OH6PILOT

Here's the specific procedure for the Code 32 on the ECM.

When in doubt, go through the ENTIRE troubleshooting procedure listed in the FSM. If you've gone through the testing of the specific valve, then make sure that you check the wiring associated with the troubleshooting procedure. I'm attaching the sections from the FSM in the event that others may have these issues as well.

What year Mustang? Those seats look awesome. ~Hans

Planning on keeping the IFS. I was looking at the Calmini 3" kit, but in all honesty it's alot of money for the same thing that 4x4 parts sells for half the price. I do think that Calmini parts are probably a bit more robust, however... As for SAS...not a huge fan of it unless you're planning on going with 35's or larger. In regard to the body lift, I put on a 3" lift in about 3 hours under $100. I'm a big fan of the body lift, because it make working on the truck ALOT easier...increased clearance between the body and the frame as well as increased room to work on the engine and transmission. Plus...it looks better, IMHO. ~Hans

Um..Yes. Redo it. lol.

The tensioner spring is actually quite important during the installation and tensioning portion of the timing belt. See below:

Like most vehicles, you can swap out buckets pretty easily. The trick is to be able to install the replacement seats on the pathfinder tracks. If you find a seat that you can remove the tracks and fabricate a plate or mount that will bolt onto the pathy seat tracks, you're set. Here's the breakdown of the seat track for the pathy...

I currently have a 3 inch body lift, and I'm about to install a 3" suspension lift after I'm finished with the new engine replacement. I'll post more about it soon.

I currently have a 3 inch body lift, and I'm about to install a 3" suspension lift after I'm finished with the new engine replacement. I'll post more about it soon.

I will pretty much guarantee you have a ground issue. 90% of the electrical problems I've found with this frame have to do with ground problems. What codes are being thrown from the ECM, and do the other guages still work on the instrument panel?

STEP 17. Removed Front LH and RH side lamp assemblies. Removed 2 side screws (Phillips head) and one front frame screw from each light assembly. ___________________________________________________________________

STEP 16. Remove Radiator Overflow Bottle Assembly A. Remove 3 10mm bolts from radiator overflow bottle. ___________________________________________________________________ B. Remove overflow bottle from vehicle. Drain and flush bottle. Clean with CLR. Inspect for general condition, cracks, holes, leaks and serviceability. ___________________________________________________________________

STEP 15. Discharge AC lines and remove lines from compressor. A. Locate High Pressure and Low Pressure ports for AC system. Connect AC Regulator Manifold Assembly to Engine AC system. Vent system properly (of COURSE you're going to vent this to an EPA approved R-134a refrigerant capture container...not a bottle with a rag over the opening so that you don't spray stuff everywhere....just saying.) High Pressure Port (Located in front by radiator) Low Pressure Port (Located by intake manifold assembly) AC Manifold Installed for venting (and Servicing) _________________________________________________________________ B. After venting AC system, carefully remove bolts from AC hose manifolds attached to compressor (2 ports...4 12mm bolts) _________________________________________________________________ C. Cover ports to ensure that the AC compressor doesn't become contaminated. Reposition hoses to an area away from the engine assembly. _________________________________________________________________

STEP 14: Remove Intake Vacuum Lines and Air Intake Tube Assembly A. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, remove the clips from the Vacuum Hoses on the Intake Assembly. ___________________________________________________________________ B. Using an 8 MM socket, loosen the large clamp holding the intake Tube Assy to the Intake Plenum / Throttle Body Intake Assembly, then remove the intake tube assembly and set aside (inspect for any additional damage or deformities). _________________________________________________________________

STEP 13. Disconnect Master Cylinder Vacuum Line Assy A. Hose is located in the rear of the engine compartment near the firewall. __________________________________________________________________ B. Hose clamps are normally 8mm. Disconnect clamps from hose assembly. __________________________________________________________________ C. Remove hoses from brake boost check valve.

STEP 12. Remove Carbon Emissions air canister. A. Using needle nose pliers, re-position the clamps for the vacuum lines on the charcoal canister. _______________________________________________________________________ B. Be sure to mark the specific vacuum lines with tape to identify proper connections for reinstallation. _______________________________________________________________________ C. Disconnect spring clamp from Canister and lift canister from engine frame. _______________________________________________________________________ D. Disconnect Vacuum Lines _______________________________________________________________________ E. Remove and inspect Charcoal Canister for general condition. _______________________________________________________________________

STEP 11 F: DISCONNECT Lower Connectors near radiator area. A. Connectors located in front drivers side engine area near where radiator would be installed.

STEP 11E. Disconnect Engine Ground Wires A. Primary Engine Ground Wires are located on the inlet plenum in the front of the engine. These are standard 10mm bolts. __________________________________________________________________________ B. Distributor Ground is located at the base of the distributor cap. __________________________________________________________________________

STEP 11D. Disconnect Coolant Temp Sensor Harness The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located on the upper water outlet housing. It is a standard clip secured connector (Yellow) and it gives the signal to the ECM for the engine coolant temperature. The Engine Guage temperature switch is the single blade connector located directly in front of the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. (Single wire connector).

STEP 11C. Disconnect TPS Wiring Connectors. There are two connectors on the TPS. Technically, Connector 67M connects to the Soft/Hard Closed Throttle Position (CTP) switch, and connector 68M connects to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). They are both in the same assembly.

STEP 11B. Disconnect Distributor Wiring Connector A. Remove connector from upper radiator manifold assembly. (10mm bolt) _____________________________________________________________________ B. Disconnect Camshaft Position Sensor Connector _____________________________________________________________________

STEP 11A. Disconnect Front Engine Wire Harness This is the fun part, especially if you aren't familiar with the Pathfinder wiring system. A. Disconnect all wires running between the engine and components attached to the body. NOTE!!! Before disconnecting or removing wires, mark them with pieces of tape or take pictures of them to identify their installed locations. This will eliminate potential issues during reinstallation. The primary connector bundle is located on the right valve cover. _____________________________________________________________________ B. Disconnect the bracket from the valve cover (Two 10mm bolts) _____________________________________________________________________ The following is a guide of the remaining connectors to remove, along with their connector ID numbers and what they go to.

STEP 10. Remove Radiator A. Remove the bolts that attach the radiator to the body frame. They should be standard 10mm Bolts with large washers. ________________________________________________________________________________________ B. Lift out the radiator. With the radiator removed, inspect it for leaks and damage. I would recommend flushing it with a garden hose. Cover the outlets and fill wioth water and alternately open an outlet to let water flow in different directions. You can also fill it full of CLR to get rid of a good amount of the rust and lime that accumulates. MAKE SURE to put it in a place where you wont accidentally stick something into the vanes. I recommend placing cardboard over the front and back vanes.

STEP 9: Disconnect Transmission Oil Cooler Lines A. Both of the lines are located at the bottom of the radiator. They are either a normal hose clamp (Flat tip screwdriver), or a NISSAN hose clamp, which will be 8mm, depending on the size of the clamp . Remove clamps, then remove hose and inspect for cracks, wear and deformities. _______________________________________________________________________________ B.Bear in mind that these will drain transmission fluid all over the place, so make sure that you have a catch bucket setup below the radiator, or make sure that you have a few plastic bags readily available to place over the ends and zip tie. _______________________________________________________________________________

8. Remove Lower Radiator Hose A. Also very simple, it's either a normal hose clamp (Flat tip screwdriver), or a NISSAN hose clamp, which will be either 8mm or 10mm, depending on the size of the clamp . Remove clamps, then remove hose and inspect for cracks, wear and deformities. Set aside if hose is still serviceable. Note that the condition of the hose and the plenums will indicate the condition of your cooling system...Mine is clearly horrible.