CDNBullrid

just checked all my butterfly valves when i did timing chain. all were tight. removed and put heavy duty loctite on the threads and reinstalled them. not a big job to do. people, if you havent done this yet, do it. doesnt take long and the 2 posts above this prove that it is worth doing.

im no automotive mechanic but i am a mechanic on agricultural equipment so ive seen my share of engines apart. I would rate this a 8 just because there is so many components to remove. I had the service manual for it because i downloaded it from the link that someone posted here a while back. Just before you are supposed to pull the front timing chain cover off, it says to remove the mounting bolts for the engine, wrap a sling around it at support it. That way you can remove the engine oil pan. This is not necessary but it would make sealing the timing chain case easier. As for the timing chain replacement itself, its very easy. the links are colored so as long as you can get those links onto the 2 cam gears and the crankshaft gear, put a little paint mark on the gears as to where the links line up. that way you dont have to worry about getting the #1 cylinder at TDC on compression. while i was in there i just replaced everything. cam chains, timing chain, and all guides, followers, and chain tensioner. I dont want to go back in there later. Getting the bolt out of the crank pulley was about the hardest part. You have to remove the starter to get at the ring gear so that you can hold the engine from rotating while trying to loosen the bolt. once the bolt was lose, the pulley came off very easily and without much persuasion. it definately was worth doing myself rather than forking out $2000 that i was quoted on labor alone.

dont know how much time it took me. spent a few evenings on it. as for why i replaced it, it was making noise, sounded like the chain running loosely over the tensioner or guides. when it was opened up, it didnt look that bad but when held up with the new one, it did sag a bunch more. will see if it is corrected when i get it running properly The cam position sensors were completely removed during the repair. I cleaned them and put them back in. There is no adjustment for them, single bolt, no slot. Could this affect only 1 or 2 cylinders to be firing off the one cam shaft? Ground wires have not been touched so im guessing there is no problem there. However, i did check the ground circuit back to the ECU from each coil and they all test good. thanks for the input

take guesses, anyone?

I just finished doing the timing chain on my truck. put it all back together and fired it up. Now, it doesnt run on all cylinders. It does run on cylinders 1, 5 and 6. it is good that it runs on cylinder 6 because that kinda eliminates a timing issue. I have swapped coils from a working cyl to a non working cyl. Swapped spark plugs as well. I then removed the intake again to check to see if im getting fuel. one injector was leaking so i replaced that injector. while i was there i did all the orings as well. Put it back together and it did the same thing. I checked to see if the coils were getting voltage. they are. 12v on the first wire, ground on the 3rd wire, and the middle wire is the signal. I checked the signal wire on the running cylinder and it was showing something like 0.2 volts. when i checked the one on the cylinder that was not running, there was no voltage at all. Looked in manual and checked continuity on all the wires right from the ECU to the coil, the wires all had 0ohms resistance, which means the wire is good. What can i do from here. Any ideas would be great. Im not sure where to check from here.

has anyone actually done this and installed more discs into the lsd? how many and where could you safetly install them so they would not grind off the first corner you take. I am very interested in this method. i thought about it but didnt think it was possible.

okay, new question. does anyone have diagrams for what is inside the housing. parts diagrams and any kind of service repair manual for diff would be muchly appreicated

replaced the waterpump, noise is still there. Took to nissan dealer. they suggested it might be the timing chain. My pathy has little under 100k miles on it. They are thinking it might be stretched and running over the tensioner a little sloppy. Has anyone seen this before? Has anyone had this fixed? dealer guessed at about 2k for the bill to replace it. where could i find prices of just the chain?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5860 I am wanting same thing done to my 01 lsd. Has anyone done this or knows if it is even possible. Does anyone have schematics or parts diagrams for the diff so i can see what is inside there. any help or info would be cool

does anyone know if this could work with my 01 lsd diff? it slips too easy for my liking, and thats just on road travel

have u checked steering linkages. if a ball joint or tierod end is shot, it could be bouncing back and forth with the road terrain

thanks for all the info. has anyone done this and would have a rough time guess. i know everyone is different but just a figure from what it took you would give me a rought guestimate

thanks for the info. has anyone done the repair themselves and has a list of instructions for me. I know it is a fairly large job. Or has anyone had this done at a shop and can tell me the approx time it took for it to get done. any help would be much appreciated.

My pathfinder started making noise about a year ago. At first it went away when the engine warmed up, but now it is here to stay. It has the same sound as if a bearing was shot on an idler pulley, so i removed both belts and the sound was still there. I opened up the little cover over the waterpump? (in red) The noise seemed to be coming from a little higher. Is this the camshaft under this cover? (in green) I dont know what I should do next. I dont want to take it in yet. I am a Ag. Mechanic so I know how to use a wrench. Anyone had anything similar. I felt the chain when i had the one cover off as in the top picture, it felt tight. I dont know what path the chain runs though so it could have been on the tight side anyway. Idler bearings - Eliminated Alternator - Eliminated A/C clutch - Eliminated Fan clutch - Eliminated

i am a mechanic at a john deere dealership. i just replaced mine with the john deere equivelant. works fine for me.

any update on vid or pics?

^ what he said! | | Also, my odometer bulb is burnt, can u change it when u change the rest of the bulbs?

WHERE IS THE VIDEO YOU PROMISED??? anyway, my Aero 2525 is ordered and shipped, should be getting it tomorrow. i got the one without the resonator. As for the y-pipe, what was the pipe diameter size?

where did you find these parts? What was the website and part#'s. Y pipe = $24 shipped Aero 2525XL = $158 shipped the factory resonator that on the truck is right near the end of the tail pipe right? Can you buy a converter to get from 1 3/4 exhaust pipe to 2 1/4 pipe?

where did you get those headlights???

it is an 01 LE. 3.5L Auto. i have not gotten to the waterpump bearing because it is not visible. it is behind the cover right? i did get to check the alt, tensioner, and a/c. i was thinking a/c at first but it didn't make a difference whether it was engaged or not. i'm sure it is from the engine and sounds to be coming right from the front. it makes no difference on transmission position. thanks for the help and i will post back if ever the problem is solved.

i have the 3.5L engine with a timing chain. i was thinking it might be the tensioner loose but most of the guys ruled that out. so this was my next hope. i have the other thread on my Timing Chain but that is almost ruled out.

makes noise regardless of a/c position. initally that was a possiblilty but it does it all the time. it is worse in winter but is still audible in summer. even after long treks where the engine is totally warm, it still makes the noise.

this is AWESOME info!!!!!!! i dont really know if my waterpump is shot. a sound is coming from my engine and it is either the waterpump or the timing chain tensioner which is loose. can i run the engine with the chain tensioner cover and water pump cover removed?? i could hear where the sound is coming from better. Thanks again for the much indepth info!!!!

wanting to replace my waterpump on my 01 LE with the 3.5L what is all involved in replacing the pump. i have the pump and saw the gear side with all the teeth for the chain which got me a little nervous. please fill me in on all the possible info. thanks much