crazyhayseed
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Posts posted by crazyhayseed
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The future of little venture isn't looking so bright fellas. I think we need a definate Go/No Go date.
We need to discuss payment options as well.
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Mine
That is nice!
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To the guy who said he had probs with the platinums, please speak your mind!
Since you asked, I'll put it like this; I deal with real platinum electrodes at work. They can superheat glass past 1300°F for years w/out going bad, yet a Bosch "platinum" electrode burns up within a few thousand miles. That being the case, do you think they're really using platinum?
I learned my lesson the first and only time I tried them. I won't even bother trying NGK's offerings.
"Platinum" plugs, while being a great concept, are a glamor item that don't really do anything but waste money.
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NGK V-Power. Cheap, OEM replacement, reliable. I've used these in several cars (including my Pathfinder) and never once had an issue. They last a long, long time.
As mentioned, the #6 is easy with a little practice and a couple of extensions. I use a universal joint as well.
The hardest part is having to physically lay across (or sit on if you're small enough) the motor to reach.
I have a problem with (so called) "platnium" plugs, but I don't think this is the thread to debate it.
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I really don't see how any size body lift would help the headers clear the frame.
That first pic is the collector (Y-pipe), correct?
As long as it mounts to the rest of the exhaust system like it should, what's the problem? The engine shouldn't shift enough to cause any kind of rubbing.
The stock exhast doesn't have much clearence in that position either, from what I remember of the last time I crawled under there.
I flipped your pic the right way round (I think) to show what I'm talking about...
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here is one of the links i found about alignments........ it's the one i mentioned above
http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;hl=alignment
Post #20 looks like the only one containing anything more than idle chatter. Was there ever anything conclusive determined for or against the do-it-yourself alignment?
Do you know of any wheel bearing walk-throughs?
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I'm with Slick. If you put the tie rod ends back the way you found them, you may not necessarily have to have it aligned (bring on the shade-tree bashers).
I've never had a car aligned after changing the tie ends. I just make sure that A ) I don't move the lock nut. B ) The replacement is the same length as the replaced.
Safe bet you'll be fine.
Do you have a copy of the FSM? I recommend you look it over before starting the job. Try to be as familiar as possible with the parts before disassembly.
I've yet to have to change the front wheel bearings on my Pathfinder, but it doesn't look like a pressed-in jobber like many other 4x4s. There are several parts, but it shouldn't be that hard if you can keep up with them.
I tried searching for a 'How To' for you, but I got jack. The FSM presumes that you have some type of experience. Maybe a Haynes?
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If you aren't attached enough to the truck to keep working on it, get rid of it. There's no point if it's not going to be worth it to you personally. (.02)
However, what do you think the odds are of buying a >13 year old 4x4 that won't need maintenece?
You proably ought to decide before you do any more work though, you're just about (it not already) past the point of no return as far as your investment goes.
Looking at the FSM, the work seems pretty straight forward. It's not near as complicated as Subaru AWD hubs I can tell you.
If it were me, I'd fix it; but I'm a sucker for a money pit.
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To say that differently, I got RCA-to-bare-wire adapters and connected the line-outs from my deck to the "speaker wires" in the harness, and the stock amplifiers are much happier with that signal. The volume control on the deck is now normal.
I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
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do they make those steel bumpers for the pathy? like the ones they have for jeeps?
Do you have a pic of what you're referring to?
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Anyone checked out EXPERIMENTAL ENGINEERINGS Headers? @VG30.C0M They are built for a Datsun 510 V-6 conversion but they fit the PATHY aswell, I am bolting a set up as we speak.......(206)407-6053???'s
They are top qaulity units, the guy who has them made is a perfectionist......and is crazy.........yes thats right Dave you are nuts.....
They look nice and all, but they go for $350 uncoated (bare steel) and won't bolt up to the factory exhaust.
They'd be great for someone planning to go full-custom on the rest of the exhaust system, but that carries a lot of extra expense.
I'm not trying to dog you, but I don't see these as a cost effective alternative to Thorley. Thanks for the heads up though.
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This front amp is apparently the one giving me my headaches. My front speakers come on and off at THEIR convenience. I have re-traced all my wiring and found them to be fine,so apparently its the amp cutting in and out!
It looks like a PITA to remove. Please let us know how it goes.
Mine work fine, but that's a problem in itself. I can turn my Sony head unit past +3 volume without it overpowering the speakers. It's very hard to find a happy medium between too quiet and pounding.
I'm afraid to disconnect them though. I don't know how it will effect the factory speaker wiring and I don't want to have to reroute the whole system.
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According to the wiring schematic, it depends on your speaker set-up. There's only one amp for the 4-speaker set-up and two for the 6/8 system (this includes tweeters).
The FSM shows the front amp mounted vertically in the dash behind the stereo.
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Does Clarion not make an OEM replacement? Everything but the speakers in my truck is marked by them.
The rears are cheapos left by the previous owner... Ever heard of BassPro (not the hunting store)?
Never mind, I dug deeper into Clarion's site and answered my own question:
Clarion provides OEM radios to Ford, Acura, Nissan, Saab, Volkswagen, Hyundai, Audi, Porsche and more. For any questions or service issues involving factory installed audio systems, please contact the vehicle manufacturer service department.So...
PN:27933N SPEAKER UNITPrice: $61.76
I'm pretty sure this is it. The same PN is listed for all WD21 in that speaker size.
It's cheaper than market Clarion 5x7s anyhow.
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Check your timing, make sure it is just at 15 degrees, anything higher will make it run hotter under load. You can run a larger aluminum radiator by running another core. The radiator will be thicker so you will want to run a electric cooling fan for clearance.
Mark
I've been wondering about this subject. Would an aftermarket rad for a turbo 300z work?
The mounts might be a trick and the fans might need to be worked out, but the hose fittings look close.
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I assume crazyhayseed was looking for an improvement in performance otherwise he would have replaced his ill-running TB with another Pathfinder unit. In this case he saw issues with the factory software and tried bandaid attempts to make it work and threw in the towel.
It doesn't sound very nice when you put it like that. I prefer "hiatus".
The experiment came from trying to fix a sticky TB. That's it. Nothing more.
The "Band-Aid attempts" were made to avoid tearing apart the original throttle body in case I ran into issues and had to swap back in a hurry (the truck is still a DD and we're in the middle of some darn cold weather).
All of which turned out to be good judgment on my part if I do say so.
The point of a larger TB on ANY application is better throttle response. However, as Vegas points out, it’s a moot point without streamlining the flow of your entire intake system. Were it a sports car, you'd be looking into a CAI, higher flowing filter and possibly larger MAF.
With this engine, you'd also need to port you plenum for the new throttle ID. Looking into lower manifold and head intake ports probably wouldn't hurt either.
Of course, most of this is worthless if you're not going to open up you exhaust as well.
Again, intake upgrades don’t make big performance numbers. They merely enhance the total package.
I'd also like to point out that, even if you're going to spend the money involved in forced induction, the above still applies… with even greater emphasis actually.
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Howard Stern...again, not on XM or USB.
Soooooo, is that a Pro or a Con?
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Placebo maybe?
No, not at all. The KA TB definitely had a smoother action. The original was sticking closed (even after I'd cleaned it). The different set-up helped that.
Pedal response shortened too. It didn't take near as much effort. Just a little pressure and you're rolling.
I won't argue power gains. If I'd been looking for a lot more power I wouldn't have used the stock intake hose and filter, would I?
Fact is, without a whole host of other mods, this probably wouldn't do any good anyhow. Intake mods rarely do... save forced induction.
Please, save the "dyno" card for the newbs. You know better than to think a pissy little swap like this is worth it.
It doesn't seem like this motor is as responsive to upgrades as the others I've worked on anyway. The GA16 has more potential than this... With a lower price tag I might add.
But it doesn't hurt to try and if I document it here it will save someone the trouble latter.
Anyhow, I had to change the timing due to a fault between the CPU and 240 TPS. They didn't like each other and it sent my idle through the roof. All other adjustments wouldn't put it within range.
This eventually (three days later) led to issues with the tranny, so I had to go back to stock set-up.
As far as the MAF, it doesn't look like the KA is any bigger. The piping is all the same size too. I don't think it'll be a bottleneck, but I can break out the caliper to be sure.
Though, with a CPU upgrade, you could use any MAF you want. One could easily swap to the Cobra set-up that the turbo guys use, but I'm trying to avoid anything fancy.
At this point, I feel I've done what I set out to do (albeit a spontaneous act of tinkering). I know that it will work, it just won't be a direct replacement.
I'll work on it more when the weather warms up. ATM it's too cold to think.
And NO, unless you are (or have on hand) a machinist, it's not easier to bore the stock TB. I don't know if it would be able to loose that much material. Even so you'd have to notch or swap the rod to fit the new butterfly. But it would be great to see that done. I wouldn't mind at all if I'm wrong there.
You may talk to the guys at rabidchimp.com. They bored the TB on my brother's MK2 Supra. Maybe they'd take a look at this one.
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Off topic? Really?
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I tried XM, but wasn't impressed.
The stations were good (x2 on the BPM), but the reception was awful. The Delphi receiver was crap. It lasted only a little over a year before it blew up and the connection to the stereo was a joke.
If I had it do do again, I'd have gone with Sirius. Such as it is, I won't be buying into commercial radio again now that head units are coming with USB and SD interfaces.
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Aren't there vents on the inside of either of the rear corners?
The vents let in a lot of dust and moisture, leading to crap on the inner quarter. This tends to rot them from the inside out if not addressed.
Or, at least, that was the situation with my Sentra and 240sx... I can't say for sure on the Pathfinder yet.
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You know, I had Bosch Platinums in there before the new engine and I didn't have a problem. With the NGK's I had this annoying misfire sound. Supposedly, it was running to lean. Now, it is much better. We'll see how they are. If I end up hating them, I can always change.
There is a new plug out called Pulstar Pulse Plugs, but they are $25 each. Not ready to take that plung. But maybe a different NGK or another brand.
I tried Bosch in my 1.6 Sentra. Bad juju!
The center electrode on the P2's burned up into the ceramic. I've never seen anything else like it. There was nothing left!
The one time I bought "platinum" was the last time I bought into a gimmick plug. Nissans come with NGK, NGK is what goes back in.
NGK V-power plugs are what O'reilly lists as the OEM replacement, along with plain-jane Autolite Resistors (which I've never tried).
I don't mean to dog your choice, but you should keep an eye on them. Were I you, I'd pull at least one every 10k to check for wear.
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2nd Annual Freeze Your Nuts Off Harlan, KY run Feb 22-24, anyone?
I've gotta work that week-end, but I'm all over the next one. Keep me posted!
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I have always wanted a way to secure something like this or even the fly rods to the interior roof... with out trashing the headliner.. They got stuff for the Glass.... Maybe Ill just have to play with some Velcro...
Big Sky Racks makes a non-evasive overhead mount, but it's really expensive and the mounts left to right vs front to back.
I was really hoping that there was more out there.
LBL Run April 18th-20th.
in Southeast States
Posted
I'm interested. I'll have to see about getting that week-end off, but I'd love to go.
Are you all planning on camping there? Will there be somewhere to meet up on the way? Are the trails there going to be too much for my stocker?