crazyhayseed
-
Posts
548 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by crazyhayseed
-
-
Actually, they are Ultra's! Hard to tell the difference though. Thats why I like them. I believe I paid about $90 a piece, IIRC.
Nice!
-
If you hang hooks from roof with barrels pointed out the back, you'd still bang your head on the stock at every pothole.
btw nice guns are they semi's? They look like they have some pump action.
Hmm, good point. Perhaps measurements are in order.
I've got some ideas from the Galls catalog, but Jeez that stuff is expensive!
Thank you! Nope, not semi. Those are plain 'ol Mossberg 500s w/ ATI adjustable stocks and fore ends.
They're still waiting on shorter barrels and better sights.
-
oxy moron -
Why? It works for police cars... for the most part.
I'm interested in this for off road, not driving through the suburbs. My shotguns stay home most days.
I want the guns within reach, but I don't want my 5 year old blowing a hole in the roof of my truck... or worse.
KY has the "two-step" rule. As long as it takes two separate motions to access the weapon, you're good.
But again, that's a town and highway thing.
-
It seems there might be a few pro-gun members around beside myself. I've been looking for a good way to pack two Mossbergs and a pair of 45's around in the 21 w/o just throwing them in the back.
I might mount a lock box somewhere for the HGs, but I'm hung up on the long guns.
Does anyone have gun mounts in their truck? Any idea on how to work out security and ease of access?
-
I have nothing against the black rims, but.......CUSTOM!
Mickey Thompson? I love the big holes, they remind me of the Mach 5. Expensive though.
These are cheap. You get be best of both worlds for $65 a rim.
-
OK, I'm in for $330 - Chrome.
mws, you make a good point. Definitely something to consider.
I got the quote from Jet Hot today. They want $165 a pair for standard 1300° Sterling coating. The process takes 5 days.
+$20 matte black, blue, grey or copper
+$50 for gloss black (only 1100°)
+$50 and 2 extra days for Extreme Sterling (up to 1700°)
They mention that the coating will NOT adhere to chrome. Stripping is +$50 and 2 extra days.
Return shipping is $27.
So the GT for the headers mentioned above, shipped both ways, with the most basic coating is around $269 and 10 days of down time depending on the postal carrier.
They do offer a 10% discount in their email, but that's really not much. I kinda doubt it's worth it.
-
well does that heat tape stuff work? and will it prevent the rust, and paint burning?
Header wrap will void most warranties. From what I've been told (I've been too afraid to test the theroy), it will cause damage to the header in the long term. It's more for racers that change these parts frequently.
I doubt it will offer any sort of rust protection.
If you are worried about rust best thing to do is to build or buy some stainless steel headers.Stainless won't rust, but it will blue under heat like chrome does. The only way to keep it shiney is to coat it... or never start your motor.
We can do coated if everyone agrees to, the cost will be more and I would have to find out.I'm waiting on a quote from Jet Hot. Could you get us Thorley's offer on both the chrome and ceramic, then let us vote for which to put in on?
The more info the better.
-
and then if anyone knows how chrome holds up agaisnt drastic heat changes and would provide that info would be nice
Chrome will blue with heat. They will eventually start to rust, but it takes much longer than paint. Ceramic is the best option.
You could have them coated after you get them by someone like Jet-Hot.
-
Like most older Japanese vehicles, there's a separate voltage regulator for the instrument panel only.
OIC. I'd never heard of such, but it sounds like something worth learning about.
-
Do these trucks even have a stand alone voltage regulator? I thought the alternator handled that, like in the B13.
-
We have a set of pacesetters on a pathy and they fitted perfectly. No problems at all and they have stood up really well. they are much cheaper than Thorleys and work just as well. I certainly would not be scared of using pacesetters.
Good fit or not, you should should be worried if they aren't the ceramic coated (which are often just as much if not more expensive than Thorley)
The black paint flakes off and promotes rust almost instantly.
We put a set on my brother's 2nd gen Supra. We installed in the morning and the paint was gone by the end of the day.
They were completely rusted by the time he sold the car a few months later.
I haven't dealt w/ the ceramic. They're probably better than the black, but they're much more expensive.
Why not go with the recommended brand in such a case?
I won't deal w/ Pacemaker again.
-
On my 95 the RPM on the cluster does not work, which I don't care. As long as I know how fast I am going, what the engine temp and how much gas I got.......... it's all good
LOL, The tach and the fuel gauge are all that I've got.
-
well damn, i just bought a set of pacesetters, havent installed them yet though. should i be scared?
Are they painted black?
-
ebay for the front and end caps, the rear salvage yard,
Partstrain is good if the JY doesn't work out or you want brand new with no auction hassles.
-
OH,OK! lemme get to my original unit and take a look at it and see whats still on it and i'll get back to ya! Im not sure if I re-used mine or if my kit(not scosche) came with these tabs.
EDIT:--Yep! these are still on my original head unit! Along with the under pocket assy just as your picture shows.
Gimme an address and I'll send the side brackets and screws to ya.
Hey, thanks! PM sent.
-
I didn't go at this with huge power gains in mind. I had the parts and time on hand, so I used them.
Hearsay all you want, I'm just saying my pedal feels better and I got to play with my truck this week-end at absolutely no cost
-
Im not quite sure what your asking about....Is this something mounted on the stock head unit or aftermarket? I have my original head unit in storage (i think) if that'll help you?
Stock. Here's the FSM diagram.
The Scosche installation kit that I bought says that this bit is supposed to be reused from the stock set-up and I don't really see any other way of doing it cleanly.
I'd really appreciate any help you can offer.
-
Where is the o2 sensor located and what's the best way to attack this thing?
The Intermediate Pipe pictured in Yellow:
It's around the driver-side door, inside the frame.
That's the Walker PN BTW. Sold by O'reilly.
-
Can't you swap the throttle connections and springs from one to the other?
I'm not sure. The way this one set up, I had to flip the TB over. So the throttle cable is pulling from the other direction now (under instead of over).
Since I wasn't sure if it would work or not, I was afraid to disassemble the old TB. It'll be worth taking a look at later.
I think, if you take apart the 60mm TB, you'd be able to rebuild it to correctly fit the Pathfinder.
For now, it's idling well. It starts up at 10k, then settles to around 6500. The peddle is smooth but quick.
I'm throwing a CEL though.
I'm pretty sure it's the 240 TPS, but I'm not going to fool with it so long as it's running well. I'm afraid I'd have to reflash the CPU for the new sensor, which I have neither the time or money for ATM.Here's an inside look. The "orange" ring is the intake manifold peaking. That's what'll need to be ported.
-
mine was a pita.. it was spot welded.. i ended up destroying it to get it out.
Mine is like that too! I've left it alone for now, but I think I'm gonna have to replace the whole pipe. It won't budge.
Why would someone do that? Surely they didn't come from the factory tacked like that.
-
- (noob question warning) front hubs - lock automatically once truck is put in 4WD Hi or Lo; need to be reversed to unlock, can be driven in 2H without unlocking, but better for transmission to unlock. Correct?
Read THIS first...
You shouldn't need to reverse to unlock. I remember that being a big deal in the Chevy 4x4s w/ autohubs (though I think that was a xfer case thing), but it's not necessarily the case with the Pathfinder.
4H and be shifted on the fly to 2wd. Not that it should be done, but it's possible.
I learned that little tidbit a couple weeks ago while driving in a couple inches of snow. Just for giggles I shifted out of four, which immediately sent me into a tail slide when the front stopped pulling.
Stupid decision, but it works none the less.
-
Ok, here's a comparison.
240sx modified Vs. Pathfinder
Stock
KA24DE
The '91 KA24DE throttle body is 6mm bigger than the '95 Pathy VG30's at 60mm versus 54mm.
The stock PF throttle position sensor would not work. The ECU won't recognize it at all. So I retained the 240's TPS and just retarded the timing a bit to bring the idle RPM back to around 10-12k.
GhostPath, I took your advice and bypassed the TB coolant lines. I believe the intake cooling would be further helped by a phenolic spacer on the lower manifold.
However, I noticed a couple more water lines running through the upper manifold???
I'll try to get a shot of where the manifold needs to be trimmed once I get the TB cleaned up.
-
Ask them for yourself: http://www.z31.com
It adds power by not heating the air flowing through the TB. Cooler air = denser = more power.
NM. After reading several of the threads over there, I think I'd be better off figuring it out for myself.
-
That's a common mod for the Z31 guys - Pathfinder manifold, S13/14 throttle body.
You need to port the manifold a little bit around the TB flange to get it to work properly.
Also, if you wish more power (but don't care about fuel economy) bypass the cooling lines on the throttle body so coolant does not flow through it.
Really? That little bit of coolant will add power? How so?
Ya, a little shave on the bottom of the intake would help. Again, I'll take pics.
I'd really like to see how the Fairlady guys do it, because this took quite a bit of grassroots engineering to fit and my idle is still off. If there's a right way, I doubt I accomplished it.
black rims or custom rims
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
What about using wheel spacers?