onespiritbrain

You might try a pint of Seafoam Transtune. It is advertised as compatible with most hydraulic systems including automatic transmissions, so it is certainly safe in a transfercase, even if it’s an ATX14A. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t nailed down which controller I would like to use.. this one seems great but it’s only $30 which is worrisome. https://www.amazon.com/Lightobject-ETC-JLD612-DC-Fahrenheit-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00C9M6ZJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1539090194&sr=8-31&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v+dc+temperature+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=41bregD4ztL&ref=plSrch You have to buy a temp probe and a barstock tee or the likes and whatever bushings you’d need to set the probe at the right depth. At the very least you could monitor the temperature and if it the trans cooling system needs to be controlled then your already started in what you need to make it happen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My radiator is completely bypassed. We will see how it does this winter though. I’ve read about people having issues with low trans temps (no torque converter lockup) with the radiator completely bypassed. I have loosely put together a list of parts for a temp control system that would bypass the cooler until a specified temp is reached but it’s expensive and complicated.. the problems are the solenoid valves (12VDC options are limited and rectifying higher voltage is going to make things even more expensive, have to select high quality stuff because a failure would mean transmission failure) and open/close timing to make sure there are no interruptions in flow.. Anyway, I bypassed mine completely because I saw trans temps at 235degF and that’s just ridiculous. The integrated trans cooker is only good for warming the trans up and keeping it under 250 or so during the summer. Ridiculous. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmmmmmm... if only the two rear wheels are lit then you should be in 2H. I’m not sure where the sensor is or what exactly it is looking at to determine whether or not 4WD is fully engaged or disengaged but when mine isn’t fully engaged the wheels blink until the movement is completed. We need to search for a write up that I have seen before that shows what everything looks like inside the transfercase. I don’t have my laptop with me right now but the service manual might help here as well. Do you have a service manual? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you place the switch in 2H does the little picture on the dash show the front two wheels blinking? Also does it beep when switching to the 2H position? Is the transfercase locked (orange block in center of little dash pic)? If so, have you tried placing the switch in 2H while on pavement and then put the trans in reverse and cut the steering wheel all the way and drive in backward circles? That will greatly stress the transfercase and may break loose whatever is stuck. If you try the above, can you feel the tires grabbing and barking? Edit: I see the full lock to full lock now but did you try that in reverse also? And, while my transmission died anyway, I did have some significant success with Seafoam Transtune. It’s basically just alcohol but it can be used in most hydraulic systems and might just do the trick for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Xterra used the RE4R01A from 1999 thru 2004. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RE4R01A 1987–1999 Nissan Gloria 1988–1998 Nissan Pathfinder 1990–1997 Nissan Hardbody Truck 1989–1998 Nissan 240SX 1989–1999 Mazda MPV 1990–1992 Infiniti M30 1990–1998 Nissan Pathfinder 1990–1993 Mazda Pickup 1990–1997 Nissan 300ZX Non-Turbo 1992–1995 Mazda 929 1992–1997 Infiniti J30 1993–1996 Mazda RX-7 1997–2003 Infiniti QX4 1998–2001 Nissan Pathfinder 1998–2004 Nissan Pathfinder on Australian Models 1999–2001 Nissan Frontier 2000–2001 Nissan Xterra –1989 Nissan Van 1996–1998 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS turbo 1996–2001 Nissan Stagea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d do whatever’s middle of the pack pricewise and then bypass that radiator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m just guessing here but the differences are probably in the bellhousing and extension housing. As long as you have two RE4R01A transmissions then you should be able to swap the unlike items. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am fond of the VG33.. I noticed a small cloud of oil smoke from the tailpipe at lunch today.. I also noticed that I am using oil. It’s probably used a quart in the last 1000 miles. I did gut my precats though and it is possible that whatever oil was already leaking was being burned and now it’s not.. and I was using oil before my head gasket started making up for the lost oil with water.. We shall see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Certainly sounds like it is sticking open. You are probably going to have to take it apart again. You can’t test it by putting it in some boiling water and look to see if it opens and closes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah those really light it up! I want to get white also and have the color in the glove box for when I’m in the woods. Thanks man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would like to know as well MJO. I think I’m going to do either red or green for my map lights and whatever is the brightest for the dome and rear lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow.. yeah. I put my spare TPS on and it drives completely normal now. The shifts are much smoother, which is fine, but the 2-3 flare is more pronounced. Before the shifts were smooth sometimes and then sharp other times but I thought it followed transmission oil pressure/temperatures. Now it shifts the same from the time I pull out of the driveway until I get to work. It was also requiring some serious throttle to kickdown into 2nd gear but now it feels just right. I know it finally threw a code at the end there but doesn’t the TPS throw codes pretty easily? I thought it was sorta common that they throw codes and not even be bad.. Also, after I put this TPS on it seems like my engine is quieter? Is that possible? Before it was, for lack of better words, more tonal? Now I can hardly hear the engine at all and the small exhaust leak I have is a lot more noticeable. Hopefully I can go a week or so here without going back and forth on this vehicle! Sheesh.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm... Interesting. Slart, looks like you were on the money! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s the overrun clutch solenoid or something in the overrun clutch system. The overrun clutch causes the output shaft not to turn faster than the input shaft (engine braking... like in a manual when you coast in gear... just like it did!!!) This morning I noticed that the vehicle was slowing down when I let off the gas and now I realize it was engine braking. In 4th it’s not supposed to operate! And the other night when slowing at that stop sign it suddenly engaged! Crap. So this trans does have a problem... now I have to figure out what I need to do about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/Magnefine-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Steering/dp/B0787KWZPS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was the compressor! Oh man! It’s sooo nice! Can’t live without AC... haha I think the whole issue might have been a lack of oil though... I filled the old compressor with iso100 turbine oil and it spit it out just like the new compressor. I have taken the AC apart so many times and each time a modest amount of oil comes out.. I will confirm this by putting my old compressor on the neighbors QX4 Wooh!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t think that’s a good idea man. What if it works and collects all that normal wear but then gets knocked off and sends it all at once into the transmission? The filter is just a screen and won’t catch that fine stuff that gets built up on the magnet. An easier solution might be to ditch the magnet altogether and just install an inline filter like some guys around here have done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update on this engine: This thing is running great. The water pump is constantly dripping but I haven’t had to add coolant yet. Mega huge difference between the amount of coolant my BHG was using... crazy. I definitely notice a small amount of extra low end power. Top end feels the same. It so nice not to have to constantly worry about overheating! I am warming back up to my Nissan. Good ole car.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know of two sensors related to rotation on the trans: one is on the top driver side of the bellhousing (crankshaft position sensor) and there is a similar looking sensor on the top of the extension housing on a 4WD setup trans. I’m actually not sure what the second one is but I imagine it’d be difficult to get to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m driving my wife’s GX around right now and I can confirm what I thought was an issue is actually normal. Also I drove to Atlanta today and back in 5oclock traffic and I was about to comfortably crank my music up and ignore the trans completely. [emoji1303] It feels great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scored a compressor today woot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you fellas. I checked all the pressure sensors and every electrical part I could locate and I can’t seem to find any issue. The compressor clutch engages just like everything is normal but it’s just not compressing. I am definitely leaning toward a badly worn compressor. It was taking forever to actually get cold before this happened. I say forever, about 10-15 minutes sometimes depending on how hot it was outside. I put my hands on a compressor in a 2007 Nissan Maxima and it was probably ten times harder to turn the clutch by hand than mine is. I can spin mine around with one finger and I could barely move that one.. Later today I am going to the junkyard to find a good compressor. I know fall is coming but I still need AC for defrost and when it rains.. Thanks again yall Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk