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fleurys

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Posts posted by fleurys

  1. For the camber bolts, any 14mm will do. The majority of my customers only need 1 per side, but I had a few that needed 2 per side... I guess it really depends on the health of your suspension parts (control arms bushings, etc..)

     

    I personally use the ones from ingalls ing. 81260, but I know that moog makes some also. As long as they are 14mm, you`ll be good.

  2.  

    How much do you estimate the sliders would weigh? Shipping as separate packages not an option? What about Purolator or some third-party?

    Do you have a friend on the west coast you would be able to ship a profitable amount to, which he could distribute?

     

    Just flingin' ideas out there because sliders are basically the last piece to complete basic truck armor.

    Not sure but I do recall mine were not light

     

    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20099-fleuryss-path-01/?p=482830

     

    but all this got me thinking about probably a similar system but instead of 3/16 steel, I'm tempted to look at 1/4" or higher aluminium tubing with uhmw for scrape protection... it could be a nice high end rockslider and lighter also...

     

    Now that the rear 4" sfd skidplate is finish, I will start on a new product... I just need to choose which one would make more business sens... (also fill a demand)...

     

    I'm open to suggestions..

     

    S.

  3. Bit of an update.

    I ended up buying some WARN hubs. Haven't noticed any difference in my diesel consumption which was a bit disappointing.

    The handling of the car does feel a lot better and it will come handy very soon.

     

    Next up is Fleury's 2" lift kit!

    It took me a while but I finally got confirmation that I wouldn't need to get my vehicle recertified after a 2" suspension lift.

    So Fleury look out, there's an order coming your way all the way from NZ!

     

    I've read a few threads a while back about the use of this kit and the process seemed pretty straight forward.

    Do you guys have any tips/warnings about going through with this?

    Camber bolts will probably be required too yes?

     

    Let me know.

     

    Perfect... Let me know when you're ready for shipping quote.

    Cheers.

  4. Well THAT'S a pretty negative attitude-lol. I think that you should think, "Yeah, I SHOULD make some, quality, Made in Canada sliders and increase the number of items in my Cool catalog of PF body armour!" I'm sure I'm not the only one who just thought this...just sayin...

     

    You're right !... What I meant is that passed 75lbs, canadapost will not accept the shipment... it then becomes a LDL pallet shipment...with huge costs for the customer... The shipping would probably end costing more than the product... but I guess I could try finding a solution LOL...

     

    Thanks for the comment !

    Steve.

  5. I am at the final stages of fabrication for a new product for the Sub Frame Drop 4" crew. A rear 1/4" aluminium plate with the proper angles in it that will fit with the rest of my products for a complete solution for under armor. With this final piece of the puzzle, you can have the entire under-body covered from front to back.

     

    Pricing coming soon, check the website next week.

     

    Cheers.

    Steve.

     

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  6. It's 25$ for the hardware but then you have to pay for the app... So I guess you need to make sure that you get an app that can read misfire count with this hardware.... I personally use the autel md802 and I have no experience with these bafx products... sorry

  7. misfire count can be seen with an obd2 scanner.. You will be able to see this real time. A vacuum leak is basically a hole in the air path after the mass air flow or around the air intake gasket etc... A visual inspection can be sometime hard to do if it is a small leak.. The best way I feel is using a smoke machine... you can build yourself one for small amount of $.. check youtube on that (diy smoke machine). The fuel trim (short and long) are what the computer is trying to do in order to compensate either for a lean or rich condition. Again this is monitored using a obd2 scanner...

     

    If you do not have (or have access) to an obd2 scanner, you can still test a few things but you will need to be able to duplicate the issue while you start troubleshooting.. (like unplugging sparkplug wire and listening if the engine changes sounds or not... etc... But I would try to get a scanner first...

  8. I would probably start by looking at misfire count and see if it's coming from 1 or more cylinders. If it's one cylinder I would investigate for either a low compression in that cylinder or faulty injector.

     

    If the misfire counts shows that it is all around, then I would look for a vacuum leak after the maf or the distributor cap (even if it has been changed)... Your short term fuel trim will also speak to you.. At that point, you would definitely need an obd2 tool so that you can see what is going on.. or else, you'll just play the replace part game....

  9. I've heard changing the trans fluid at this stage can possibly kill the transmission tho ? Should I keep the old stuff in it or have it flushed?

    There is a difference between flushing and simply changing the oil. A transmission shudder is exactly the symptoms that you stated. If it is the problem and you do not do anything, you will eventually kill your transmission, so for me it makes no doubts you should try to save it and change the oil and filter. There is still about 50% of the oil that will still be in the torque converter and will mix with the new oil.

     

    With this you will see if it gets better or not....

     

    Go watch transmission shudder videos on youtube and see if your issue is the same... You will eventually have to change your trans oil....

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