nige

Take a good look underneath at the frame and make sure it's not corroded. The body is easy enough to fix corrosion, but the frame is very important too. Besides that it sounds pretty good. Post a couple pics for us to see if you want second opinions. How does the exhaust manifold look? that's a common problem with these trucks. Make sure you get to start it COLD, because the seller may already have warmed up the truck before you got there to check it out. Never underestimate the sneakyness of sellers. I did and it cost me 700 bucks

I never do the 'shift on the fly' into 4wh. I come to a complete stop, neutral, pull the lever to 4wh, then slowly pull away. To get it back into 2H, i come to a complete stop, neutral, shift the lever to 2H, then go into reverse for a few feet, then fowards. I've never ever had any trouble/wierd clunks or noises doing it that way. The little 4WD light goes out immediately. That's the way my father taught me to do it and he's been driving trucks forever.

oh mine has all sorts of quirks. Sometimes I think it's possessed, you know. THe interior lights dim up and down, the stereo used to adjust the volume by itself (but only right before I get home --so wierd) I've just learned to not care about it. You'd probably end up ripping the whole dash apart before you find the culprit. It's probalby just a couple of loose connections somewhere in there... If you really wnat to, go pick up a haynes manual and study the electrical blueprints to trace the problems.

That's completely normal on a cold start.

my miata had the same problem. I just switched to a lighter oil and it worked fine. It would only make the noise for about ten seconds. Just rev the car a little and it should go away.

it's steadily dropped to about 75c per litre here in waterloo. Not that that's a great deal or anything, but that's the cheapest it's been in a couple months

LOLerskates

dirty bastards not putting anti-sieze on the bolts... sheesh what a p.i.t.a. All i can say is keep dousing it in penetrating oil. It may take a day for it to completely soak in, but jsut keep laying it on.

your truck shouldn't ever need new calipers unless they're seized. The aren't like pads and rotors which naturally wear out. I'm on the OEM calipers with 170 000 km on the odo. I'm not even sure you'd need new rotors at 100 000km, unless they have uneven deposits on the rotor surface (vibrating pedal). The rear axle is dead easy to do yourself. You might as well replace the parking brake pads inside the rear rotor while it's off. The front ones are a little more tricky as it involves removing the hub, like herm mentionned, but as long as you don't mix up the parts and put them back on incorrectly, you should be ok. Screw the sevice guy, unless he's doing the job for free, go out and get yourself a haynes/chilton manual, (if availible) and start doing small maintence jobs yourself, your wallet will thank you. If you get stuck, just ask one of us.

The first 1-2 shift on my truck is always harsh, especially in cold weather. The engine seems to rev up pretty high, then jerks into second. The owner's manual says that this is normal, and as long as it doesn't shift like this all the time, i don't think i'd worry about it too much.

Do you still have warranty left? It sounds like either balljoints or something is fuddled up with the steering input shaft. I'd take it into the dealer and let them service it as long as it's free

does your bumper do that everytime you hit a big puddle?

fuel goes bad as quickly as 30 days after refining. Whenever you store an engine for prolonged periods of time, it's always a good idea to fill the tank all the way up and add some stablizer as pickles says. Make sure you run the engine for a few mins to work the stabilized gas throughout the system.

that's where mine went too

there's a "winter" in arizona?

you'll find most of the info in the garage section. I suggest reading all the notices posted at the top of the topics first. Then do a search for tyres or tires with the little assistant button in the top right of your screen welcome to the forums

if it's C.A.R.B. legal, it ought to pass whereever you live. Cali has the strictest emmissions laws anywhere

you did your plugs, cap/rotor and wires recently?

I think cuong had some lockers for sale in the classified section. Check them out

good then, you never take a loss on a vehicle until you sell it for less than what you paid for. I hate the fact that I paid $15 000 cdn. for mine in 2001, now a similar truck with ballpark milage is netting about $6000. But i dont give a hoot. It's worth 15 000 to me, and as long as it does the job for you, it holds value. yaknowwhatimean?

did you see this one?

yeah, there was a thermostat type thingy with a probe you mount to one of the radiator hoses. Lemme see if i can find the thread. I was thinking of doing the same thing with my truck

I would try re-indexing them. If it gives you the extra space you need, consider that it might prematurely wear ball joints, unless new Upper Control Arms are installed or at least some ball-joint spacers. There's word that the Automotive Customizers ball joint spacers will wear your UCA's out. Read around and find out.

it's a good idea not to get your oily mitts all over the new rotor when installing it, so buy a can of brake cleaner incase it does happen. If your doing the rear, now would be an ideal time to change the parking brake pads if they're faded.

rear or front?