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fleurys

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Posts posted by fleurys

  1. Yes... I let the thing rest inside a bath of metal rescue for 24 hours. That pretty much removed the rust but did not free the pin... I tried a few hits with the hammer...no go :-( So I decided to sacrifice it for the benefit of everyone here :-)...

     

    The circle in the middle is a thin steel plate that I removed with a screwdriver... simply pulling on it... looks like it was welded or something..not sure but it came out with little force. You can see on the picture the arm that is suppose to rotate and this aligns with the square opening to let the liquid go through... I tried rotating the pin from this side and it would not budge... ho well... time to find another... cheers.

     

    IMG_0841-L.jpg

    • Like 2
  2. I am trying to rebuild my fan coupling. Part of the reason I think it is not working like it should is that the metal spring that contracts and expand was rusted solid. I have since remove the rust but the middle `pin`where the spring coils in, is not turning... I have tried with a pair of plier to force it to turn, but it won`t budge...
    I am under the impression that it should be turning when the coil expand due to heat. I have since open up the coupling and I am stuck there... I don`t want to force it more than I have to until I can find some info, hopefully, from someone that has some experience with this...

    I want to get to the other side of the expanding coil so I can unstuck the rotating pin that is connected to the coil.(This is what you see on the first pic)... how can I remove what you see ... is it pressed in, screwed in ??

    IMG_0838%5B1%5D-XL.jpg
    IMG_0839-XL.jpg
    IMG_0840-XL.jpg

  3. After being part of R50 pathfinder family for so many years, Sfcreation is now looking to enter the R51 Pathfinder one. We will soon bring to market our 1", 1.5" front spacers and our 1",2",3" rear spacers. Now since the R51 pathfinder is IFS and IRS, of course the real height of the lift will be greater than the height of the spacers. This is where you come into play !



    2 options are available:


    1) If you have a pathfinder R51 and you live near my location (Ste-Catherine, QC), and willing to drive to it, You'll get the lift kit, and I'll install it with you! Reserve yourself a full day ! Measurements will also be taken for a full set of skidplates.


    2) If you are good with tools and are not afraid to use them, I'll send you all the items of the lift kits. You will need to install them, send the pictures and you keep it all.



    All the spacers have been made using suspension items from an R51 (struts, coils), but now we need pictures and real life data about the height in order

    to finalize the new product introduction.




    If you are interessted, please contact me at (info @ sfcreation . com) and send me some pictures of your R51. I am looking for clean and very little

    (if any) rusted R51. This pathfinder will be immortalized on our web site, facebook page, etc.. so it needs to look good !


    Je parle francais aussi.. donc aucun probleme avec ça !


    Steve.


    IMG_0836-L.jpg

    IMG_0837-L.jpg


    • Like 3
  4. if you can smell it, I would think it could be coming from the heater rad... I don't know the 3.3, but if they are easily accessible, I would try to bypass the heater rad simply by connecting the in and out hose. Then run it like this a few days and see if you are still losing coolant.... It could help you figure out where the leak is a bit...

    Cheers.

  5.  

    fleurys, I've read through all those posts and would appreciate clarification on a couple things. Am I correct in understanding that if the manual hubs are locked, then the atx14 CAN be used in AUTO (& 4Hi). I ask because the Auto mode is VERY usefull here in the Pacific NW. Our roads are wet & slick nearly all the time. I can tell within minutes that I have it in 2WD if I'm driving it in the wet. The rear wheels will spin in the slick if I punch it to accelerate onto the 45mph road outside my residential area. On the other hand, it's not quite slick enough for 4Hi. If I've left that on, I can feel that bind as soon as I turn out of my drive.

     

    Eliminating AUTO would be a major loss for me. I recognize I represent a minority of owners, which is why I imagine it hasn't been clarly addressed. If I still lived in AZ or KC, I would just have part time 4WD anyway - but I don't, which is why my coupe has AWD when I would have never chosen that if I lived in a dry climate.

     

    I was hoping I could put Manual hubs on and just remember to never engage AUTO or 4Hi/Lo while they are unlocked. No one else really drives it but me, however, I figured if I lent it so someone, I would just lock the hubs to make sure they couldn't make a mistake. My primary reason for manual hubs would be reliability and improved mpg in the rare times I get to drive it in 2WD when it's dry. Thanks!!

     

    You are correct. When the hubs are locked, all the normal options are available (2wd,auto,4hi,4lo).. When the hubs are unlocked, only use 2wd.

     

    Cheers.

    S.

    • Like 1
  6. Our Way of saying THANK YOU !

    Here are our 4 new stars for the next 3 months ! These are customer's pictures with our products !


    If you want your truck to be on the front page of SFCreation.com, **AND** that you have bought our products, send us the best pictures you have at info@sfcreation.com. The winners will be featured on our web site front page for 3 months and will be mentioned here and on Facebook. CHEERS !

    Now is the time to showoff your Pathfinder !

    Now, for our December-January-February Stars !

    path1-L.jpg

    path2-L.jpg

    path3-L.jpg

    path4-L.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. In the FSM the P0755 is this : TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve. Check harness or connectors (The Solenoid circuit is open or shorted) - Solenoid Valve B

     

    Again according to the fsm, this solenoid operates with batterie voltage (12-14V)...

     

    First thing I would do is verfy that the solenoid is working by applying voltage to it and listening to hear if it moves. if it does, from there I would trace the wire from the TCM to the solenoid. The cable is labeled L/R ( i guess light red ?) from pin 12 of the tcm side, it then goes through 3 connectors. I guess the easiest would be to test the cable at each connectors...

     

     

    I'll try to put the fsm pages for you.

    S.

     

    ** Update

     

    The file is available for 90 days : http://wikisend.com/download/391266/p0755.pdf

    p0755.pdf

    • Like 1
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