dmvhornback

So I just wanted to update this thread to let everyone know what the issue was. This ended up being a more complicated job than I could handle so I took it to a reputable mechanic in my area. As you all suspected, the fusible link was blown and so they replaced it a fused one. Windows were working fine for a day or two when they crapped out again, but fusible link was still intact. Door lock timer and power circuit breaker were also still working. The root issue somehow ended up being the old switch for the electric suspension my SE came with from the factory. I took those off and installed some bilstein shocks a while ago but the switch in the cabin was somehow causing a relay (don’t remember which one exactly) to short and burn out. The parts were cheap, but the labor time they took figuring out the issue was the real cost. Ended being about $400-$500… in total. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would you happen to know which side of the fire wall the the fusible link is? After replacing the circuit breaker, nothing happened and I don’t have my multimeter to check the continuity. P.S - would I check the continuity by simply sticking the meter into the plug/harness/wiring thingy lol (name is slipping my mind) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my part came in. I found the circuit breaker., It was on the passenger side. Replaced with a brand new one (was not able to check continuity because most of my tools are put away in storage right now), and it had no effect. Power windows and Locks still aren’t working this is disheartening and may just take it to an electrical technician to get a diagnosis cause I’m in school full time in the moment and won’t be free till beginning of August. If anyone else has any other ideas of where else I could look, any help would be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm thanks for examples, and I haven’t checked “beside” or below the fuse block yet… neither the passenger side. This may be where I’m going wrong. Unfortunately, I had to leave the truck with a car cover in my parent’s driveway because I needed to make an impromptu trip to Arizona. But this is where I’m starting when I get back!!! You’ve been a great help! I almost debated taking it to a mechanic to fix it because I was going crazy and I figured it couldn’t haven been an expensive fix… but you have restored my hope/ confidence lol. P.S I will update this thread with my progress when I return. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that was the first place I checked, checked all with a multimeter and were good. I highly suspect it’s the “circuit breaker” thingy after reading some other forums posts but I am having trouble locating it.

I’ve been looking for this thing all day yesterday and I can’t find it. But I believe you’re right about that circuit breaker being this issue.

Sorry if this topic has been covered but I looked at a bunch of posts and nothing seems to have addressed my issue specifically. The other day I lost power to my windows (including the hatch) and my power locks. I suspected a faulty door lock timer per some other posts. But after a replacement, this didn’t not solve my issue. Neither did the replacement of a master switch. When I try to use any of the controls I can’t hear any relays going off or anything of the sorts and I’m kinda at a lost with my windows stuck down. So I’m must assume it’s a relay? But I’m not sure which relay or where to start. im pretty bad with electrical issues, even so I have a multimeter (that I barely know how to use lol). id appreciate any input.

This is exactly what I was looking for! Was planning on going to a junkyard to dissemble them and get a look myself. Thanks for saving me a trip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I noticed the bushing for the front lower control arm is the same part number as the rear lower control arm but I also noticed there isn’t a upper rear control arm bushing. Is the rear control arms bushing all the same kind of bushing unlike the front control arm bushing which are two different types of bushing?

I noticed the maintenance schedule says “(4) If towing a trailer, using a camper or a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 30,000 miles (48,000 km or 24 months except for L.S.D. Change L.S.D. gear oil every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.” My question is, and I’m assuming a “car-top carrier” is a roof rack or cargo box of some sort, does this note 4 apply or matter if the “car-top carrier” isn’t fully loaded? I ask because usually my roof rack is empty except for the summer when I can afford to go on a camping trips the length of typically 400-700 miles of driving. The rest of the year I’m just daily driving it. Thanks for the input

did you ever figure it out? i just bought that drier and idk if its going to fit either...

Did you ever find a way to fix it?

Did you ever figure out/fix the issue? i just recently ran into the same problem. Id like to know what I'm going to have to fix or work on before i start doing anything, just incase i need to hit up the junkyard for replacement pieces.

That ended up being my website of choice for the fuel pump i installed the new unit and couldn't figure out what was wrong with the old one. anyways i alos didnt know that you had to buy an additional harness or holder (whatever the fuel pump is suspended by for the tank. i ended up using the original piece to hold it up with a new o-ring ofc. Am i going to regret using the original harness? It looked fine. but then again idk?

Exactly what i thought. I did just that, and shes good as new. minus the stupid exhaust leak lol