[issues with cooling system]

2 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

you should pm slartibartfast he usually knows a bunch about stuff like this

Alright I’ll try that later 

[issues with cooling system]

21 minutes ago, Manik said:

Id clean the throttle body, pull the idle air control valve and clean that port as well. Mine used to do that, but, I did what I mentioned before as well as replacing a few rotten vacuum lines, now shes all good..

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
 

The thing is though the car has 90k kilometres on it. So it hasn’t had much time to have @!*% happen to it. The idle thing is what ever honestly but it’s mainly the pressurizing thing I care about. As long as my engine gets water and stays cool with out pressure I’m cool with it for now. But if this is going to lead to damage later on I’d like to know what I gotta do 

 

edit: I should mention it’s a 97 

[issues with cooling system]

A few months back i had to move my pathy out of storage and up to my shop so i can work on it as it had been sitting for a few years maybe more with out being ran or even touched. When we got there it had over heated so bad you could feel it inside the cab. The coolant had disappeared totally... The next day we had filled the engine with water and ran it for a good half hour or more and it didnt even lose a drop. All is good now. It runs and it doesnt over heat. BUTTTTT. The system does not pressurize. I have not had too much with engines to know if all systems will pressurize or not. The vehicle does not over heat as it runs flawless and the coolant gauge shows half way when it has been running for a while. The top rad hose gets extremely hot to the touch (as i think it should) but i can squeeze it like nothing. Almost as if there is nothing in there even when its cold. Is it supposed to be this soft or is it supposed to be more firm? Also opn a side note a little away from topic. This shouldnt be a big issue but when ever i press the gas and let off of it, as the rpms go down it almost jumped up 1 line to about 1200 from 1100 then it idles. Is that normal or is that just something small that doesnt need attention? 

[Are cold air intakes worth it?]

19 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Always just groan and mentally slap my forehead when I see or hear "cold air intake". Seriously, how can anyone possibly think that the air in the engine bay is cold? The factory airbox is more of a cold air intake since it is pulling air from the fender rather than the engine bay. It also does a much better job of filtering air and preventing water from getting into the intake. That all means that the MAF is better protected. The stock airbox is not restrictive at all for the stock and near stock engine. Probably the most restrictive parts are the MAF, throttle body, and valves in the heads. 

 

I put a K&N drop-in filter into my 93 20 years ago and have had no issues. I do have my intake tube tear once after the body lift and I did have to replace the filter once when I submerged the front of my truck in a mudhole and the mud clogged the filter. Saved the MAF and engine thought trashed the filter element. A true snorkel would be a true cool air intake, but my truck would quit running if the water ever got up over my fenders anyway. ECU's do not like getting flooded and I am not going to go through the hassle of moving mine from its place under the passenger seat. It was bad enough swapping the HVAC control head and stereo locations. Wish my 93 had a double din opening like the 94 on has. 

you do have a point i never thought of that actually. But what if the intake was moved to be "colder" then where the stock one is, and also had a high airflow filter? I don't know much about intakes and what not so might as well ask now lol

[Do the windshields have antennas in them?]

14 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

My '93 came with the diversity setup. Line in the windshield, power antenna in the fender. My head unit isn't set up for two antennas, so it only uses the one on the fender. Works fine, not that I use it often (radio here sucks too).

Spotify is the way tro go. So might as well use that if possible

[Are cold air intakes worth it?]

I want to put a cold air intake/high air flow on my 97. Are they worth it on these engines or not at all? If they are good on these engines/cars what about them makes it worth it, and what brands/models are the best. But if they are not worth it, why exactly? 

[What did you do to your Pathfinder today?]

bought a hitch for it. its off of a 2012 rav4 so im going to cut it up and make my own bumper with the actual hitch slot part. i got a great deal on it its a curt mfg class 5 hitch for 20 bucks

[1997 Pathfinder gauge cluster bulb socket/base]

28 minutes ago, chrisfromthelc said:

I fixed the tach on my 1997 today (the board inside the tach was poorly "repaired", so I had to make a jumper to bypass the burned trace). I noticed a few bulbs are missing from the tach. I tried swapping around to the blank spots, and they all light up as expected when you flip the key on, so I can't imagine they were left off from the factory. Ironically, the CEL was *not* one of the missing bulbs.

Anyhow, where can I find these smaller bulb bases I have marked in green here? They appear to be smaller than the 74 sized base bulbs for the general illumination. The guide here suggests that they're 74s, but I think that's because they're going off of a 2001.5 model.

Anyone know the proper size for this, and for extra bonus points, where I can get them in LEDs?

(on a side note, if anyone has a spare housing/lens that's undamaged, I tripped over the cat while taking it out to the truck to reinstall, and cracked the corner of the lens. I'd be willing to buy it from you to replace it)

by the looks of what i could find these should be the ones but don't quote me on that. If you want a different option heres another. it says it SHOULD fit pathfrinder aswell even though they are listed for toyota. but i would go with my first option personally 

 

[Do the windshields have antennas in them?]

42 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

I don’t know much more than what I posted. I would google car diversity antennas

it is for the radio nothing else

[Do the windshields have antennas in them?]

46 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

Many R50s have what’s called a diversity antenna in the front windshield. This is in addition to the whip antenna and is meant to improve signal capture. You can see it running up the midline of the windshield. As an FYI, you can see these in many other vehicles though they often put them in the cargo area side windows (they are those things which look like defrosters on the cargo area windows of 4Runners & other vehicles).

 

Can I go with out this antenna then. Like my keyless remote won’t just stop working. All it will do is lessen my radio signal (I use Spotify radio sucks here)?

[Do the windshields have antennas in them?]

On my 97 SE I have to get the windshield replaced. I called a few places and all of them asked about antennas and I said no because I didn’t think there were. But I got to my shop and looked closely at it and noticed an orange line coming from the centre of the glass. It goes from top to bottom then shoots over to the driver side and that’s all there is. Do I have the antenna in my windshield? And if so what is it even for? 

[LED fog light install]

1 hour ago, RF600 said:

Thus isn't necessarily hard core. More like soft core.

 

Anyway I have a 95 pathfinder and I really dislike the fog lights. We do get fog here but they really don't do anything. 

 

I had purchased these a couple years back for a custom bumper build wanted to do. So far that hasnt happened, so i figured I would put them in the factory position.

 

I probably could have moved them a bit more outward, but not much. I had some expanded metal left over so that's what I used to cover up the open areas. 

 

I would say it's a 5 foot bumper. From 5 feet away it looks good. I didn't take the time to make everything smooth and fancy. I wanted them useable. We all know the factory headlights leave a lot to be desired in terms of light output.

 

These were $50 each if I remember correctly. They are spots,  not fogs.  I needed more light output. You can't even tell the headlights are on with them on sitting in the rig.

 

I can't get a pic small enough to upload. I closed photobucket because of the pricing. I don't have any other way to upload the pic unless I can turn the resolution down on my phone and take another pic? 

 

Any ideas? 

not to sure on ideas but imgur is a great way to upload photos you just add the link to the post 

[What's one thing you hate about your pathy?]

spark plug #6 and the oil filter location. everything i hate is engine bay related lmao

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

52 minutes ago, chrisfromthelc said:

I'm super spoiled with that, too.

I got irrationally angry about something that was supposed to arrive the next day and was delayed. Actually...still hasn't gotten here; it's going on 4 days late at this point (just some bulbs for the wife's vehicle).

Thanks for the welcome!

you have the luxury i do not lmao and yeah no problem. i love this community and so does thousands of other people so why not make it even better

 

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

1 hour ago, chrisfromthelc said:

Just an update, this set I purchased at Amazon worked great. The battery was dead in one, but I have spares always hanging around from my other vehicles. Once I had good batteries in both, they synced right up.

good to hear you got your issue solved but im quite mad you ordered something on amazon and it came that day. sucks living in a small town in British Columbia Canada haha. I also noticed you had just joined the pathfinder community and i wanted to welcome you and hope you have great adventures to come with your pathy!

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

57 minutes ago, TroyButler said:

My 97 QX4 did not come with fobs either but i bought one on Ebay and it works pretty good. The locks on my vehicle are a bit messed up and sometime the fob takes a couple clicks to open the rear doors but overall im happy with it

 

This is the one i bought i believe: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Replacement-for-Infiniti-97-99-QX4-Mercury-99-02-Villager-Remote-Car-Key-Fob/191892726290?hash=item2cadb2a212:g:rg4AAOSwskha-uFp&vxp=mtr

All pathfinders and QX4 take a few clicks to unlock the rear. 1 is driver and then after a few seconds the second click is all the rest so. Its normal

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

7 minutes ago, chrisfromthelc said:

Looks like Amazon has ones that are compatible for $29 that I can get today to try. I did check for the relay as well in the spot marked Keyless Entry, and it's present, so that seems to confirm that it's keyless-ready.

I wouldn't personally buy of amazon since sometimes stuff like this has misinfo about what it supports. I'm not saying all the time but possibly. Give it a try though you can always return to amazon for free with refund.

 

Make sure that they come with the electronics and batteries, it might just be the casing

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

I'm no expert on pathfinders as i am just starting out with mine but i think any info is good info aslong as its not completely wrong and way off. From what i can see that looks like it may be for the remotes and I would just say screw it and get a remote and try to program it. Make sure though its for the 96-98 as the r50s after that use different remotes like the 99 ,99.5 and 00 has different ids or what ever. Obviously anyone else the replies with a better answer then mine should be given credit to their knowledge.

[Keyless entry on 1997?]

From what i've seen all r50 models came with key-less remotes. I have yet to see anything saying other wise. Mine does have the remotes and it is too a 97 SE. It doesn't hurt asking the person you bought this from if it had the remotes at some point and had just lost them. If that's the case then this remote should do the trick if you want new remotes. (NOTE: yes they do say infiniti remotes but they work on pretty much all nissan cars from that era and the 96-98 pathfinders)

[New Electrical Issue]

16 hours ago, ryjaytay38 said:

Hey guys,

This is pretty random, but I hope someone can give me some advice. Recently, my bose stereo died-well it didn't die but I'm getting no sound out of the speakers. I've looked online and there are a few different things people are saying. 1) There's a loose wire and when it grounds, the amp goes into protect mode and shuts down. Every now and then, it turns on for no reason-no sharp turn, no hitting some bumps-just whenever it wants, then shuts down again after about 10 seconds. 2)another option- The head unit is shot. 3) Fuses(checked them all) but it wouldn't turn back on if that were the case. I'm leaning toward #1 but I have no clue where to start.

Now on top of that, last night, I stopped at a light and all my dash lights came on just like when my alternator died a year ago from a little too much power steering fluid dripping on it. That is fixed now. By the time I got to the house, dash lights were off and all was good. Left for work this morning and no lights and ran totally normal. Same tonight-normal. Had alternator, battery, and starter tested at Autozone and all  were perfect. Does anyone know where I could start? Do you think they have anything to do with one another? I'm ok mechanically, but when it comes to electrical stuff, I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Any ideas of where to look, start, anything would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!  

honestly my guess is just the fact that the unit might be shot. i have no idea where you wold start either but stuff like that doesnt just happen so i would check the unit or see if any wires behind the dash are broken

[Wheres can i punch through the fire wall?]

Just now, colinnwn said:

Interesting. I never found another clean way through the dash.

From the driver wheel well, I ran them down to the lower door frame, down the inside of the side step to the back, near the trailing arm, and around the rear drivers wheel well, right to where my 4 way connector already was on the left back side.

I ran it in 3/8 in wire loom for extra protection.

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I was just going to run conduit to the back some where but i wasn't sure where a good spot would be out of the way of things

[Wheres can i punch through the fire wall?]

42 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

How big of a hole do you need? For my electric brake controller on my 2001, I found a knock out rubber plug about an inch outboard of the hood cable release into the driver wheel well. I routed the wires behind the plastic splash guard and into the under hood area through the large pass through.

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Same reason, a brake controller lol. I found my way to go through dash to engine bay but how did you run your wires to the rear?

[Wheres can i punch through the fire wall?]

2 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

You can go up through the gap in the back of the  hood and just run it into your door from there, no need to punch holes. But it’s not the cleanest look to have wires exposed when you open the door

For something like that its functional with no added work so im happy. Only ill notice it so it can just bug my ocd lmao. Thanks 

[Wheres can i punch through the fire wall?]

Where is the best spot to go through the fire wall on the 97 R50? I've heard that the clutch cover is good but i have a standard so theres kinda a clutch pedal there. Where else would be a good spot to route wires from the cab to the engine bay if not the fire wall. Any spot is a good spot right now so any and all info on this is helpful.

[Has anyone done any performance mods on the 3.3?]

2 hours ago, Inyourface1650 said:

 

The VG33E is a good motor, but not a powerful one.  I'd just run it stock and enjoy the reliability - or trade out your truck for a VQ35DE year (2000+), the market really doesn't differentiate too much on price, and you get 80 more horsepower. 

As i said im not going to play with it too much. ill probably throw on an intake and maybe a few other things along those lines. i just was curious as to what is possible with these engines