gamellott

Wohoo!!! The Site is back up!!!! The clutch pedal, over time, 10's of minutes, does not fully return. It's not leaking or losing fluid. I can put my foot behind the pedal and pull it back into place with no issues, but it returns back to the partially depressed position once it's depressed again. I have a new master cylinder and slave cylinder (Not yet installed). I have a suspicion that the Dampener is sticking, which I believe could cause this symptom. That part appears to be unobtanium. Can this be bypassed, if so, how does bypassing it affect operation? I've been having this issue with my clutch for some time now. If anything, it's a bit annoying, but doesn't affect drivability for short drives to work or in town. Not sure if it would be an issue for a longer drive. Don't really want to test that out and get stranded somewhere while it slowly resets... Miss you guys!! Have a great day!!!

If I had aftermarket wheels, sure. I have the factory Lego's that would require modifying the hubcap if I install the only other option available, which I am not really willing to do. The Cheap Chineze ones are holding out just fine. It's not like there is much of a strain on that part of the driveshaft, it's just holding it all together and preventing the guts of the hub from walking off on the shaft. Agreed that they're probably not machined enough. I might... consider cutting it down somehow if it becomes an issue.

That happens. I managed to do that with the rear wheel seals. I don't know how I did it, but I couldn't exactly return them. Took me over a year to actually do the work after accumulating the parts to do the job. So by the time I finally got to it, it was... well just another delay. But then, it was all apart with no real excuse not to get it done. And Then... lets not forget finding debris in the pinion after putting it all back together.... which led to a whole different thread on something that I had never done before

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

The outer seal on mine failed some time ago. I have it removed, and I have a new piece of rubber from Nissan waiting for me to get it glued to the glass. Not finding anyone who is willing to do it. In the meantime, I have 2" electrical tape covering the seal to prevent debris from falling into the gutter. It's not perfect, but it IS keeping the debris out.

My bet is that you are having an issue with a fuel injector now that you have looked into the rest of the culprits. I'm experiencing similar symptoms, and I'm pretty sure it's the injector, since, like you, it was only sitting a week or so when the symptom popped up, and I have localized it to one cylinder which will require me to pop off the intake... Good Luck!!

I've taped a coin over the hole in the past since that OEM part is likely unobtanium

As far as the cruise working or not. My clutch pedal does not return all the way because I believe the return spring is broken. There is another switch on the clutch pedal at the top of the throw that does not engage unless I pull the pedal all the way up to contact the switch. If it's a manual, that could be an issue to be aware of.

I suppose you can put the calipers on the wrong side when outright replacing them, which will put the bleeder screw on the bottom, which will not allow the air to escape when bleeding the brakes. I don't believe the ABS could cause an inability to bleed the brakes. If it's leaking, there would be obvious signs like a puddle somewhere... I haven't heard of such a thing ever happening.... I could easily be wrong though. The Absolute best process I found to bleeding the brakes on these, is Gravity. Open the bleeder screw and let gravity do it's work. If you have a bubble in the system, it will pass. At least, that has been my experience. I've overhauled the rear calipers on mine several times because I can't seem to get the rust under control and they seize about once every other year. I think I may have found the holy grail and assembled them with silicone grease around the boot. So far, so good. Another trick/process, Doorman makes these things called Speed Bleeders. Their documentation by application, I have found, is wrong though. IIRC, the documentation calls for a 33mm shaft and that is too short and will not seat. The 35mm shaft fits and seats properly. They're basically a check valve that allows the fluid to pass only one way when they're open. The process is simple, open the bleeder screw once installed, and pump the brakes a couple of times. Once done, shut the valve and check for leaks. You may have to clean the seat on the calipers since the seat on the Speed Bleeder is much larger than original and my have rust accumulated on the seat in the caliper. Hope this might help some!!

I doubt that it would be the coolant temperature sensor. On my rig, a previous owner broke that connector and it was disconnected for quite some time before I discovered it. That connector being disconnected did NOT cause any issues near as bad as what you are experiencing. Isn't the limp mode setpoint around 2800 rpm?

Update to the bugs.... Thanks to crappy rain today, I discovered that the dampeners do not operate when a different output is selected as well as the AC not working... Looks like I'll be pulling the head unit and checking the connections and maybe looking for a replacement head unit. Oh Joy. Just hoping it's simple.

In case anyone was wondering what the manual locking hubs that I got looked like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTWXLS3S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title They come with no instructions, but They do go on EXACTLY the same as the OE ones. I don't think I was overlooking anything, but I couldn't get the clip that retains the center assembly on the splined shaft. It's like 1mm too long and the clip won't go in the grove. A thinner jesus clip or something like lockwire (In my case) is needed. Maybe it's just me. A lot of mixed reviews, but I think the people were just installing them wrong as I did the first time I slapped them on. I'm not fully endorsing them as being the same as or as good as the OE ones, but they look good and they seem to work fine once I figured it out. No hubcap modification needed if that's what you're trying to avoid like me.

I'm chasing down bugs after putting it all back together. Fortunately, not many. It worked before I tore into the transmission, but now when I push the AC pushbutton, it doesn't illuminate and the compressor does not start cycling. I think it's coincidental. Having NEVER worked on AC before, what would be the first things I should check? Everything else works on the Head Unit for the climate control. The fuse for the AC is good which is tied to the Radio... which works. Is there something else that could be inhibiting it from getting energized?

To answer my own question, Apparently it does matter what bulb you put in there. The initial indications I saw before the changeover to LED's: Lights that worked - Cruise Cont, Rear window defog, ABS, 4x4. Lights after the LED installation that worked: ABS (Erroneous indication), Rear window defog, Cruise Cont. Lights after installing incandescent 74 bulbs... ALL WORK!! Properly at that... I don't think I have ever seen the Cruise light ever light since I have owned this thing. Now it works!! So.... it does appear to make a difference. LED's are cool, but some things only work properly with old tech!!

Pretty sure I didn't. I had the pinion out a couple of months ago and didn't experience anything like that. The light is dim, but clearly illuminated... because it's blue. The "Cruise" light illuminates when turned on and is MUCH brighter. Yet another thing that has me scratching my head...