Sjackson2
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Posts posted by Sjackson2
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3 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:
I am in search of the same answer if it’s pertains to the VG33 as well
Vg33 have an iacv also
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Ac coils up front by 4x4parts.com and Land Rover nrc9447 coils in back from lrdirect.com. The Brit part brand ones. This setup will run about 300 shipped. Get kyb gr2 shocks and struts from rockauto. This will run about another 120
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Nice looking Q. Love the yellow corner lights
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Do the pcv valve and pcv hoses while in there. They’re probably going to shatter
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Do those powervalves while you’re in there too
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I used a closed end wrench to remove that one in my 01 Q
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Same problem for me in AZ. I have an hour drive home from work every day and have the blower on high/re-circ the entire drive and still get home sweaty
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Next most beneficial mod after the lift is gonna be manual hubs
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First off...you need to service the powervalve screws by backing them out and applying loctite to them. There’s a known issue where they can fall into the motor and cause catastrophic damage. The iacv gasket should also be replaced to avoid frying the ecu. Also....join the npora Facebook group. Far more activity on There. As far as rear coils....I’d go with wj coils or Land Rover coils. Depending on which Land Rover coils you get they will net you anywhere from 2 to four inches and are muuuuuch cheaper than ac with similar spring rates. If you’re gonna do an sfd....you won’t need front spacers as you’ll be building steel spacers as part of the sfd. Ac coils would work just fine for the front and lots of people use them with up to 6 inches of total lift
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Those are the exact ones I just bought
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Way cool guys. Can’t wait till this stuff starts becoming available. I’m super interested in the lift your coming up with that won’t require an sfd
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Dammit! Everybody has a cool bumper but me! Lol
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1 hour ago, mjotrainbrain said:
When I left mine exposed I got an intake full of water rather easily. I'd suggest ditching it, plugging up the hole in the bottom of the airbox, and putting a new hole (covered with mesh) on the top of the airbox. Should be nice and safe from water intrusion that way without having to buy an expensive snorkel.
I would go this route too. And yes....all r50s have that piece
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Raybestos makes a good brake pad. I’ve never used that specific pad....but I’ve used raybestos pads on lots of vehicles over the years
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Leave it there. Get a snorkel and ditch it. Or build some sort of cover for it
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Engine should be at the highest point. The bleeder nipple is at the back of the motor near the firewall sticking up behind the intake plenum. It has a rubber cap on it. Heater fan should be blowing on hot/high
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I also removed some weight and drag by ditching the running boards and the roof rack and getting rid of the rear spoiler
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29 minutes ago, Astrorami said:
I wonder if your higher gas mileage has anything to do with your car being 2WD??
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI’m sure it does in part. But if you had manual hubs that were unlocked it should be close
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Park on a steep incline. Open radiator cap. Remove rubber cap on coolant bleeder nipple on back of motor. Turn engine on. Pour coolant into rad until it flows out if bleeder nipple. Cap nipple. Continue to add coolant until full. Put cap back on. Drive for awhile. Let cool down. Check level. Add more if needed
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After replacing all four o2 sensors, spark plugs and coils, advancing timing two degrees, new maf, cleaned throttle body, cleaned and adjusted tps, cleaned iacv, new pcv valve and hoses, replaced several cracked vacuum lines, replaced air intake elbow with custom elbow, new filters all around, tires at 39 psi I get about 19-20 freeway and 17 or so around town.
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1 hour ago, TroyButler said:
Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road.
Pretend these slashes are your tires
Neutral camber: I
Negative Camber: /
Postitive Camber: \
With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge.
With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering)
Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative.
I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars.
Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts
I got mine from amazon for 18.99
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51 minutes ago, Strato_54 said:
you do have a point i never thought of that actually. But what if the intake was moved to be "colder" then where the stock one is, and also had a high airflow filter? I don't know much about intakes and what not so might as well ask now lol
Then that would be beneficial. Best way to do that on an r50 is with a snorkel
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Get your kybs from rockauto. Won’t find a better price. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,suspension,strut,7584. No such thing as longer struts that I’m aware of that wouldn’t require serious modification. You won’t need longer ones for 2.5 inches of lift though. And don’t replace the control arms. Aftermarket ones are junk. Just replace the bushings with poly https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nolathane-Trailing-Arm-Lower-Bushing-FOR-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-R50-46045/283156264183?fits=Model%3APathfinder&epid=2294724819&hash=item41ed6db4f7:g:kkAAAOSwk~VcvjZO
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What can be read from the OBD-II?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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If you use torque pro you can monitor airflow, coolant temp, o2 sensors, timing, maf, intake temp, speed, fuel trims, and a bunch of other stuff. Car gauge pro allows you to do the idle volume and self learning and adjust base timing 2 degrees plus or minus. You can do a ton of stuff