HankG

For a while now the Pathfinder's clutch has been giving me problems. In the mornings, it is fairly unresponsive. I push the pedal down and it stays down and I have to pull it back out with my foot. After driving for a while it mostly starts working. Unfortunately, it has gotten worse recently. I was on the freeway the other day trying to downshift, pulled it out of fifth, and couldn't get it to go back into gear. I had to wrestle with it and finally got it into gear with a bit of grinding. When I got home, I coasted into the driveway in neutral and couldn't get it to go into first when I was parking. It just grinded badly every time I tried, and I haven't driven it since then. Today I called my brother for help, and his first thought was air bubble in the system. So I pumped the pedal for three to five minutes, and it started working normally. However, we couldn't find any leak at all anywhere in the system. Everything is completely bone dry even after all the pumping and holding the pedal down for a while, and the fluid level in the reservoir is full and not going down at all. So my question is, how is air getting in but fluid not getting out? Is there any other trouble shooting we should be doing? Is there a part that commonly fails that could be doing this somehow? I don't really want to start replacing things without knowing if they're bad, but the Pathfinder isn't really drivable currently. Thanks for any help. Edit: Since posting this, did more research, and it seems like the clutch damper is a common fail point. We bypassed it and the clutch feels very nice, but I won't really be able to tell until it sits overnight.

To answer your question with a little more directness and fewer references to an event you know nothing about, thus telling you nothing and not answering the question at all, you can't really get a SFD at the moment. There are no companies that make them and the few that are around have either been made by members or custom done by a person's local fab shop. The members who have made them in the past are not currently making them, and have given no indication of making them in the future, so your only option really is to get a local shop to custom make one. I can't really give a price estimate, but I think I recall $2,000 being mentioned as the entire price for the shop to get the vehicle, figure out what needed to be made, make it, and install it. However, there are at least pictures if not also measurements on this board, so maybe you could just give the specs to a shop to save some money, although it'd still be quite expensive, I'd think.

I think I get around 14-15 mpg avg, but that's really inefficient driving. When I'm driving efficiently, I get around 18-19 average with an 90/10 highway/city split. It might be a little higher since I'm not sure if I'm supposed to adjust the mpg with just 31x10.50s.

Add another Google vote.

This is a good tip. I managed to still make a decent mess since I'm a messy person, but doing this definitely reduced it.

Welcome to the forums! I'm afraid if I start rattling things off I'll get something wrong, but if you do a search you should be able to find the answers pretty quickly. Btw, you should make an introduction post here.

Lol, that sounds like my younger brother and his friend. They buy cheap ass cars/trucks, get 'em running, thrash 'em on and off road til they're dead, then part them out for more than they paid.

I don't have a lift so I can't tell you exactly, but my stock length shocks (bought new shocks without thinking about flex, still kicking myself for it) limit my flex with just the rear swaybar removed, so I'd imagine they'd definitely limit lifted flex.

I thought it was only WD21s and maybe QX4s. Never heard of a standard r50 with it before. Maybe it was a short-term, limited option?

Rarely. I'd love to take my dog with my more often, but he's about as neurotic as a dog can be. One of the many things he's afraid of is riding in a car. When I do bring him with me, he sort of enjoys it, but he spends the entire time laying on the floor shaking.

It's a classic; you won't regret reading it.

Just nvm; there's no point.

I won't speak for the others, but personally it was the attitude more than the question. People ask questions here about road performance every day and get prompt, polite answers. They just don't preface it with "your site is normally @!*%."

I don't know; I think he had a bit of gentle ribbing coming after saying this site had almost no useful information. Long as it doesn't get mean, fair game imo.

If you don't do much off-roading, why not just stick with some good 31s? Some people here (Pezzy for instance, although she has a lot of other mods) do even hardcore off-roading with 31s, so for lighter stuff you'd have no problems. I've been rocking half tread or lower 31s since I got my Pathfinder, and while I don't do anything hardcore (some pretty good stuff, though), I've never been in a situation where I was wishing for bigger tires. If it's for looks then that's one thing, but if you're just looking for performance, buy some good 31x10.50 MTs imo.

I think I know why you have trouble finding information here that is helpful to you.

Although I guess a 10% cut in pay is better than the 20,000 getting laid off, especially since it's not like they'll be hurting for cash, it's still good to see. I just wish my college would do something similar. Cutting out lots of classes, raising tuition, and paying lower scale teachers less while all the higher ups aren't being touched or are even getting paid more. I especially hate that our worthless president who has made countless bad decisions and has gotten the school into a decent bit of trouble got a 10% raise not long ago, so he's now making almost $300,000 a year to do nothing but sit in his office and fskc up.

I don't have the lsd so I can't speak from experience, but from what I've read, the wd21 lsd (which you are probably thinking of) is significantly better than the r50 lsd.

All that's there AFAIK is the dump, a body shop, and the trailer park across the street. Maybe the body shop used to be the place that you are thinking of?

I can't remember there ever being a wrecker in McKinleyville; it must have been quite a while ago, or at least before my interests changed and I would have noticed it. The one I went to was John's just before you hit Eureka.

Depends on where you live. Here, there's only one place to get used parts and it's a complete ripoff. When I needed a new fan clutch, the price the guy quoted for me to go pull it myself was higher than the cost of getting one new from Kragen. Haven't gone back there since.

Just caught the new page/bookmark icon. Threw me off for a second, but looks good.

This seems more like an endorsement than a warning. Those numbers would mean it'd take less than half a year (figuring 15k a year average) for the hubs to pay for themselves, and by the end of the year you'd have saved more than $150, and after that you'd be saving $360 every year. Just as an example, if you had put the hubs on when you first got your r50, they would have more than paid for one of your lockers. While gas costs may make that number lower (or higher), I think manual hubs should be put on every r50 immediately after purchase even if the vehicle is never modded otherwise or never goes off-road. It just makes financial sense.

Lol, my bump stops have been sitting in the coils like that since I got it. It was one of the first things I wanted to fix, but I never really got around to it, and they're still doing their job so /shrug.

Those will fit great.