Sjackson2
-
Posts
418 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Sjackson2
-
-
drivers side o2 sensor replaced. Came out super easy. Took almost no force to remove it
-
I drew a crappy pic of the plenum on some cardboard and pushed all the bolts into it in their corresponding places o I could put them back where hey go later as they are different lengths
-
Lower plenum off
-
upper plenum removed
-
Ok so I decided to tackle both front o2 sensors today as well as doing the loctite on the powervalves and replacing the etc sensor.
-
Spray it down with on blaster and clamp a vice grip on it and spin it out
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, QuasarDecimari said:
Their website doesn’t say too much about what it actually does or hooks up to, but it does mention altering some sort of sensor signal. If I had to guess, they’re likely similar to the “Innovative Power Programmer” chip available for the Pathfinder through Amazon. I got one a long time ago, back when I first got the pathfinder, hoping to squeeze out a little more MPG, but it was worthless.
When I did it, I didn’t know much about cars, so I didn’t know much about what it did. It said to splice into the wiring for the intake air temperature sensor, and the chip will tune from there.
With the knowledge I have now, really all that chip was doing was telling the engine computer that it was colder outside than it is, making it dump more fuel. In turn, maybe you got a little more power, but it didn’t seem enough to really change mpg. I don’t think the pathfinder relies on the IAT as much as some other vehicles, but I could be wrong...
I wonder if I still have it sitting around somewhere, because I could probably take it apart at work and analyze the electronics, see what its really doing with the voltage provided to it
I believe those are basically just resistors that like you said, make the ecu believe it is receiving colder air
-
1
-
-
I’d be pretty skeptical about putting something like that on when there’s no shop you can go back to if it causes you issues. You have no idea who performed the tune or what they tuned it to
-
2
-
-
7 minutes ago, joshrichard said:
I’m just gonna make one, I almost bought one a couple weeks ago but decided I didn’t want to pay an extra $100 for something I can do for $10Exactly...and John jackson from jackson motors ports who built the original prototype said that the conduit was just as good as his. The only reason he built his is so it could be a mounting point for a skid plate
-
1
-
-
Go with this one. Cheap on amazon, free shipping with prime. And links up great. Use the torque pro or car gauge pro app with it. If you go with the car gauge app you can do the self learn and idle volume learn with it as well as adjusting base timing by plus or minus two degrees
-
1
-
-
If I was gonna pull the pump off a truck this old, is probably replace the fan clutch too.
-
1
-
-
I used permatex rtv per the fsm
-
10 minutes ago, joshrichard said:
Do you have measurements for this?The bar should be 23 3/4 long. Holes are about 22.5 inches apart
-
1
-
1
-
-
I just think the capacitor is a band aid for a larger overall problem. There’s no reason that the factory alternator shouldn’t be able to handle the draw from an electric fan. Something else is going on and a capacitor will just mask it
-
1
-
-
34 minutes ago, colinnwn said:
Interesting on the coolant bypass. You think it is unlikely to cause problems by bypassing?
What specifically about the fuse do you think is a bad idea? Just another potential failure point?
I sorta have the same concern about the coolant bypass. But if others have done it successfully, then I guess it is worth doing. If I ran into icing in the valve, I should be able to get it underway with some careful manipulation of the throttle pedal if it dawns on me what is going on.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I know it’s unlikely to cause problems. Unless you live somewhere very cold maybe. Tons of owners have done it, myself included. The only time the coolant does you any good is on startup anyways. And yes....I don’t like the idea of splicing into the wiring
-
and I’d look into testing and getting a new alternator before I put caps iine to the fan
-
1 hour ago, colinnwn said:
I can watch the voltage pretty much constantly on my Scan Gauge, and I have a "Battery Bug" that monitors voltage constantly including during starts, and the voltage is within normal range. The battery bug says I have 70% battery life (not battery charge). I would trust that testing in-situ more than the crappy battery load testing equipment at most auto stores. So I'm fairly certain it is fine.
I did some research and found this on the relearn process
Based on that, I don't have the pre-condition to need an idle volume relearn. The shop I took it to for the valve cover replacement has a stellar reputation. It is idling so smoothly now, I wouldn't be surprised if they actually did the relearn. If I didn't have an electric fan, this wouldn't even be happening. It's the surge of electric power demanded by the fan startup, potentially exacerbated by my rebuilt alternator that can supply more power to the battery to replace it, at the expense of the engine power surge.
It is also possible my IACV motor is getting marginal or clogged. But it is very strange this occurred suddenly and exactly after a shop visit, where everything else related to engine idling smoothness improved so drastically at the same time.
I was vaguely aware that if the IACV ingested coolant as it aged and died, that it could burn out your ECU. So I had been wondering about replacing it proactively. It is a little expensive to do that. The cost is similar to an ECU repair if it did fry it, the only downside would be waiting on the turnaround of the ECU repair or trying to do it myself.
When the weather is better I will probably remove and inspect the IACV. I also found this thread where someone recommends putting a 1-5 amp fuse (I assume it would need to be a fast-blow fuse) inline with the IACV and it might prevent it from frying your ECU if your IACV ever does go out.
I would not use the fuse. Just bypass the coolant line to the throttle body and you’ll never have to worry about coolant leaking into your iacv. And definitely clean it out.
-
Failing to start the car, and still having sufficient voltage are two different things. Get it checked.
No it does not require a consult scanner. Depending on the year of your vehicle there are two different methods
-
6 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:
I just wanted to add to what @hawairish stated and fill you all in on some details.
We want to provide comprehensive R50 specific aftermarket support. Aside from SFD's and trailing arms we've been developing accessories and solutions to other areas of the truck like modular rooftop and interior storage, rooftop access, front and rear bumpers, driveline upgrades and much more. Like @hawairish mentioned we have been very fortunate to have the support of some willing members of this community who are using our initial products and we encourage those folks to review them here.
We both are working fulltime jobs so the process has been slow but steadily ramping up. 2019 is going to be packed so stay tuned for more updates!
One quick note-
We recently acquired @ferrariowner123 2003 LE and will be using that in the development of our products. Big thanks to him for adding a crucial element to this equation!
I’m by no means a master fabricator....but I love tinkering and I’m super pumped to see some cool things come out for our pathys. If you guys ever need help with anything at all, I literally live a block from hawairish and would be happy to assist. Do you guys plan to do mostly frame and suspension related parts...or are any other items in the works? It’d be great to see some things like cold air boxes, snorkels and snorkel mounts, pre dabbed trans cooler brackets. I’m hoping to get some cardboard and some plastic or aluminum sheeting pretty soon here to mock up a cold air box and I’d like to do a trans cooler soon too.
-
2
-
-
Is your battery up to snuff? Have you done the idle volume relearn? Cleaned out the iacv? I would do all these before I started trying to mess with the idle
-
What tranny cooler is everyone running? I’ve seen a lot of wools like the b&m. What about Hayden? Anybody using this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0714MSVWH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3B850ZGIPDG3A&psc=1
-
On 4/16/2018 at 12:36 PM, hawairish said:
Ok, things are installed-ish, finally. I must've missed the part where the spring ID was close, but not quite, OE ID. It's like 4.9" vs 4.7" ID. Sits a little high (0.25"?) on the lower coil perch, and I needed to mill the inner seat of my coil spacers in order to re-use them.
Without my rear bumper on, the 9448's and 2" spacers netted about 3.25" lift over my previous setup w/ OME MD springs. As it sits right now, I need a 6.5" PHB drop to level the bar, suggesting these are good for about 4". Going to make a 6" drop bracket tonight and let a custom bumper bring it down a little more.
OME HDs up front lifted another 1.5" after bumper, winch, and skid installs. I'm cool with the 1.75" extra lift in the rear because the previous setup sagged a little in the rear, especially when loaded with family and gear. There's a bit of a rake unloaded, but it should sit nicely when it's loaded up. I have enough wheel clearance for my kids (4 and 5) to crawl atop the tire under the wheel wells now. Time to start wearing down these 32's faster...
Haven't taken it for a test drive yet, of course, because the PHB is disconnected. I've always liked the ride on the truck, but I could tell it was getting softer. Had to modify the rear KYB shocks to get them to fit, and hopefully that effort was worth it. Installing the springs this time around was a real pain.
I'll get some pics up once I'm able to get it out of the garage.
Will al LR springs need milled to install, or was it just the 9448 for some reason?
*edit*
nevermind. Saw that they fit without milling
-
9447 is the lowest amount of lift
-
1
-
-
Perfect!! Thanks a ton.
Did a buncha stuff today
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted