AR97Pathfinder

Got the new set of coils today. You were right, looks like someone did a little funny business with the last set that came. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just over 181k but I live in NYC (Queens) and as you know city driving sucks the life out your vehicles. But it’s in amazing shape despite. I do get some stretches of highway driving in every week though. And used to do some Florida and Canada trips before with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I tried it a few months ago and didn’t work. So I pulled upper and lower intakes and changed knock sensor, injectors, fuel rail to intake seals, IACV, and intake seals. So far so good. Hopefully don’t see the warm restart stumble after 20 min come back. One thing I forgot to do which I will do this weekend is clean all the ground connections in the engine bay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I remember from a while back when I had previously opened them up. That’s why I was stumped as soon as I saw these new ones. I knew something was off. I ordered a new set and sending these back and also a set of Moog for the heck of it to cross check. Whatever set I don’t use is going back. If they’re all screwed up I’ll just wait for the OMEs. But my springs are in need of changing currently so that’s why I went with one of these brands for now. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And I think you are right hawairish. According to ACDelco the spring wire diameter is supposed to be 0.6in thick and the one I got is 0.75in. The inner diameter is supposed to be 5.9in. This one is less than 5in. The free length is supposed to be 14.8”. This one is barely 14in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So according to the company’s (ACDelco) tech they said it’s not a true pigtail and it will definitely work. Only way to know is when I take it apart or I order a next set and see when it comes. The coils also look thicker. You’re defiantly right about those possibilities. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I don’t know how various places are selling them for this vehicle. Even the Moog for this vehicle has a pigtail end. And people claimed to have installed it. Even a reviewer on Amazon said they installed it on a 98 Pathfinder. I don’t see how it would fit the top seat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No wasn’t tampered and was the correct part number. I even called the company and provided the vin this morning and they said that’s the right one. But I will get a better pic up later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m assuming that means it’s unlikely to work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m assuming that means it’s unlikely to work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Since the OME coils are back ordered and the Ironman have some uncertainty I decided to get som ACDelco professional coils for the front. I was really looking for a lift anyways but can always use a spacer if I want a little lift. Anyways I got the ACDelco 45H0454 coils which are for the 4wd model R50s from Rockauto. However I received it yesterday and I noticed one end is tangential and the other pigtail. When I dissembled my strut before I don’t remember any side of the Nissan coil having a pigtail end. After further checking other brands such as Moog, I see that they are also pigtail at one end for the Pathfinders. I doubled checked using the VIN on both the Moog and ACDelco websites and it says it’s for the 96-2004 pathfinders. How would this fit into the KYB struts with the Nissan upper coil seats? Would the pigtail go to the top or the bottom? Or would this even work? I would think they must have to work if all these brands are selling them and some reviews from Amazon and such say they work. But I’m just not seeing how. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got everything back together. Running perfect! No issues whatsoever.

Yeah, I’ll see how it goes tomorrow when I finish up and get it started. Will check for any coolant leaks. I should be fine with that one bolt once it caught a lot of threads lower right?

So I ran into some trouble. I finished changing all parts and was assembling. On the lower intake I was installing the nuts and bolts. The manual said tighten to 4 ft-lb then 16ft-lb. The screw on the farthest back right pulled the threads on the block. I was still on the 4ft-lb setting but the torque ratchet didn’t click. I’m not sure if the ratchet probably was not working. So I took the bolts and nuts back off and the one that pulled the threads I used a longer bolt on it. There was thread below still. Seemed like a lot as I was able to get it down normally. A longtime Nissan tech I know told me I should have tighten them by hand not torque wrench. So by feel I have tightened everything back down really good. Hopefully there’s no problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should that be done now when everything is open or put it back together first? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually got the upper plenum and lower intake off this evening. Took about 3 hours taking my time getting everything off including clean up after. I also took off the hood so I can climb in and move around freely when needed. I have to finish changing the parts tomorrow ( injectors, FPR, IACV, coolant hoses) then put everything back together. I’ll also have to adjust back the idle and new coolant. I installed the new knock sensor before calling it quits for the evening. The old one was completely destroyed. It was cracked in half and completely brittle. From the time I grabbed a hold of the harness the head of the knock sensor just broke off. The bolts came out of everything with absolutely no problems at all. And I was worrying about this leading up to the project. What I did do for several days prior was soak down all the bolts with PB blaster. I made sure to get all parts beforehand including extra screws, bolts, clamps, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pulled the upper and lower intakes this evening to replace the knock sensor, fuel injectors, IACV, FPR, the intake gaskets, and some coolant hoses. Should finish tomorrow if everything goes well. I pulled the drain plug on the radiator before starting and got out almost all coolant. I know there is some left in block but lower than the lower intake. When I pulled the lower intake though a very small amount of coolant dripped under the vehicle and some onto the block. I didn’t see any in the cylinders though. Should I be worried about this? If a small amount went in? All the valves were closed from what I saw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should I apply it to the lower intake manifold and block ends? A light coat and then put the gasket on? Do you think it could lead to a coolant or air leak there? I guess I’ll have to see the surface first if there is much imperfections. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any specific type of silicone you recommend in that case? Would applying a skim of the sealant on both ends of the intake with the gasket in between cause a coolant or air leak at the lower intake/block mating ports? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I got the OEM Nissan gaskets for the 33. The gaskets are a dry install for the upper and lower intakes correct? No sealant needs to be additionally applied to these gaskets? And I’ll be putting the knock sensor back in the original spot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I guess I should be fine with draining the radiator for the lower intake removal. Are the the VG30e much different from the VG33E though? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks a lot 01Pathmaker, that will help out a lot. Hopefully when I do it I don’t run into any issues with that lower intake. Btw, the block has to be drained for that lower intake removal? Or is radiator drain sufficient? I read in the manual to drain the block directly, but I was checking out some YouTube videos on this job and some mentioned draining the block while quite a few did not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I was thinking might as well go all the way if I’m already over half way into it. Wouldn’t heat be a bit of an issue there since the manifold is aluminum? And then applying a lot of torque to get the bolt out. Assuming it would be stuck. I was thinking of spraying them down with PB Blaster. Not doubting you at with your help but heat is what worked best for you with those lower intake bolts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone relocated their knock sensor on the vg33e model engines? It’s located under the lower intake and many relocate due to the amount of work required to remove the upper plenum and then the lower intake. With the risks of the lower plenum screws and bolts being seized and then stripping the threads when trying to remove. But would it serve its purpose sitting on top the plenum after relocation? I’m going to pull the upper plenum to replace injectors, IACV, FPR, some coolant hoses, the plenum gasket of course, and seals for the injector rail to lower plenum. But currently skeptical about lower intake removal. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk