Sjackson2
-
Posts
418 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Sjackson2
-
-
Very nice work bud!!
-
1
-
-
ive already removed the rear two a couple times while making the o2 simulators for them. just seemed weird that all of a sudden the front 2 are throwing codes as well
-
21 minutes ago, cham said:
That would make sense because in the end it's about the lateral stiffness which most any bar has, not the bar's ability to resist shear or a bending moment. A conduit sounds like the perfect fit then.
I kind of like CNAM's version though for it's simplicity to fab and look. Any thoughts? Could it be the reason for some feeling more of a difference than others due to the simple fact that the bar itself is stronger and more rigid which lets it fight better against torsion and lateral forces? I'm more than likely overthinking it, there's a very high possibility it'll be the same no matter what it used as long as it's torqued correctly.
I cant see the link from work so when i get home ill take a look and let you know what i think. Ill try to post a pic of mine too. Its just a 24 inch piece of angled steel. It's pretty sturdy...definitely sturdier than conduit....but i dont imagine it would be strong enough to stop the engine from dropping either
-
17 minutes ago, cham said:
I'm planning on attempting this probably this weekend. Anyone else at all concerned about the possible head-on collision factor? I read on another thread the potential for the engine to not drop far enough in the event of a collision.
I would be concerned about that with some of the heavier duty ones like the jackson motorsports one....but with something like conduit with the ends crushed...i seriously doubt it could prevent the motor from not dropping back. if it could id be seriously impressed
-
Ok....so ive been getting all kinds of O2 codes recently. until yesterday.....i was getting bank 1 and 2 sensor t20 high voltage codes and a bank 1 sensor 2 insufficient code. Now yesterday i pulled them again and im getting codes for both banks sensor 1 as well! What the hell man know the tsb for the grounding harness doesnt apply to the 01's....but ive made my own engine block ground harness and installed it anyways. i have new o2 sensors for both bank rear sensors on the way....but what are the odds both of the pre cat sensors are bad now too? The truck has a lot of miles and i dont know if theyve ever been changed....but whats the likelihood of them all going bad at once? The light first came on about two months ago. Both rear sensors have spark plug non foulers on them because they were originally getting codes for cats being insufficient as well and the non foulers took care of those...but im still getting the rest
-
Did you get the new rubber insulator as well?
-
On 2/6/2019 at 6:22 PM, cham said:
I have an 02 LE, that means I definitely have the unserviceable o rings?
I believe so. Just pop the hood and look at them. Are they aluminum, or black plastic? If they’re plastic they’re not serviceable. Not without a hole saw and some patience anyways
-
On 9/16/2011 at 2:28 PM, sewebster said:
I'm the moron I guess. I'm not saying that removing the shields is going to instantly kill anything, but I'm pretty sure the temperature of stuff in the engine compartment will rise a bit. So, for instance, insulation on wires near the exhaust could become brittle faster etc. Or it could be that the Nissan engineers put them in solely to frustrate you. I doubt they were too concerned with the resistance change due to temperature, they just picked the shields/manifolds as a convenient place to add some grounds since they stick out.
So this is a super old thread but i thought id comment here as ive seen these questions and issues a lot about these grounds, and people having o2 sensor issues. thes grounds are not here as an arbitrary location because it was easy. The o2 sensors ground themselves through the exhaust that they are screwed into....however, exhausts are usually suspended by rubber mounts to reduce vibration and noise. this severely nhbits the ability for good grounding. These straps are added to help the o2 sensors achieve good ground. This wont always cause a problem if they are not attached....but it is highly possible. Especailly in older vehicles or o2 sensors with a lot of mileage on them
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, micahfelker said:
I've had one for quite some time now and to tell the truth I don't really notice it. They're honestly over-hyped if you ask me, but there's really no reason not to do it seeing as to how easy it is. Granted, I did put it in at the same time as I put in new rear springs and shocks, so the car definitely felt different after, but the link itself didn't really stand out specifically.
Was the difference mind blowing? No. But for 6 dollars and an hours worth of work I’ve nevwr done a better mod to my truck. The difference in body roll while cornering on a particular tight freeway turn is very noticeable. I’m super happy with mine
-
1
-
-
The o-rings are not serviceable on vq motors with the plastic valve covers. depending on when your 01 was manufactured...it may come with the aluminum covers which are serviceable. my 01 qx4 manufactured in 05/01 has the aluminum covers which are serviceable
-
i know this is an old thread but just thought id throw it out there that the IACV shorting out due to coolant getting into it is a known cause for frying ecm's in 01 r50's
-
1
-
-
Im having a helluva time trying to figure out what bulbs i can use to replace the dash bulbs in my 01 qx4. I have one or two out in the hvac control as well. from what ive read it seems like the bulb is a 74, but im also seeing that post facelift 01 qx4 cant use led bulbs? Anybody know?
-
13 minutes ago, colinnwn said:
How hard were putting in the sway bar links and bushings? Do you need a shop press or torch?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Sway bar links is technically a very easy job. Remove wheel. Remove two link nuts, replace. However....one nut on each side was seized and rounded off on me. I just cut them off with a sawzall since my new link came with new hardware. Didn’t take me too long. The sway bar bushings are easy as well. No press required. They are split so you just slip them over the bar and replace the mounts. 20 minutes job. Just make sure and soak everything in pb blaster a couple times a day or two in advance to get them off easier
-
2
-
-
New sway bar links, bushings, and a homemade missing link have completely eliminated the clunking I was having while cornering on freeway ramps or pulling up into my elevated driveway. I think I spent 30 bucks total on all parts and the handling is much improved
-
I cut off my resonator and used a downturn to exit my exhaust out under the right tire. You can’t see it from behind the vehicle. No noticeable change in volume. I’ve just ordered a chambered muffler from amazon “thrush” and will be installing it soon. I’ll let you know how it works out
-
On 12/20/2018 at 10:19 PM, PathyDude17 said:
As a follow up, I went through on this approach to the missing link. Definitely added some sturdiness to my ride, and I’m very pleased with it for what it cost
Just a heads up....they guy that owns jackson motor sports has stated that that was their original prototype and it works pretty much as well as the one they were selling. I made one last week from 6 dollars worth of 1 1/4 angled steel. It’s working great and is one of the better mods I’ve done to my pathy
-
1
-
Cleaned MAF sensor tripped code
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
What year is your truck?