nunya

Have to vote frame issues since while i was looking fo rone every one i came across was junk underneath. the newer they got the worse they were suprisingly. that and they should have never quit the 2 door...

i am goeing to need a couple when they are up again as well

my mistake, i misunderstood, sorry about that(wasnt my place anyway)

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038 planning on it myself.

If i am correct it is called the Nissan Camiones and 2008 was the last model year for it and they are starting to push 09's now. i had web sites about them having thoughts of figuring out how to ship a 08 d-21 hardbody 4 door to the U.S. that thought passed and i cant read other languages so i gave up.

Sounds like my 91 hardbody, its the throwout bearing in that, been liek that for years, i just dont want to pull it apart unless that trans is goeing in the Pathfinder.....

Your in PA, the insp. mech. is SUPPOSED to check for wheelbearing issues.

Besides cutting some jumper wires off the switch someone put on for unknown reasons and were pinching in the colum, the fix for me was replacing the headlight switch. I had a spare one from a 2wd Hardbody basemodel i had for parts. It is actually not the correct one(does not have the controls for cruise on it) but the headlights work perfectly with any of the multipule bulbs i went through thinking they were bad. I dont honestly know what goeing price would be for one, i just got luckey and have a couple spare parts laying around having stripped a fiew Hardbodies before junking then.

i just went through a similar headlight issue, both bulbs were good but only the left low beam would work, and the right high beam would work. after goeing nuts tracing wires( which has been fun with this truck, everyone is a mechanic until someone who wants to fix it right gets ahold of it). turns out it was the headlight switch had an internal short. 6 phillips screws for the steering colum trim, 2 for the headlight switch, 2 plugs removed, reverse procedure and had perfect working headlights.

I've gotten into many d-21 pickups and wd-21 pathfinders with the Big Easy tool(I drive wrecker, not a car theif), they are actually easy. If you don't want the box to go anywhere, fill it with a little concrete. You may laugh but it definatly deters people. I did it in an Olds Cutlass I had, my trunk was broken into 3 times and the only thing I lost was someone stole a bent golf club I had in the trunk.

at the moment all i have on my 88 2 door 3.0l is the factory y-pipe and a aftermarket bullet shaped converter(don't know the brand, cut off a crown vic getting junked). no muffler, no tailpipe, exiting right under the drivers floor. dont sound too bad just a little noisy for me and i cant get it inspected that way. doesn't sound weed wacker-ish or like a honda though. goeing for a thrush muffler im thinking and see if i can get it to exit before the rear tire.

Well its not the gauge cluster, I now have an extra one of those, the wiring looks intact at the float assembly, used a test light though and only have power to 1 wire with the truck running(figuring that it is the power side of the fuel pump). Looks like I am tracing wires now, which seems to be common as I find more and more stuff jumped off of stuff after lifting the rear carpet.

running 30's for the moment, have 31's mounted on centerlines ready, just havent got that far yet.

My fuel gauge is stuck on empty, I tried jumping the terminals on the back of the instrument cluster that Mitchel On Demand said were for it(if that is even right) and it still didn't budge. All my other gauges work fine but I have come to find that someone before me didn't exactly do well with wiring(miles of wires jumping things and left as perminant fixes unstead of just fixing things) My thoughts are bad gauge but was not sure and wanted to get some other ideas before I try to hunt down a whole cluster. Thanks in advance.

If he don't want to swap I'm up for it, I can't do the wingless thing(even though I can't drive it on the road yet, I still have to look at it)

to reduce wear on rear drums the rear brake lines can be disconnected which will shoot fluid on the ground and cause for a bleeding...or you can get line locks to do the same.. or just crimp the rubber flex hose with vise grips....

I would suggest an allignment as well when you ge it where you want it sitting. I did it with my Hardbody and went without alligning it, looked fine to the eye, but in no time the outside edges of my tires were gone.

I would say tweak the torsion bars around a little and you will level out

I'm gonna try I was just hoping there was another option as well.

I finally found me a Pathfinder so I can actually feel like I belong here now instead of faking it with a Hardbody. Once I get some pictures I will post, its not road worthy yet. Its a 88 2door 3.0 auto(which I am hoping my 5 speed out of the Hardbody can change). Someone cut the exhaust off, converter and all, needs some rocker panel help, and a couple small quirks but suprizingly has a perfect frame. My questions are 1.will the 5 speed from my Hardbody work(its a 2.4l compared to the 3.0l in the pathfinder)? 2.are there any places that sell complete rocker panels? otherwise my issues are pretty simple and just my personal taste problems.