Gusthebus

Weeks later, I finally have 4 matching tires! Lift and tires...done. Now on to the engine. Timing belt, water pump, belts, idler pulleys, hoses, seals, etc...

I wasn't totally thrilled with the idea of using them(safety reasons), but I had more important things to spend money on than new wheels. I was very meticulous about mounting them. I haven't driven it much since I'm waiting to get the tires/alignment done. The front spacers definitely made the bad wheel bearings more noticeable. I'll be doing the wheel bearings and control arms/ ball joints tonight and hopefully tires and alignment tomorrow. I'll let you know how they perform after I get some miles on em. I do like the look of the stance much better now.

Thanks man! Finally coming together

BEFORE LIFT AFTER 2.5"/2" SPACER LIFT, NEW MOOG SPRINGS ALL AROUND , BILSTEIN 5125 SHOCKS, SWAY BAR BUSHINGS & END LINKS, FENDER MASSAGE, FENDER FLARE/ STEP REMOVAL & 1.5" WHEEL SPACERS DOING WHEEL BEARINGS, CONTROL ARMS, BUSHINGS AND BALL JOINTS THIS WEEK. THEN I CAN FINALLY MOUNT THE FRONT TIRES AND GET IT ALL ALIGNED.

I had a feeling the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze. After checking a few things pointed out earlier in the post I have figured out two things; 1.-my path you is equipped with a 4.636 rear gear. 2.-it also has an open rear end...ugh... Looking at the differential cover I can see an old white(ish) sticker but no legible writing. This lead me to think I might have a LSD. Jacked it up and spun the wheel. Other side spun in reverse. Can I simply swap out an LSD from a yard or is it more complicated than that? I'm not very familiar with the finer workings of a rear diff.

Thanks for the input fellas! I have done a 2.5"F/2"R lift, new springs all around, Bilstein 5125 rear shocks and 1.5" wheel spacers to fit the 265/75R16 Falken Wild peak AT's. I've been driving this 2000 SE stock for the last 2 years. I decided to put some more aggressive rubber on and that has quickly snowballed into me replacing most of the steering and suspension. I guess at this point I'm just trying to justify the lift and tires by possibly adding some more capability to the truck. As of now I haven't been doing much off road. I would like to change that though. I have no expectations of running any serious trails or trying keep up with the 4x4 trucks.Just want my Lil 2wd to live up to its full potential...whatever that may be.

I HAVE A 2000 SE 2WD AND I'M CURIOUS IF ANYONE HAS ANY MOD TIPS FOR IMPROVING OFF ROAD CAPABILITY. I'M LOOKING AT INSTALLING AN ARB AIR LOCKER BUT I DON'T KNOW IF THE PERFORMANCE GAINS ARE GOING TO BE WORTH THE COST. ANYBODY HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE OR ADVICE? ALSO, CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO ID WHAT REAR END GEAR PACK I HAVE? AS ALWAYS I THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!

+1

You need to install in-line resisters. Typically 6 OHM but that varies depending on the bulbs. The system is looking for a certain wattage draw that the LED's won't pull. The resisters simulate this. They do get very warm so be careful where you mount them. You need one for each bulb. Usually around $6 for a pack of 4 on Amazon.

Sounds like you just need to get the proper LED bulbs. I've had good luck with JDM Astar brand bulbs. 7443 is the bulb you need.

Awesome! Thanks a lot fellas!!!

Installation seems straight forward enough, but how do you adjust the camber? Is it just trial and error until its plumb or do i need to make specific measurements? Anybody have pics of them installed?

I agree 100% about the old timer...thats why he gets my business and not the wet behind the ears kids at most of chain shops. Thanks for the heads up on the part numbers!!!

I recently finished the install of front and rear lift spacers and new moog springs. when replacing the strut springs i noticed that the upper spring plate was out of alignment. The notch was the rear of the vehicle on both sides. I corrected this on re-installation. After completing the 2.5" front lift i now have a bit of camber misalignment. I expected as much with the lift; my concern is if the upper spring plate on the strut twas in the wrong position, would that cause any potential issues with the strut that would coincide with or compound the camber issue? I know I'll need to get a set of camber bolts to address the problem. Are there any specific manufacturers/sellers that i should look for? Or stay away from? I'll be taking the pathy to a local tire shop for the alignment( $60...is that a typical price for other areas of the NPORA world?). They're good, but i fear the old timers in there might be a little confused by the "drastic modifications" I've done adding the lift spacers and camber bolts. Is there anything specific to adding camber bolts to R50 that doesn't come with camber adjustment? Seems like anybody with enough knowledge to successfully align the tires should be capable of making these adjustments. Any help or guidance is much appreciated!!! Not the best photo...camber is noticable to the eye but I have no idea what is an acceptable level and what isn't.

Not the best pic but can anyone tell me if the camber is out enough to need addressing with camber bolts? It is noticeable to the eye and the last thing i want to do is screw up new tires. would it be worthwhile to go ahead and get the camber bolts? If so, any suggestions on brand/supplier? As always thanks for your help folks!

Getting closer. 2.5" strut spacers up front and 2" rear spacer lift with new Moog springs all around. waiting on 1.5" wheel spacers so i can mount new tires up front.

Great area to do some wheelin. I went to school in Nelsonville. Always liked that area.

Nice! I've had a few beers there myself. I actually grew up in Lexington. How far are you from there?

Mansfield/Columbus areas. Just moved back from Florida...don't ask why.

Haha! I was talking about that last night. Get some skinny V-tread tractor tires. Off road drag truck! Put some Hot wheels stickers and flames on it for extra speed.

before rear lift and springs

stock front on 255/65R16 2"lift spacer on rear with 265/75R16

That makes sense. I wasn't sure how they worked.