gamellott

That happens. I managed to do that with the rear wheel seals. I don't know how I did it, but I couldn't exactly return them. Took me over a year to actually do the work after accumulating the parts to do the job. So by the time I finally got to it, it was... well just another delay. But then, it was all apart with no real excuse not to get it done. And Then... lets not forget finding debris in the pinion after putting it all back together.... which led to a whole different thread on something that I had never done before

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

The outer seal on mine failed some time ago. I have it removed, and I have a new piece of rubber from Nissan waiting for me to get it glued to the glass. Not finding anyone who is willing to do it. In the meantime, I have 2" electrical tape covering the seal to prevent debris from falling into the gutter. It's not perfect, but it IS keeping the debris out.

My bet is that you are having an issue with a fuel injector now that you have looked into the rest of the culprits. I'm experiencing similar symptoms, and I'm pretty sure it's the injector, since, like you, it was only sitting a week or so when the symptom popped up, and I have localized it to one cylinder which will require me to pop off the intake... Good Luck!!

I've taped a coin over the hole in the past since that OEM part is likely unobtanium

As far as the cruise working or not. My clutch pedal does not return all the way because I believe the return spring is broken. There is another switch on the clutch pedal at the top of the throw that does not engage unless I pull the pedal all the way up to contact the switch. If it's a manual, that could be an issue to be aware of.

I suppose you can put the calipers on the wrong side when outright replacing them, which will put the bleeder screw on the bottom, which will not allow the air to escape when bleeding the brakes. I don't believe the ABS could cause an inability to bleed the brakes. If it's leaking, there would be obvious signs like a puddle somewhere... I haven't heard of such a thing ever happening.... I could easily be wrong though. The Absolute best process I found to bleeding the brakes on these, is Gravity. Open the bleeder screw and let gravity do it's work. If you have a bubble in the system, it will pass. At least, that has been my experience. I've overhauled the rear calipers on mine several times because I can't seem to get the rust under control and they seize about once every other year. I think I may have found the holy grail and assembled them with silicone grease around the boot. So far, so good. Another trick/process, Doorman makes these things called Speed Bleeders. Their documentation by application, I have found, is wrong though. IIRC, the documentation calls for a 33mm shaft and that is too short and will not seat. The 35mm shaft fits and seats properly. They're basically a check valve that allows the fluid to pass only one way when they're open. The process is simple, open the bleeder screw once installed, and pump the brakes a couple of times. Once done, shut the valve and check for leaks. You may have to clean the seat on the calipers since the seat on the Speed Bleeder is much larger than original and my have rust accumulated on the seat in the caliper. Hope this might help some!!

I doubt that it would be the coolant temperature sensor. On my rig, a previous owner broke that connector and it was disconnected for quite some time before I discovered it. That connector being disconnected did NOT cause any issues near as bad as what you are experiencing. Isn't the limp mode setpoint around 2800 rpm?

Update to the bugs.... Thanks to crappy rain today, I discovered that the dampeners do not operate when a different output is selected as well as the AC not working... Looks like I'll be pulling the head unit and checking the connections and maybe looking for a replacement head unit. Oh Joy. Just hoping it's simple.

In case anyone was wondering what the manual locking hubs that I got looked like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTWXLS3S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title They come with no instructions, but They do go on EXACTLY the same as the OE ones. I don't think I was overlooking anything, but I couldn't get the clip that retains the center assembly on the splined shaft. It's like 1mm too long and the clip won't go in the grove. A thinner jesus clip or something like lockwire (In my case) is needed. Maybe it's just me. A lot of mixed reviews, but I think the people were just installing them wrong as I did the first time I slapped them on. I'm not fully endorsing them as being the same as or as good as the OE ones, but they look good and they seem to work fine once I figured it out. No hubcap modification needed if that's what you're trying to avoid like me.

I'm chasing down bugs after putting it all back together. Fortunately, not many. It worked before I tore into the transmission, but now when I push the AC pushbutton, it doesn't illuminate and the compressor does not start cycling. I think it's coincidental. Having NEVER worked on AC before, what would be the first things I should check? Everything else works on the Head Unit for the climate control. The fuse for the AC is good which is tied to the Radio... which works. Is there something else that could be inhibiting it from getting energized?

To answer my own question, Apparently it does matter what bulb you put in there. The initial indications I saw before the changeover to LED's: Lights that worked - Cruise Cont, Rear window defog, ABS, 4x4. Lights after the LED installation that worked: ABS (Erroneous indication), Rear window defog, Cruise Cont. Lights after installing incandescent 74 bulbs... ALL WORK!! Properly at that... I don't think I have ever seen the Cruise light ever light since I have owned this thing. Now it works!! So.... it does appear to make a difference. LED's are cool, but some things only work properly with old tech!!

Pretty sure I didn't. I had the pinion out a couple of months ago and didn't experience anything like that. The light is dim, but clearly illuminated... because it's blue. The "Cruise" light illuminates when turned on and is MUCH brighter. Yet another thing that has me scratching my head...

Sooo... I've had my transmission out of the vehicle for a month. Just got it back in for a test drive yesterday. What an amazing difference a fresh clutch makes. One of the things I did while the vehicle was down was to replace all of the incandescent bulbs in the dash from 194/74 to their LED equivalent. After firing it up for the first time, 0ne thing that lit up, and stayed lit up, that I didn't expect was the rear ABS indicator. It lights up bright, then dims a little. Is this one of those things that doesn't work properly unless you have the proper incandescent bulb in it? I have NO reason to think that it's actually failing aside from sheer age. It was working properly before the work. I don't believe I inadvertently touched or cut anything to do with the brakes. Everything else, now, lights up beautifully. Not so sure that I want to keep it blue though... there are many different colors to chose from if that's what I want to do... but it does match the Stereo lighting .

Latest update: I got MOST of the parts on the chassis re-installed last night. Nothing is tight. Will have to lay under it for a while tightening up all of the fasteners. All that I have left on the floor of the garage is the front sway bar, front drive shaft, Crossmember with torsion bars, and a short piece of exhaust between the Y-pipe and Catalytic converter (O2 sensor will have to get plugged back in), and routing and securing of cable/wires. Now that I write it down, that's quite a bit of work left.... And ofcourse, there is the interior which hasn't been touched, and all of the oil that needs to go into the engine and transmission. Lots of little simple stuff, but it all adds up... One thing I will say was a heck of a LOT easier to do was to install/tighten back up the drivers side exhaust without the front axle installed. Also. The starter was also easier to install without the passengers side exhaust installed.... Everything, I mean EVERYTHING, is interference on these things under the hood if you're looking for some room to work!! I would even consider the front axle being interference to the transmission. There are a couple of bolts that I feel would have been almost impossible to install with the axle in place. I don't think I was doing it wrong, but I couldn't even see the top bolts of the transmission when I was putting them in. It was MOSTLY by feel. So... I think that's going to be it for this thread unless someone wants to add to it