Sjackson2
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Posts posted by Sjackson2
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9 hours ago, Cbiggy said:
Would that be an np300 version? And does it fit to the factory airbox on the 3.5?
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But a d22 navara snorkel from amazon. Comes with everything you need and fits the r50 just right
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4 hours ago, bodman said:
Get KYB's instead or spend a little more and consider Bilsteins.
There are no bilstein struts for r50s. Only bilstein shocks
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You can fit a ten inch wheel on there just fine. The tires however could rub on the strut tower. You may end up needing a 1 inch or so wheel spacer to clear them. And without a lift, it’s probable that you’ll need a bit of wheel well and bumper trimming, but nothing dramatic
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So what codes are you still getting? Just the 1140 and 1145? Also, try removing and cleaning the cramp position sensors
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15 hours ago, prmanke1232 said:
I would stay away from them unless you're broke and going for the cheapest shock around. Next worse is Rancho.
Just an opinion.
I've been using Bilstein for over 30 years on alot of different cars from Alfa's , Mercedes, Volvo, Nissan etc. Never had to replace one or had them wear out early.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
There is no bilstein strut for the r50. OME is gonna be the best option, kyb is a not so distant second
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I would use the oreilly scanner to delete it
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5 hours ago, andrewf said:
Thanks for all the responses. Yeah, I looked in the air box but I didn’t see anything. Should probably look again though.
About a new one...I’ve found from researching this site that the part number for the Maxima one that works is part #22680-2Y001. I’m going to rush order one of these today and hopefully fix this issue.
And yes this part works and is hella cheaper. I’ve had an 01 maxima maf on my 01 Q for the last 20k miles
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18 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Huh. Yeah, that does kinda look like something's missing, and I think I see stubs where it would've attached. Looks like a thermistor or something in the oreally listing (and the listings on Rockauto). Hopefully the engine chewed it up and spat it out without issue. Seems odd that it would've come completely off, though. I would've expected one leg to fail before the other (assuming they failed from vibration or something), and that should've coded right then, not waited for it to fall completely off. Maybe it fell out when you removed the sensor? I'd check the intake tube and the airbox to see if you can find it. Otherwise, new sensor, send it, hope for the best.
It is for a thermistor, however, the 01 oem maf does not have a thermistor. So this is an aftermarket part of some sort. Maybe the person who installed it cut it off since it wasn’t necessary
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Get a new one for an 01 Nissan Maxima, driver swap and hella cheaper than a Nissan one. I would NOT use anything other than an oem Nissan part to replace this. Aftermarket mafs always have issues
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I’d really steer clear of cutting the coils
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Poly bushings to fit the bilstein shocks are definitely available
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Looks awesome on those 35s
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You guys have access to so much more cool stuff for pathys out there
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On 2/4/2020 at 1:41 AM, jtchal said:
The Lr coils will settle
down another half inch or so, it really, you need 2 inches of lift up front to match the Le coil. You could always do a half inch spacers up front to even it out a bit
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On 10/27/2019 at 10:59 AM, spicyheckboi said:
So to date this is what ive got goin:
Relocated knock sensor to front center of engine.
Started with 2" spacers and ended with nrc9448 springs some Bilstein 33185569 5125 shocks for the rear. (Still havent drilled a new panhard bar hole so my axle sits half an inch to the left).
The front also had spacers first but once the stock struts finally went i went down the speedwaymotor rabbit hole and purchased trucoil purple racing springs with 250 pound per inch compression and a spacer for it to sit onin the new strut, allowing us to cut off the extra large seating for the stock spring and have more room for tire there and not just a sketchy quarter inch. All of which i learned from[mention=40517]Bax03SE[/mention] as he did it first. Only thing i did different was avoid sfd by taking off my old spacers. I might put one inch back on bc i can so why not at some point.
I wouldve left my running boards on had half the bolts not looked like they were going to fall off any minute. Theyre strong and when in good shape make for some good extra protection. Id like to fit some actual steel rock sliders at some point somehow.
Ive taken off all of the bumper covers and fender flares for rust repair and everything off the rear stayed off its still off i have no rear bumper. Oh well . ill put one on when I find a way im pleased with. I left the metal bumper inside on the front and held harbor frieght lights on it for a long time while i worked on the brackets to fit a TJ wrangler to the front which just went on two weeks ago now i wanna say.
Ive put manual hubs on the front and changed both cvs as the originals were torn and not clicking. So i purchased a kit to rebuild them. I also found that ultra black gasket maker will fix a small one inch tear near the clamp. Btw if the cvs have never been done SCREW THOSE BOLTS ON THE DIFF SIDE holy cr@p i cracked two 12 mm sockets on that 16 year old locktite(?).
Up next:
Next week im doing a drain and fill with some good ole nissan matic d for the tranny and hopefully by then ill have figured out which is the actual correct fluid for my tc. I have the stick shift tc and manuals ive seen online have said either the matic d or 75w90 will work. But that its ok for both. That doesnt make sense? If it does pls enlighten me.
Diff fluids get changed next month too any recomemdations there would also be good.
New lights up front with the dang clamps. ..if i have to.. id prefer to use the two tabs i have at the very top or maybe utilize the single ones i have that almost line up with where the original stock fog lights were. Which i also still have but the tabs broke on one of them i believe.
That whole rear bumper not being there situation will be dealt with at some point.
Ive also been thinking of a cb because thats probably important but im just not quite sold on it.
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
I think they look better without the oem running boards anyways
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I’m running 245/70/17 right now on my 2
inch lifted Q and I seriously doubt you could go any larger at oem height without doing some trimming
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I made my own for way cheaper
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On 3/10/2020 at 4:32 PM, AlwaysWrenching said:
What method did you use to remove the old bushings? I don't have a press and tried to cut the bushing the then use a punch and hammer. Most came out ok. But I damaged the end of one of my control arms with the saw. Not terribly. Its questionably usable, but that was far below what I was aiming for. Any tips on getting the bushings out?
Lots of burning and cutting
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Wouldn’t the cam lobe pointing inwards on the top bolt cause it to push the upper part outwards causing additional positive camber? I.e the top of the tire being pushed out farther than the bottom?
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Top hole. Washer tab towards engine can lobe towards wheel is how I installed them
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Just to clarify, when installing camber bolts to correct positive camber due to a 2 inch lift, the washer tab should point towards the engine with the cam bolt lobe pointing towards the tire, correct? Just installed a set and I still seem to have some positive camber. So making sure I did it right? Or I’ll just need another pair for the bottom bolt holes
R50 Snorkel
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
It sits slightly off the pillar due to being for a different vehicle, but it’s really not noticeable if you don’t know it’s there. Click here for a pic
https://www.google.com/search?q=d22+navara+snorkel+on+pathfinder&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS766US766&hl=en-US&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj49pP-rf3oAhXXo54KHXaJCaQQ_AUoAnoECA4QAg&biw=414&bih=722&dpr=2#imgrc=H-9eQX9cusOFMM&imgdii=QvCyjWnbbjL2lM