all the required parts together before wandering down to my local suspension dude and have him help me put it all in. Thx in advance & hope you and yours have a Happy New Year.

     

    Cheers, Bunchie in BC.

    Answered in PM.

    S.

    SKIDPLATES - R50 - Aluminium - Soon AVAILABLE

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    your how to vid's are great for a screw driver mechanic like me they help a lot and I will be getting a set of those skid plates soon I wish I would have seen your lift kits before I bought mine the way you threaded the spacer is fantastic I had a heck of a time putting my pathy back together alone if I had your spacers it would have made it so much easyer cant wait to see what you make next

    Thank you , that was the goal with the videos... I'm not very comfortable doing them yet, but i guess it will come with time. English is not my mother tongue and unfortunately it shows in the videos.

     

    As for the spacers, threading them has been the best feature ( i think). Like you saw yourself, re-installing the strut without this feature implies alot more fiddling then necessary...

     

    Stay tuned for more products for the R50!

    • Like 2

    mjotrainbrain's Build Thread

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Short update...

     

    The other day I lost control around a corner (luckily going slowly) and tapped a tree. There's some damage on the passenger's side front end but I have most of the parts I need sitting in the basement from the junkyard except for a headlight and a bumper cover. I'll post pics once I get a chance to install it all. I'm just going to leave the bumper damaged for now, as hopefully it will motivate me to upgrade it and as for the headlight, wow they're expensive!!! :wacko: So yeah, that's staying damaged until I find one in a junkyard (it still operates, don't worry). The fender is also gold, but that will have to do until I can have it painted and pinstriped in the spring.

     

    Anyway, this kind of ruined my timeline for getting some 32's and new wheels, so my new goal is to have that done by the time I go on spring break.

     

    Also, I'm having a real hard time finding anything that lays to rest the issue with manual hubs on R50's with Auto 4wd. The switch on mine has the options 2wd, Auto, 4Hi, and 4Lo. It sounds like I may not be able to use manual hubs due to the front half of the drivetrain needing to be engaged to do something involving a pump and the transfer case? I don't use 'auto' mode ever, so the concern of accidentally using it with the hubs unlocked doesn't apply to me, but I am concerned about this pump issue. If it's not 100% sure to be safe for me to use manual hubs on my Q I won't , but I would like to, as my winter mileage has set in at a nice 12mpg. :thumbsdown:

     

    The issue comes from the auto mode. When your hubs are unlocked, you cannot leave it on auto because of the way the transfer case works. Since it is a shift on the fly type, you can imagine what kind of carnage it would do if the transfer case was to engage the front while nothing is turning in front and that the rear is rolling at 50mph...
    That's it really...
    The hype came from the fact that at one point I assumed the mechanical oil pump for the transfer case was being activated by the rotation of the front driveshaft... It was finally proven that it is from the rotation of the rear (main) driveshaft..So there is no problem between the transfer case and manual hubs... simply have to use it with either 2wd unlocked and 4wd when locked....no more auto...
    then a nissan mechanic (morpheus) put that assumption to rest here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=475399
    • Like 1

    For Members with a SFD - Need Confirmation

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    I do not have a SFD installed neither did I found installation pictures of what I am looking for.

     

    In this picture, can someone confirm me that the some of the SFD blocks goes under there ?

     

    99032861-9012-44a7-a68b-203a83dfdba9_zps

     

    I know there is one block under the Sub frame near the tie-rod (on the left in the picture), but I just want to make sure there is also one that goes in the red circle... Does anyone have a few good pictures of this ?

     

    Tks.

     

     

    R50 Crosslink, Mid Skid and Rear Skid PreSale -Ends December 31st-

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Just to clarify, the crosslink would not work if you had a SFD?

     

    Actually, the Crosslink and even the mid skidplate would fit without modification. The 2 other plates would need to be customized. I already sold a front SFD skidplate to a few members here by special order. As for the rear, I did not do it yet but it should not be a problem. If you are interested, let me know by email or private message.

     

    Steve. (sfcreation<@>yahoo.com without the quotes)

    R50 Crosslink, Mid Skid and Rear Skid PreSale -Ends December 31st-

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by fleurys

    The Time has come...

     

    I'm offering you to be the first to receive my newborns. These new products will be available for the new year but exceptionally, I am offering them to the NPORA community first. Here's your chance to go offroad with a completely different set of mind knowing you're not going to bust an engine or trans oil pan or a front driveshaft, diff etc... This makes a huge difference between being stressed out and being zen during the trail.

     

    Like I mentioned on another post, even if you do not rock climb with your pathfinder, I have seen , more than once, a simple branch going through an oil pan during a trail. You can imagine how this can turn a nice trail day into a nightmare.

     

    I have 3 new products to offer. They are:

     

    1) Control Arm Crosslink. This item will serve two purposes.First to stiffen the front by linking both control arms, then to serve as a solid platform for the mid and rear skidplate. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post.

     

    2) 1/4" Aluminium Mid Skidplate. Connects on the sub frame in the front and to the crosslink in the rear. Protects Front diff and engine oil pan. YOU WILL NEED THE CROSSLINK TO INSTALL THIS SKIDPLATE. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post.

     

    3) 1/4" Aluminium Rear Skidplate. Connects on the crosslink in the front and to the trans. crossmember in the rear. Protects complete Transmission, Front Driveshaft, Front ujoints, Transfer Case.YOU WILL NEED THE CROSSLINK TO INSTALL THIS SKIDPLATE. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post.

     

     

    Listening to the members here, I have decided to offer everything either raw or Powder Coated. One very important thing to note is that raw aluminium is rarely free of scratches when the plates are delivered. This usually happens during the handling and transport before they even get to me. After a few complaints of unknowing clients, this is when I decided to powdercoat everything. The scratches are usually on the surface and not very deep. But it has happens once or twice where I needed to sand the plate before powdercoating it. This means that surface scratches will be present and if there is deeper ones, I will sand them in order to make them look better. So the RAW ALUMINIUM Option will possibly have surface scratches and/or sanding marks. There is not much more I can do on that subject :-)

     

    I have made a serious effort to lower my prices (with the design and also for this special one time only offer). SHIPPING IS FREE FOR USA AND CANADA.. So please consider this in your comparison with other products. It is most likely that the prices will be adjusted (read higher) when they get posted on my website in january 2017.

     

    For those who already bought my front skidplate, these new products are compatible with it.

    For those who already bought my crosslink in the past , then you will still be able to fit the mid and rear skidplates but you will need to drill new holes in them since the spacing is different between the old and the new crosslink. If you need more details, please send me a private message or get in touch by email at sfcreation<@>yahoo.com (without the brackets).

     

    The preSale is open from now to December 31st. The fabricating will start on January 9th (because of the construction workers winter vacation) and depending on the options taken, the first items will start shipping before the end of January. The shipping is insured and tracked. The tracking number will be communicated to you when your items ships.

     

     

    I will use this post to list the members that have ordered. It will be an easy way to confirm the items you ordered and also the state of the fabrication and shipping. Instead of updating everyone individually , I will post the state of the different steps in here.

     

    Finally, you can see a few of my trail test in the past on my personal youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/fleurys2.. I have been running these skidplates since 2010 and my truck never suffered any breakage from hits on rocks.. I know these are probably the best investment you can do to your truck if you go offroad.

     

    Procedure to ORDER:

    Send me EITHER a private message here or an email at : Sfcreation<@>yahoo.com (without the brackets) with the following information

     

    1) Full Name

    2) Your NPORA member name (ex: mine is fleurys)

    2) Full Shipping Address

    3) EMAIL ADDRESS that your paypal account is linked to. (This is where I will send the paypal invoice)

    4) QUANTITY and OPTIONS of the products that you want

    5)*** I only Ship to paypal confirmed address. Make sure that your shipping address is correct when doing the paypal payment***

     

    From there I will send a paypal invoice. Once paid I will add your npora name here, in this post, with the items your ordered and the status within 48 hours. In order to be part of this presale, the payment must be done before December 31st.

     

     

    NAMES OF LUCKY BUYERS:

    1) CORNPONE99 - 2 Stickers - Front Skid Powder coat - Mid skid RAW - Rear skid RAW - Crosslink RAW

    2) PISTE - Crosslink Powder Coated

    3) RICHMOND - Crosslink Powder Coated

    4) RANGERPATHY - Mid Skid powder Coated - Rear Skid Powder Coated - Crosslink Powder Coated

    5)

     

    BLACK = IN STANDBY

    ORANGE = IN FABRICATION

    BLUE = AT POWDER COATING STATION

    GREEN = SHIPPED (Check you emails for tracking number)

     

     

    Here are the details and price of the products:

     

     

    1) Crosslink 100$ RAW STEEL (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +15$)

    This Crosslink's primary function is to increase torsional stiffness of the unibody of your pathfinder. You will immediately feel the benefits of this with improved steering response and reduced body rattles.
    The second function of this Crosslink is to serve as a point of attachment for our mid and rear skidplates.
    Built from 3/16" steel all around and 5/16" Support tabs, this link will not break. It has been overbuilt in order to provide an unparalleled solid platform for our mid and rear skidplates. Recessed to the maximum, this crosslink is as high as possible in order to keep maximum clearance.
    13 Lbs

    IMG_0371%20-%20Copy_zps46cq1p5a.jpg

    IMG_0343_zps8nmc8bvr.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    2) MID skidplate 155$ RAW ALUMINIUM (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +20$)

    This skidplate will protect the very exposed engine oil pan and front differential. It attaches to the Sub frame in the front and to the re-inforced crosslink (sold separately) at the rear.
    Light and resistant, this plate will protect expensive drivetrain parts from rocks and off-road mishaps.
    It is independent from the front skidplate and does not requires it.
    PLEASE NOTE : The Control arm Crosslink is necessary in order to attach this skid plate. It is not included with it.
    1/4" 6061-T6 Aluminum
    Only 10 Lbs
    Bolt on installation - no drilling or cutting
    Powder coated black for a top notch finish as an option **
    ** SYMMETRIC AND FULLY REVERSIBLE- IT'S LIKE HAVING 2 PLATES IN ONE IF IT BECOMES TOO SCRATCHED ***
    What's Included:
    1x Skidplate
    2x 1/4" spacers ** To be used with the front plate , If present ***
    2x M10x1.25 Grade 8 Bolts and washers (front Bolts)
    2x 3/8"/16 Zinc plated Bolts and washers (rear Bolts)
    IMG_0376_zps1294luv0.jpg
    IMG_03519_zpscxu7qku8.jpg
    3) REAR SKIDPLATE 235$ (RAW ALUMINIUM + RAW STEEL (BRACKETS) (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +30$)
    This skidplate will protect the very exposed Transmission oil pan, Transfer Case and Front Driveshaft and Ujoints. It attaches to the re-inforced crosslink (sold separately) in the front and to the Transmission Crossmember at the rear.
    Light and resistant, this plate will protect expensive drivetrain parts from rocks and off-road mishaps.
    It is independent from the front or mid skidplate and does not requires it.
    PLEASE NOTE : The Control arm Crosslink is necessary in order to attach this skid plate. It is not included with it.
    1/4" 6061-T6 Aluminum
    Only 20 Lbs
    Bolt on installation - no drilling or cutting
    Powder coated black for a top notch finish as an option **
    ** SYMMETRIC AND FULLY REVERSIBLE- IT'S LIKE HAVING 2 PLATES IN ONE IF IT BECOMES TOO SCRATCHED ***
    What's Included:
    1x Skidplate
    6x 3/8"/16 Zinc plated Bolts and washers (rear Bolts)
    2x 3/16" steel Brackets
    IMG_0378_zpslq37kbbf.jpg
    IMG_0358_zpsolpndqlu.jpg
    For the installation part, I am working on producing a video where I will show how to install the whole sets of skidplates. It will be available before the plates ships. :-)
    • Like 1

    SKIDPLATES - R50 - Aluminium - Soon AVAILABLE

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Do you have an est on cost. I like the weight savings of aluminum vs steel.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    not yet, but will have next week. I am waiting for the powdercoating costs. Also, I will probably do a pre-sale here on npora before making them available on my website. This will make sure that the npora community gets the first ones delivered to them in january 2017

    • Like 1

    SKIDPLATES - R50 - Aluminium - Soon AVAILABLE

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by fleurys

     

    The aluminum skids at 1/4" thick do quite well actually. I have the older version of his front and mid skids, and they've done fine...added some new scrapes to them on Saturday, actually.

     

    Steve: I do have some questions about the rear skid...

    1. I presume this will work with your older crosslink?

    2. What's the mounting setup to the transmission crossmember? Is there another plate that connects to the cross member first, and if so, do it prevent the tail-end of the skid plate from bending up into the t-case? Asking because I'm curious to know if I can make this work with an SFD (noting to others that if you have an SFD, your crosslink will sit lower that the transmission crossmember).

     

    I noticed you're now just overlapping the front and mid plates to the diff crossmember, but thought I'd note that I liked your previous 'mid-plate' that provided separate front bolt holes for the mid skid. Not sure if this was the original design, but I bolted that piece directly to the crossmember (instead of the front skid sandwiching it with 4 bolts) so that I could remove the front skid without leaving the mid plate hanging there or otherwise needing to remove it. I imagine you can still replicate convenience with two more holes in each plate rather easily. If none of this description makes sense, I'll send you some pics.

    1) Yes and no... You will have to make new holes in the rear skidplate in order to attach it to the old crosslink. I made some changes for more torsion force in the new one, but it is basically the same idea. On the old crosslink, the holes were 14" apart, on the new one they are 18". So if you have wood working tools, you can work with aluminium and make new holes. I have also removed the welded nuts from the new crosslink in order to save cost and bring the price down. The bolts are also downsided to 3/8" instead of 1/2" like I used to ship.

     

    2) the mounting on the rear took most of my time as to what I was going to do considering the experience I have acquired with time and lots of offroad. I have settle for 2 brackets that wrap around the transmission crossmember. I went this way over making a bracket that would either bolt to the transfer case or sit right under. I did this because at the end, the stronger part of the transfer case is the bottom of it. So yes, in the event you sit the truck on a rock near the transfer case, the plate will bend and tuck itself under the transfer case hard spot.

     

    If I was to put a bracket, I could see either the bracket break and potentially become a spear-like object going through the TC, or if the bracket was to be attached via one of the transfer case bolts, I could easily see it break in two and then be stuck with oil coming out.

     

    The setup I choose uses all the strong point of the under carriage. Mind you, there is about 0.5" inch space between the end of the rear plate and the underside of the transfer case. So the bend will not be excessive and everything will be properly protected.

    As for the SFD setup, in order to have the plate sit flush underneath the transmission crossmember you would need a slightly longer plate and probably a bend in it to compensate from the 4" SFD drop as the crosslink would be sitting 4" lower. If you are interested with that I could design/fabricate you one... Just send me a private message and we can talk about it.

     

    yes , I now overlap the front over the mid skidplate. Again this is to bring cost down. It also makes it stronger since the mid skid is now full seated against the sub frame as of before it was bolted to a 3/16" steel plate that was bolted to the sub frame. The only down side of this is if you were to scrape the truck over rocks going in reverse... It could potentially create a spot were the skidplate would snag or hang, but being it's only 1/4" thick, I doubt it could become a real issue. For the fabrication time and material saving, i know it is worth it.

     

    Hope I answered everything you asked.

     

    Cheers.

    S.

    • Like 1

    SKIDPLATES - R50 - Aluminium - Soon AVAILABLE

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by fleurys

    Have you tested out the strength of the skids on rocks or any tough terrain? They must be significantly weaker than your steel front skid.

     

    Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

     

     

    Yes I have For a long time now... (by the way, my front is in 1/4" aluminium too, not steel.) ... Back in 2010 I was testing different approach of manufacturing the skidplates and I basically dropped the truck many times on them. I literally slide down on the skidplate, wheel off the ground. Here's a picture of one of my first beta test for a full skid. It was all in one piece ( I welded the front with the mid-rear),,

    CIMG1183.jpg

    CIMG1179.jpg

     

    CIMG1182.jpg

     

    There was a slight deflection like you can on the 3rd picture, but the plate had done it's job..Which is to take the hit and save your equipment. I have twin lockers on my rig and I am an avid rock climber with it..I have NEVER broken any parts (transmission pan, oil pan, trans, steering rack, etc.. due to hit because I had these skidplates..) If you listen carefully , near the end of this video (2:44), when I finally make it up there, you see and hear when I fully hit the rock with the skid. This hit was directly on the transmission and transfer case... no damage and drove right back home..

     

    Personally, I have seen many guys stranded in the woods simply because a tree branch just badly positioned on the ground went through the oil pan.. There is many thousands of dollars worth of items underneath our trucks.

     

    At the beginning of this all (when I was choosing the material for the skid, I did a sledge hammer test with 2 identical piece of material (square), one with 3/16" steel, the other 1/4" alu. I can honestly say the dents were the same on both.. So for me 1/4" alu is as strong as 3/16" steel, and the weight reduction, rust free attributes makes it a perfect material for these high end skidplates.

    • Like 2

    SKIDPLATES - R50 - Aluminium - Soon AVAILABLE

    in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders

    Posted

    It is unlikely. Simply because the chances of finding a 95 that is not rusted out in Qc in near impossible. I was lucky enough to find a npora reader to help me design the rear spacers, but designing a set of skidplate is a whole different kind of animal... There is no way i can do this remotely.

     

    I am not closed to the idea, but i doubt everything will line up so that i can have access to a good, not rusted, straight wd21 in the near future... Also , do you think there would be enough interest?

     

     

    Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk

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