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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Gray 1990 TD21t
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    Terrano R3m
  • Year

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  1. Hey everyone, has anyone experience on taking out the rear door lock from first gen. Terrano/Pathfinder? What I would like to specifically know - should I undo the screws first and then unhook the rods from the levers and how would I go about detaching the rods as there are these plastic clips holding them in place. Issue: My left R door lock does not unlock, managed to feel my way around all the rods and levers inside the door to open the door and there is obviously a mechanical error somewhere within the lock (both the actuator and the doorknob rod/lever move, but no matter the force I applied on these to unlock it with my hand didn´t do anything). Or is the replacement of the lock module a wiser option altogether?
  2. Hey, I recently experienced exactly the same symptoms, but probably due to a whole different cause. Leaving this here jic someone encounters it too. I was aware that my Terrano had a very very slow coolant leak somewhere, as the reservoir emptied in 3 months of filling it up. Until yesterday, I noticed the front belt rollers were wet and saw the liquid was dripping from the fan shaft/water pump. It made the alternator belt slip, when starting the car, the battery and handbrake light were illuminated together. After couple minutes the lights went off - coolant had evaporated due to friction and all was okay.
  3. I went to a local dealership to find out if the warranty applies for Europe too, but it appears it doesn't even if the seatbelts are factory realeses and made in Japan.
  4. I tried the demo years ago and found a gen 1 Terrano for it as a mod. Found this one as a quick google search, not the same and not sure if it works with the latest version of the game though: http://www.mudrunnermods.com/nissan-terrano-i-kzt-v1/
  5. Brake and steering fluids main purpose is hydraulic (while the pumps/cylinders do get lubrication from the fluid as well I think?) while tranny and engine oil main purpose is lubrication. But I agree that the term "lifetime" is a bit strong, especially given how strong the Terranos/Pathys are built. Ofc to have them last still means they need to be maintained properly and changing the fluids is essential. OT: Anyway, my issue is now resolved - air moisture mixed with Krown corrosion detergent and a slightly loose belt being the cause. Fixed by tightening the pumps pulley and the steering wheel is light as new.
  6. Hey, exactly the same thing on my WD21TD, at least I think so - intermittent whine when trying to turn wheels on no or low speed, sounds like a belt screech and the steering wheel gives jumpy feedback. I assume the power steering system is identical on Terrano's and Pathfinder's so maybe you can advise me from your experience. Was your PS issue resolved anyway? The belts have at least 60k km's (37282.272 miles :D) on them anyway, which looks like a good time to change them and I hope that's the issue. But if it is the pump, what kind of costs would I be looking here? Fluid reservoir is full.
  7. I also have the same thing - most accurately fits with this: "It almost feels like the clutch slips a turn, then bites aggressively... But clutch seems pretty good. Not slipping in 5th, up hill, etc..." Also a manual with TD27t.
  8. I confirmed it´s http://www.euro4x4parts.com , but all brake cables are more expensive than on www.rockauto.com, which is based in US. It appears to me that all vendors in Europe are actually ordering their parts from US, because the price difference is always in the range of shipping and customs fees that apply to US. If you´re based in Europe, it´s still cheaper to order from US directly, because you´d be charged for shipping twice when ordering from EU.
  9. Hey, alsoafaik the Pathfinder and Terrano def. use the same cables as long as they're drum brakes. Lengths differ on each side. Kind of impossible to find them new in Europe for a reasonable price, just recently had to order one from US - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,brake+&+wheel+hub,parking+brake+cable,1696
  10. Hey, The TD27t turbo has the boost controller (aka solenoid that controls the wastegate actuator) on the left side of the engine bay (when looking from the front of the car) - traceable by two hoses running from the turbo. Edit: It is the first generation 1992 model´s config.
  11. Hey, there´s actually no need to remove the glass from the door. Once the upholstery is removed lower the glass and unbolt the rack from the glass, then lift it up again and tape the glass to its (closed) position, lower the loose rack again and take the module out. Edit: it´s probable, that the rack design and assembly is different on your model. On mine (1990) the glass was supported from the center with two bolts and was very easy to remove.
  12. Thanks for your input! Took it to a shop - got it back 4 hours later and felt really stupid when the mechanic told me that "you should change the air filter once in a while". They had run the pressure tests and opened the turbo up - all in order, even though the compressor blades looked scratched (probably some particles had made it through during the 26 years of service, as the turbo is original). Everything pointed towards the engine not getting enough air, so they replaced the filter and also claimed to have test driven it - no problems after. About 3 klicks out of the shop with everything running smoothly, until, again - no power, black smoke in rear view and back to the works followed by surprised faces all around. Traced it back to a faulty solenoid, temporary workaround was to cut off the solenoid with blocked tubes (Nissan only has original factory solenoid blocks that cost about 400-500€). TL;DR: Faulty solenoid block.
  13. Hey, turbo on my secondary Pathfinder (Terrano) called it quits - car gradually lost power to the point where it still runs, but everytime I try to accelerate with a bit higher revs and the turbo starts to spool, it leaves a cloud of smoke behind. Exterior of the turbo and engine looks absolutely clean, so the damage must be internal. Does anyone know how expensive would the worst case scenario be or has experience with the turbo diesels? I hope it hasn´t damaged the engine. It´s a 1992 WD21.
  14. With the help of youtube I gained some confidence that it´s not that tricky, so I went ahead and opened it up. I was right that the motors shaft was just spinning around in the plastic round castor wheel. The center grippy corners were worn out and under load it just snaps forward. That kind of annoyance would be easily avoided by using stronger material on the wheel or proper design of the shafts head, but I guess 28 years is way over the life expectancy on these details anyway. The spare part for new power window regulator costs 135€ around here so I decided to go for a easy and cheap fix: Bought two-part epoxy glue, which has to be mixed and then dries within 4 minutes. Fully hardened within 24 hours, it chemically binds plastic, metal and many more materials so it seems to be the right glue for it. Put it back together and it raised the window no questions asked. It´s worth to lubricate the rails and cables on these old systems too, because I think that may have caused it to go bad in the first place. https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo/full?photo_id=500784326442
  15. Hey, has anyone removed the window regulator rack from the door and have some tips what to look out for? I removed the door panel and can see all the bolts necessary to open, but I´m afraid there is a network of cables that lift/lower the window and these will get messed up. Issue itself is the window does not move up anymore - the motor is spinning and comes down fine, but when trying to close it, it just clunks. It feels like the motors shaft is not tight with the transmission system. I hope it´s rather fixable than necessary to replace it. Thanks in advance! Nissan Pathfinder 2.7TD 1990

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