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Sjackson2

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Posts posted by Sjackson2

  1. First off...you need to service the powervalve screws by backing them out and applying loctite to them. There’s a known issue where they can fall into the motor and cause catastrophic damage. The iacv gasket should also be replaced to avoid frying the ecu. Also....join the npora Facebook group. Far more activity on There. As far as rear coils....I’d go with wj coils or Land Rover coils. Depending on which Land Rover coils you get they will net you anywhere from 2 to four inches and are muuuuuch cheaper than ac with similar spring rates. If you’re gonna do an sfd....you won’t need front spacers as you’ll be building steel spacers as part of the sfd. Ac coils would work just fine for the front and lots of people use them with up to 6 inches of total lift 

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, mjotrainbrain said:

    When I left mine exposed I got an intake full of water rather easily. I'd suggest ditching it, plugging up the hole in the bottom of the airbox, and putting a new hole (covered with mesh) on the top of the airbox. Should be nice and safe from water intrusion that way without having to buy an expensive snorkel.

    I would go this route too. And yes....all r50s have that piece 

  3. 29 minutes ago, Astrorami said:


    I wonder if your higher gas mileage has anything to do with your car being 2WD??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I’m sure it does in part. But if you had manual hubs that were unlocked it should be close 

  4. Park on a steep incline. Open radiator cap. Remove rubber cap on coolant bleeder nipple on back of motor. Turn engine on. Pour coolant into rad until it flows out if bleeder nipple. Cap nipple. Continue to add coolant until full. Put cap back on. Drive for awhile. Let cool down. Check level. Add more if needed 

  5. After replacing all four o2 sensors, spark plugs and coils, advancing timing two degrees, new maf, cleaned throttle body, cleaned and adjusted tps, cleaned iacv, new pcv valve and hoses, replaced several cracked vacuum lines, replaced air intake elbow with custom elbow, new filters all around, tires at 39 psi I get about 19-20 freeway and 17 or so around town. 

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, TroyButler said:

    Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road.

    Pretend these slashes are your tires

     

    Neutral camber: I

    Negative Camber: /

    Postitive Camber:  \

     

    With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge. 

     

    With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering)

     

    Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative. 

     

    I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars.

     

    Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts

    I got mine from amazon for 18.99

    • Like 1
  7. 51 minutes ago, Strato_54 said:

    you do have a point i never thought of that actually. But what if the intake was moved to be "colder" then where the stock one is, and also had a high airflow filter? I don't know much about intakes and what not so might as well ask now lol

    Then that would be beneficial. Best way to do that on an r50 is with a snorkel 

    • Like 1
  8. Get your kybs from rockauto. Won’t find a better price. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,suspension,strut,7584. No such thing as longer struts that I’m aware of that wouldn’t require serious modification. You won’t need longer ones for 2.5 inches of lift though. And don’t replace the control arms. Aftermarket ones are junk. Just replace the bushings with poly https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nolathane-Trailing-Arm-Lower-Bushing-FOR-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-R50-46045/283156264183?fits=Model%3APathfinder&epid=2294724819&hash=item41ed6db4f7:g:kkAAAOSwk~VcvjZO

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