onespiritbrain

You should check the camshaft sensors and your vvti solenoid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 5 o’clock position thing worked perfectly for me. I can’t remember what exactly is in the “5 o’clock” position though.. Is it the allen wrench hole in the tensioner? Or is it the bolt that tightens the tensioner down and the time position changes as the tensioner spins on its axis?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahahaha yeah I didn’t end up going, partly because I didn’t like how well my cooling system was removing heat and also because my curiosity is mostly in whether or not it’s a hoax. I’ve got to get an electric fan system hooked up on this thing. Sitting in traffic or drive thru lines with the AC running in the summer causes the coolant temp to steadily rise indefinitely. It starts going back down the moment I turn off the AC.. I had the exact same problem with my VG33 frontier. I’ve been driving around a lot with this seafoam in and it’s MAYBE helped a slight bit, maybe.. I think to resolve the issue I’ll have to do like your friend and dig in to the valve body. Next is a final pan drop and flush. Then I’m gonna let it ride for a while.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mostly it follows your oil change interval and type of oil. This is 7000mile oil changes with havoline and castrol dyno oil: This is an unknown interval and oil type: This is the same cylinder head at 3000-5000mile oil changes with top tier synthetic oil: I agree with Slart, that discoloration on your rockers is probably from the PCV system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well I can’t post the picture for some reason but I opened the controller and sure enough it’s DC to AC... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay so this is what I have: Now when I wire those three leads in any combination possible all I get it a motor that wiggles a quick second and is locked in position. Just like you’d see if you wired an AC motor with DC power... Aaaaaaand I’m pretty sure that’s exactly what this is... a brushless 3 phase AC motor. Definitely can’t use that... After some research the module there is controlled by a PWM signal that varies in voltage and frequency to control speed and duty cycle..... Definitely can’t use that... Wasted $60. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I am running another pint of transtune but this time under load and thru the mountains. I am going to see a bible that is supposedly producing oil in Dalton GA which is a solid 2 hours away thru the mountains. The transmission has been operating great. Besides the soft 2/3 shift it has shown zero signs of damage. The noise it was making has even disappeared. I want to get rid of the soft shift though. I have been thinking about digging into the valve body in hopes of finding some of that grey stuff that was suspended in the oil deposited in one of the channels but I figure I’ll give the fix in a bottle a chance first since it already worked so well. Later tonight, or maybe even later this weekend I’ll flush the oil one more time, and might also drop the pan just to have a look at the magnet and see if there is a layer of grey sediment. I wish I had more money because I’d love to stick a big ole filter on the cooling line. I’m also excited because pretty soon I will be installing a 600watt Mercedes C200 electric cooling fan I found at pullapart last time I was there! It’s going to take some figuring out though and when the time comes I’ll be requesting y’all help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you also change the filter when you changed the oil? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not with my laptop right now but when I get to it I’ll send you the FSM. What’s your email? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That sucks. You’re gonna have to pull the front diff to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another good uneventful trip this morning. I’m still seeing the 2 to 3 flare with a quick shift at the end of the flare. I remember reading a very detailed write up on the RE4 from a 240Z(or something similar) thread. The guy went into the reason it flares and everything. My anecdotal experience is that contamination can cause the flare since I had zero flaring before my mistake. I want to run more of the seafoam hydra stuff to help remove sediment but I am weary about running it under load in normal driving. I ran it earlier with my rear end jacked up under very low load for about 20min. It just feels like I am on thin ice and I want to take the best path, hence the Pathfinder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m with you man. It wasn’t water... I think it was the torque converters internal clutch material dissolved into the oil. I read it was made of graphite. I had just put in new oil this past December and I couldn’t tell the new oil from the old because the old oil was still in good health. So this opaque metallic oil was a huge shock to see... The torque converter was still engaging the front pump but the o-ring on the smaller shaft wasn’t sealing. I think it starved one of the clutches and it turned to powder and entered the oil. I now have the 2nd to 3rd flare before a hardish shift. I know a lot of people have it but I didn’t.. this transmission was literally flawless before this stupid mistake. I’m going to keep running that seafoam stuff and changing the oil every other week until I stop seeing improvements. I’ll keep y’all posted. Thank y’all for your help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far she is driving just fine. I do hear some noise from the torque converter though. It’s a low pitched whirling sound that’s only there at low speeds(might be there at all speeds but I can’t hear anything over these tires) when I’m not pressing the gas. It starts as soon as the vehicle begins to move under the power coming thru the converter with no skinny pedal. As soon as you press the gas it goes away. I’m not super concerned about the noise, I can live with it, but I am concerned about contamination to the rest of the trans if the converter is on its way out. I may head to pullapart and see if a converter is staring me in the face on one of them. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Slart. It sounds like a solenoid isn’t doing its job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I don’t know about the shifting into 1 or 2 because I didn’t try it. So when you are at a halt and there is no power being transferred, when you hit the gas does the engine rev and the RPM fall slowly just like you were in neutral? Or do the RPM rise to a certain point, around 1500-2500 RPM and fall very quickly, just like they would if you were in D and pressed the gas with the brakes pressed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I put a pint of Seafoam Hydra Tune or whatever it was because I read its claims about drying out moisture in hydraulic systems. I continued to flush everything once again and it was to some success, I no longer have the forward movement failure but I do notice a grungy sound when shifting from 2nd to 3rd at high RPM(3500-4000), as well as some slight losses of power while cruising every once in a while. This has been a lesson for me to slow down and think things thru and if something isn’t going back together easily then you need to stop and double check everything. I am tempted to buy a $160 torque converter on Rockauto.com but I am hesitant because if the rest of the transmission ends up being damaged as well then I’ve wasted even more money on it. Im already $150 in fluids.. I’m going to drive it to work tomorrow so we’ll see how she does in morning traffic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

His were in his kitchen but if you encircled each wheel that’d definitely do it haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sticky traps work pretty well. A friend of mine killed 20+ mice with them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brief backstory: I installed my engine with the four bolts loosely in the torque converter and bent the flexplate all to hati. I shimmed the starter because it was dragging the flexplate and I ended up spraying water in the bellhousing to try to remove all the metal shaving it created and may or may not have introduced water into the transmission oil... I have since put a new flexplate on and flushed the transmission oil but I still have the same issue. The issue is that when I accelerate from a complete stop sometimes the torque converter does something strange. The RPM rise to about 2500 but the vehicle barely nudges forward, then it’ll slam forward a couple quick times before straightening out and driving normal until the next complete stop. It doesn’t do it right away after a cold start. It’s only when it’s warmed up and the longer it runs the worse it gets until it starts shifting poorly and even tried to stay in gear slightly when in neutral. I’ve also heard some soft noises from the transmission during all of this and it sounds almost like a helicopter’s blades cutting through the air. Only reason I think it got water in there is the oil had a very milky look to it. Slart was saying he had some trans oil that looked the same so I don’t know if water actually got in there or not.. I flushed the oil today and it came out looking like a not so bright version of the strawberry milkshake of death. Lots of bubbles.. Here what it looked like when I drained it at the pan the other night. The light highlights whatever is mixed in there.. clutch material? Metal? The magnet didn’t pickup anything I could see. https://youtu.be/a-oY7_4zyhk Also I found the little o-ring that goes on the shaft that goes into the torque converter broken and I though surely that was the culprit but the exact same issues have persisted. If this transmission is toast then I don’t want to spend another $ on it but what if this is just a bunch of bubbles disrupting the fluid pressures and actuations in there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is doing something similar to yours.. instead of acting like neutral mine slips and bogs and transfers almost no power then all the sudden it let’s go and all is normal until stopped completely again. Does yours act like complete neutral when it messes up or is there any forward transmission at all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay... so the transmission is still doing what it was doing before.. I think it’s time to start a separate thread for this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dammit. You called it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The unseated torque converter destroyed the o-ring located on the smaller shaft which enters the torque converter. I think it’s the lockup oring but it might be even more important than that. I’m heading out to see if I can find something that’ll work in its place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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