Jump to content

laxman0324

Members
  • Posts

    6,264
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by laxman0324

  1. Well, VQ's aren't cheap and are a high demand engine. So according to wikipedia (god help me) the only real difference between the 3.5 nad 4.0 is the stroke. 81.4mm for the 3.5 and 92.0mm for the 4.0. Plus it has some other electronic gizmos. So I would say just use a 3.5 as a donor for the outside bits and drop the 4.0 in it's place. It's rated at 30more HP and at minimun 20 more lb-ft of torque. You would probably have to swap the heads though, since the 4.0 has continuous VVT. Only thing is I haven't seen anyone use the 4.0 for any other application. If it was good, you'd think you'd see more 350Z's with them in. I wonder...

     

    Jose

    The 4.0 is not a high revving engine, so I would imagine that reason keeps them from being a suitable car engine...Also I read in the same article as before that the main reason for stroking the 3.5 to a 4.0 was to gain torque. The VQ35 easily makes high horsepower numbers but the torque is still pretty low (look at 350Z and Altima and Maxima with it)

  2. A turbo is always a good way to get significant additional power. On the R50 that'd be a lot of work, though.

     

     

     

    A modded VQ35DE would be pretty rad. HKS supercharger, anyone? :D

     

    For the VQ40DE, what about the transmission? Is this crank similar to the VQ35DE?

     

    Even for us early model R50 owners with the VG33E, we'd have to swap in a different transmission, no? :scratchhead:

    IDK anything really about the differences in mounting between the VG and the VQ. I would imagine if the VQ40 is just a stroked VQ35 it should have all of the same mounting points, for the transmission as well? Maybe just need to put some brackets from the VQ35 onto the VQ40?

     

    And I am not a big fan of supercharging, or turbocharging for that matter, I like the really peaky all motor engines that are pretty much lifeless down low but when you get into the powerband become these screaming monsters...

  3. Yea they are the only manufacturer to have a mud tire in the size 265/70R16. I don't really want to step up to the trimming involved in the 265/65R16 tires. Discount Tire Direct has them on their website...

  4. Out of all the possibilities, no one has really discussed this topic. I wonder if the sub frames are the same? Then this VQ40 idea might really work. Throw an HKS Rotrex supercharger on it and just be silly stupid all day long!! :tongue:

     

    Jose

    To be honest I am kind of surprised no VG33 owner has tried to put a VQ35 in. I think if my motor ever goes I might try a VQ40 with a lot of research...Either that or build up the VQ35 with 350Z heads, intake manifold, JWT cams, throttle body, etc...

  5. I thought I read somewhere that the VQ40 was just an enlarged VQ35? Has anyone looked at the block to see if the mounting points and what not are the same?

     

    Also, for the turbo idea, what about doing a turbo back approach? I know the plumbing would be custom but wouldn't that be a much simpler approach to run custom plumbing than to try and squeeze one or two turbos in the engine bay?

     

    And another idea, does the VQ35 bolt to the subframe in the same locations as the VG33? If so you could just swap a VQ35 in and theres at least 240hp.

  6. Its stock with toyo open country and I don't really like the toyos on it

    Don't tell Ty that he gets a hard on any time he sees Toyos...j/k Ty.

     

    I have the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2's on my Pathfinder and I love them...BFG A/T's always perform and look great.

  7. So here is a link for the black magic fan.

     

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-188

     

    For about the same price as 2 perma cool fans and controllers. But its one fan rated to pull 3300 CFM. So what are pros and cons of either? It is a 16 inch fan and it has a good sized shroud around it...

     

    edit: the one I posted above is just the fan. This one includes the controllers and temp sensors and all that. $300

     

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-180/

  8. I have a couple of extensive write-ups on this on NICO. Here's a short version of the write-up...

     

    Go with two fans, a custom shroud setup will be too expensive and won't be much more beneficial than a two-fan setup (versus a single fan setup). The largest fan size for a dual-fan setup on the R50 radiator is two 12" fans. Your best bet is to go with something like two Perma-cool high performance electric fans, as said above, it won't be cheap. After getting two fans and a dual controller you're looking at about $250. The perma-cool fans will cool much better than the stock fan and should and will provide more than adequate cooling. You can use two single controllers or a single dual controller, it really depends on what you want to use. The temperature measurement location really depends on which controller you buy, there are kinds that you stick in the fins and there is the kind that goes into the drain plug or on other radiator orifices. Obviously the kind that uses a probe that you stick in the fins is less efficient but they are much more common. Your best best is to wire one fan to turn on automatically when the A/C is on and then both turn on at a specific temperature. You can purchase variable speed fans and controllers (Flex-a-lite sells some) but you would be looking at shelling out some serious money (around $500) so I would suggest sticking with some standard ON/OFF fans.

     

    I haven't done the conversion yet but that is the next mod on the list. If I complete the conversion I will definitely take some detailed pics and some instructions. It it super easy to complete the conversion and should take no more than a single afternoon.

    Great information! I was just looking on the flex-a-lite site and passing out as i saw the prices...

     

    One question, are you wiring the second fan to come on at a certain temperate AND with the A/C on or just have both fans come on at certain temperatures? If I could wire the second fan to come on at either a certain temperature or having the A/C on if I can, I am sure it is possible. The reason I ask is because I am wondering if just having the second fan come on at a higher temperature would be fine? I do a lot of highway driving and if the air can keep the engine cool enough without the fans coming on I would rather them not come on.

     

    Honestly, I think $250 is reasonable for a mod like this where the only possible outcome is benefits if it is done right...not to mention with the way gas prices are going it will pay itself off sooner (years instead of decades)

     

    Thanks for the info!

  9. shift220:

     

    I want the best quality for the price, so if it means a used OEM fan from another car so be it.

     

    And thanks for shedding some light on the thermostat. I am pretty comfortable wiring, so that is not a big concern for me. I just want a reliable sensor and a sturdy set up since I sometimes spend a lot of time in traffic. I will be doing more research on the thermostat in the next couple days...

  10. Some of the aftermarket electric fans come with the thermostat and sensor that gets placed between the fins of your radiator, I had a single electric fan on my 87 Hardbody a long time ago, don't remember which brand it was but it was a beast!!

     

    here is a writeup on how to choose the proper fan:

     

    http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/howtoelectric.html

    I read a quote from Dean (xplorx4) somewhere saying that between the fin style sensors were not as accurate. I want to do this the best way possible.

     

    I would like to do a big fan, maybe the same size as the stock fan if I could set it up to be a dual speed fan and if it could pull the same CFM as the stock fan. Doing that would allow me to modify the existing shroud to fit the electric fan so I can retain the benefits of the shroud.

  11. So I want to do an electric cooling fan conversion. Can anybody shed more light on this than I have gathered so far, as well as provide some definite specs:

     

    1. How much does the stock mechanical fan pull? I am guessing a two fan set up would be best, one coming on at a certain temperature (if you know the best tell me!) and the other either coming on with the A/C or coming on at a higher temperature. I am assuming the total CFM of both the electric fans should be comparable to the stock mechanical fan.

     

    2. I know nothing about the temperature sensors used to turn these on. Where do I get them, how do I adjust the temperature, etc. I would assume one that attaches between the radiator input (upper?) and the hose would be best, does such a thing exist or do I have to tap into the radiator or what?

     

    3. Any recommendation on fans? Is there any way to have both fans come on low power at a lower temperature and have them both kick to high power at either a higher temperature or the A/C being turned on?

     

    4. Anything else I am missing? I think if we can get some definite answers and someone who actually does this it can be a very useful mod (and hopefully somewhat cheap) for R50 owners.

     

    Thanks in advance,

    Mike

  12. It should improve, cool straight air going into the engine rather than being mixed with very hot, re-used exhaust gasses. Emission systems are the biggest gas and power sucking systems on engines.

    a little off topic but this is why hybrids of today can't even match the Honda CR-X's mileage from 20 years ago...

×
×
  • Create New...