- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
-
Posts
334 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by PDCCD
-
Hmm, good read, but i was under the impression that the greatest advantage for off road efans was that you could switch the fan off for water crossings, thus eliminating busted fan blades when they suddenly encountered the additional force caused by the water as they try to spin. I've never heard the increase in HP claim. Not really a concern for my 3.5.
-
Yes, they rubbed a little. I took a heat gun to the tire liner and pushed it in a little. All fixed, but under more compression, they might have rubbed more. Oh, and their 8" with 4" backspacing I think. Now that its lifted though, i love it, works great for me so far. good luck.
-
Ok, save me an hour of searching please. Can I do this with my vq35? I checked summit, they don't list a kit, but this part number is for a "universal" fit. I wonder if i can even find a place to mount it. Anyone else done it yet? thanks for any help...
-
LOL, i totally get your point. I'll have to give it a couple of days and see what i think. I tried the Fiamm highway blaster, i wasn't thrilled with the sound. I'm not sure if it was the tone (i think it said F) or if maybe i didn't have it ground well. I tried it in the pep boys parking lot, and returned it. I'm not thrilled with the price of the wolo, but it gets out. We'll see. Oh, and who's oscar grope?
-
I know this is an old thread, but i wanted to add i've just installed a Wolo model 419 air horn. This one, it's the first one at the top: http://www.wolo-mfg.com/air.htm This puppy is LOUD! I love it. The tone is like a train, and it's supposed to be 118 db. I can't help but say Mooo-haw-haw-haw every time i honk it lol. I had to add a ground wire and extend the existing horn wire. Also, a tip for any one else who might get one, test fit the horn before drilling a mounting hole, close the hood to see. where i thought mine would fit, after all done and tools were put away, i tried to shut my hood and the horn was about an inch too tall (the air compressor). I just cannibalized the stock mount and used it to lower the whole horn. I can't wait till the next idiot pulls in front of me...
-
OK, gotta story to tell you. Shortly after i lifted my pathy, i started to notice a funny clunck from the front drivers side. I tried half heartedly several times to track it down. Checked the bolts. Checked the strut mounts, yada yada. Then, after a 500 trip to visit family, i tried again. This time i jacked it up, and tried to wiggle the wheel. The damn thing moved at least 4"!! Turns out when i took it to get it aligned, they failed to tighten the top bolt of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut, where the camper pin/bolt goes! I could have been killed!! And i finally thought i tracked down my clunk. But no. The clunk persisted. So, this sunday, i tried again. took off panther armor, i jerked, banged and wiggled. Nothing was loose. So it tried pushing up on the undercarriage like a bench press. Well, to wrap it up, i tracked down the noise. Of all the damn things, it was the rubber boot over the steel strut piston rubbing against the inside of the spring just right, and i assume because of the horn shape and material, made it sound like a loose kind of clunk. So i sprayed some WD-40 in there, and whoala, the mysterious has been just about eliminated. it was real odd, i could have sworn it was a bushing or loose bolt, but it was just a weird sound effect of the strut. Heck, try it out, may help you too! Most interesting thing to me was, if I hadn't had that shock boot noise, who knows what would have happened with that strut bolt. I coulda been kilt!!
-
I wish i could. The digital camera is in WA with the wife for the week. Sorry. I've tried everything. The bar that attaches to the pinch seam is crooked, causing all the problems. Now RR claims it's a model year issue, but i think it's a jig issue. If i hold the sliders to the frame without attaching the pinch seam bar, everything fits perfect. If i attach it to the pinch seem, the slider runs out in the rear and the frame attachment bars don't reach. The only real possible argument to my theory is that the pinch seam dosn't have alot of meat with the holes drilled. SO it might be possible that the seam is shorter, and located differently from model to model
-
Did i get the wrong link? I didn't see anything about PVC and foam tape. Although i would have been curious about the 10 pieces and 3M adhesive bit... But that's no rocker kit to me.
-
Well, It ain't gonna work. The two connecting arms to the sub frame are 1/2" too short. I guess if i have to i can make shims for that. It appears also that the flares out from front to back, so it's not even as it travels across the rocker. Sticks out more in back than front in other words. All in all shoddy welding has warped the mounting plates, and i believe that the pinch seam is shorter and probably about 1/2" further from the frame than a 99.5'. I've emailed RR and will keep anyone interested posted.
-
Well... I've been working on these for about an hour now. My preliminary investigation leads me to believe that not all R50's are the same. The change that occurred between the 99.5's and beyond may be cosmetic, but that seems to make a difference in fitting. The reason i'm guessing that RR hasn't made them for beyond 99' is this. The pinch seam, that these RR rely so heavily on is smaller. Smaller meaning not as tall. In addition, the seam might be as much as 5/16 or more further from the sub frame section, because mine has a good sized gap between the leg that should bolt to the frame, and the frame. Yes, before the question arises, these are for a pathfinder, they bend where they should bend, and have legs where legs would be. The dimensions are just slightly off. I'll continue to attempt some sort of fit-up when the rain subsides and see what i'll have to do to get them to work, although i doubt their structural integrity with so little meat on the pinch seem where it needs to be...
-
Ok, So my RR super sliders arrived. Nicely wrapped and quickly delivered. Although none of the hardware made it. So while looking at the mounting instructions i see how they want me to drill holes in the pinch seam, which i expected. But they also want me to use 3/8" Self threading bolts to drill into my frame rails (or subframe rails) to secure part of the . Now this dosn't seem very sturdy to me, so i'm thinking i'll drill all the way through both sides of the rail and put in a grade 8 hex bolt. Anybody know why i wouldn't want to do it this way? Will i weaken the frame or something? I wonder why RR didn't suggest doing the same. Well, i call on the experts here before i drill, what do you guys think? thanks.
-
Thanks for the compliments all. Last update is the open 4:3's are gone and LSD 4:6's are in. Black panther is installed, minus some missing rock washers and 4 stripped bolt holes. I'm almost done lol. Oh, and the 68 elite with weather and Wilson 5000 are installed. Almost done...almost done...
-
Hello Pal, Those are American racings version. I'm not fond of the color stripes. ProComps make RockCrawlers. Look the same except for the pinstripes. 4wheelparts.com has them, that's where i got mine. I went with 15" wheels to make the tire look bigger and their cheaper, much cheaper than 17's, oh, and more tire options. As for the wife, i waited till the suspension and tires needed to be replaced. Then i showed her what the dealer would charge if they did it, and what i could do it myself for (with ac's lift components). Heck, the tire and wheel package i got from 4wheelparts was cheaper than she payed for the last set of just tires she bought for it lol. Only problem is, i never mentioned the differential swap, blackpanther armor, and Rocksliders lol. I tell you though, even after it all, i bet i'm still under the dealers cost... I hope. Good luck. Pete
-
Hey Guys, I wanted to chime in. I live in New England. Salt sucks. Anyway, i found a cool product called "chassis saver" at my local auto parts store. You brush it on, will very little prep, and it penetrates and bonds with the steel supposedly. The stuff, when it dries, is like Armor. it's very flexible but tough as hell. It claims that moisture is absorbed by the chemical and i've seen that on a real humid day, it dries even faster when painted on. Anyway, here's a link: http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp Check it out...
-
LOL, figures. Thanks, good to know.
-
Mine claimed he could not, but others here have said they could. Best you can do is try. Easiest way to tell is look at the little metal plate in your engine bay. I usually see it on the passanger side near the fire wall. There's a line that says "Trans. Axle" That will tell you the gearing. If it says HG43 it's 4:3, HG46 then 4:6. If it's 4:3 and a 3.5liter motor, I don't think they made any LSD. Don't quote me. Last resort, jack up the rear, look for an orange LSD oil only sticker on the back of the diff. Double check by spinning the tires. If you spin one tire and the other goes in the oposite direction, then it's open (no lsd). If they spin in the same direction, you have LSD. Thanks to RWC5S2 and XPLORX4 i've completed my swap from 4:3 open to 4:6 LSD too. Much better lol.
-
Power Valve Screws Falling Out On 3.5's, 01-04
PDCCD replied to Trainman's topic in R50 FAQ's & Pinned Topics
Thanks a ton. I'll email him. Now how the heck are you supposed to find a valve cover with a different baffle design? That sucks. But why don't i have the problem and you do? Mines only a year newer. heck, alot of us have this truck, and i haven't seen much about oil consumption, but i haven't been looking either. Anyway, thanks again. -
Power Valve Screws Falling Out On 3.5's, 01-04
PDCCD replied to Trainman's topic in R50 FAQ's & Pinned Topics
Yeah, Great. Now how did you do it? You guys have me freaking out now LOL. I just put all this money into lifting my 02', and now i hear the engine could blow. Good grief. Could you post some details please? What year/model was your truck. It's interesting that you found locktite. I'm sorry i can't offer you any help with your oil consumption problem. It's either burning, which it dosen't appear to be (no smoke) or leaking somewhere. If not on the ground, then into your system. thanks for any light you can shed. Pete -
Replacing Upper Coolant Bypass Hose....driving Me Insane!
PDCCD replied to crystallinesheen's topic in The Garage
Not sure the specific hose your after, but here's a couple of tools that have made my hose antics a bit easier. Maybe they'll help you? I got my hose pliers a Pep boys, and hose clamp remote pliers at sears. Good Luck. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt90246.html http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=37909 -
It would seem logical, but i don't think it's the case. My gearing is 4:3, like most in 02'(although i have 4:6's with rear lsd just waiting to install). I only see two radiator looking things, the big one which is obviously the Radiator, and i think he's right, the other one is thin and has some sort of cooling component looking thing mounted vertically along one edge. I don't even think my truck has a stock transmission cooler, unless i haven't found it yet... So anyway, factory tow package seems like they probably just slapped a hitch and some wiring on at the dealer...My luck. Now i've got to buy one of these coolers and figure out how to install the dang thing.
-
Doht! Great. Guess theres another part to buy and install. I plan to tow. New topic to research now, it never ends lol...
-
Ok, I gotta ask. I went down to my truck to check out what i've got in there. Looking in, there seems to be two radiators. Thing is, the smaller one is only slightly smaller than the larger one. I can barely see the main one from the front. Do i have some sort of upgraded tranny cooler already? My truck is a 02' SE and came with the factory tow package. Maybe that's why? Thanks. Pete
-
Any pics with it done? I bet that looks trick. And would make replacement in the future sooo much easier. Are you an engineer Dean?
-
Hmmm, i've got an 02', but i belive it was the same part number. I assumed the studs were included because of a slight increase in length would be benificial, but after all the fuss i went through to make the swap, it was probably fruitless, i probably got an extra thread or two out of the hour + it took me. For anyone who might not know, i found using vise grips to remove the old studs was fastest, then double nut the stud to reinstall. Took some trial and error for me to figure that much out LOL. Oh, and here's a link to some other helpful links pertaining to this job. Just follow the links. Thank Vengful and Xplorx4. Those guys rock!: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11266
-
Being new here, i'm not bitching, but the search feature is annoying. It seems anything too short gets kicked to the curb. Try finding LSD in a search. Nothing, but i've found at least two topics with just that title luckily. Only reason i bring it up is because when some stupic noob (like me) asks for some advice, "do a search" comes up. But the search feature is very finicky... Just an observation.
