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Mrelcocko

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Posts posted by Mrelcocko

  1. Been away for a little bit. Here's my 98 2wd 5peed August 2016 on top of Mt Roosevelt Scenic Overlook, Rockwood, Tn. Sad thing is shes long gone. I sold her to a good friend and he didnt even get a year outta her before he blew it up. Didnt know anything about it till months later. He could have made some of his money back, but never let me know she blew. That Pathy got me into obsession with the R50. Damn do I miss her.

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  2. Hey guys my Q finally produced the leak behind the distributor. As a lot of you know this is a common problem over time. There's a number of things it could be and doing a pressure test doesn't always give you the location of the leak as in my case. I should've replaced all the hoses and gaskets back when I done the TB/water pump/ valve cover gaskets, but lazy me didn't and now I'm paying for it. My leak was coming from either intake bypass hose or temp sensor housing. Very hard to tell. I also needed to replace my knock sensor since day one. I was actually gonna do the easy knock sensor move and noticed antifreeze under the front and plans changed. In a way kinda happy cause I didn't really want to do the knock sensor unless it was done right anyway. As far as gasket/hose kits what do you guys recommend? I want to replace whatever needs to be replaced while I'm in that area. Thanks hope everyone is having a great year so far.bcd9f0f96b4e0bd8737ca05090e73e09.jpgd2265a6c11982372f8f7159fced70f0c.jpged2928eb779fa2dc45ba209286b947b7.jpg

     

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  3. Something else a lot of people don't know is whenever you're filling your tank up once it shuts off automatically letting you know that your gas tank is full don't continue to top it off because what happens is when you overfill your tank all that gas in the filler tube goes to your canister that's what breaks down the charcoal inside of it making it wet brittle.

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  4.  
    How do you blow out the charcoal line? The charcoal boxes are in the rear near the spare tire right? And if I recall, the vent is a tube that points down?
    Depending on what year you have there is a blowout line on the driver side engine bay. close to the master cylinder it even has a cap to unscrew to hook up an airline to blow it out. Here's what the FSM has listed for 97 vg33e. On the diagram it shows what line goes to the evap canister that's the one you will blow out95ca2943133491c5de1055b5b6f3e942.jpg

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  5. Nissan,Suzuki,Subaru,Volvo etc. More Nissan than anything. Isuzu and Subaru switches will fit, Niles inc makes switches for several different car manufacturers. If found Suzuki switches some not all dont fit perfectly, but fit well enough to go unnoticed. 3ff9fe9bd6aad4596035dd45f65f1da6.jpg2c34317416ae8ac009b116ae8697d932.jpgd5fa3ac4d40663c1474bce2ddae262f8.jpg00a5277604fd80b8ceb07c0b8164964f.jpg84accab52c17fa33cfcb03be0a76acff.jpg

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  6.  

    If your R50 is suffering from the tachometer doing a crazy dance or not working at all I have the fix. Only pertains to 96 and 97 model Pathfinders QX4 and Terrano's as these are the only ones that use this style of tachometer. Remove the cluster clear face along with black shroud as one piece. On the backside of cluster there's a printed circuit. Remove the 4 screws that hold the tach in place. Once you have the tachometer removed on the backside of the tachometer where the four screws, screw into you will see 2 soldering points on each corner. Resolder each one of those points along with the four in the very middle that form into a diamond shape. It may take several attempts to resolder, but use a steady hand and take your time you shouldn't have any problems. There's a write up about this fix I found in Japanese. In that write up it said nothing about resoldering the diamond shape points in the middle. In my situation after several attempts of resoldering the 2 points on each corner and not fixing the tach, one time of resoldering the diamond middle it fixed my issue. I've included a pic of the newer style R50 tach just to show the difference. Didn't have a pic of the clusters printed circuit. Good luck NPORA members.1b8ecadf7400b862e03568a9343737b2.jpg9aa92dbc0d48e52c061687ab4a3afef7.jpg4f783f62b76bf852c32a375bef312b82.jpg505dcb82acd03c5a132b88e5ee60d05c.jpgf2dc02d733e55b729fb2d0bb721d8194.jpg

     

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  7. So the rumble was due to incorrect tire pressure?
    I just replaced the rear diff entire axle on my 96 and I too have a rumble when going around curves. What size tire are you running along with pressure? My rear differential oil smelled the same as you described when I changed mine.

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  8. I'm getting some vibration around 60mph. I can feel it through the floorboard and steering. I'm assuming I need to check my driveshaft and make sure the Ujoints are tight. I remember reading something on npora about having your drive shaft balanced?How often does that have to happen? I also need to get my tires balanced. What all can cause a vibration like the one I'm describing?

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  9. I don't think the ratio is printed on the axle, unfortunately. AFAIK only the manual trucks had the 4.3 gears, so unless the donor was manual, you do probably have the right axle. You could check either by taking it apart and counting teeth or by turning the pinion to see how many turns of that equals one turn of the wheels. The limited slip means you won't have to check both sides like you would with an open diff (assuming it's still good). If you turn the pinion four and a half times, and the wheels turn a little less than once, that'll be the HG46 you're after. If it turns less than once, you've got the wrong gears.
     
    I have heard of wheel bearings failing a while after a collision. The other evidence you've found does suggest that the truck took a hit. Again, I'm curious what's inside your old axle.
     
    Nice trailer!
    When I turn the (yolk ) if that's what its called,before I put the axels back in it was smooth as silk, afrer I put axels back in is when I hear the grinding noise. I haven't opened the diff yet, but will in the coming week. Probably bearings I'm guessing. What do you think? I got that axle indtalled from the junkyard all I got left to do is hook up brake lines drive shaft and make sure everything's tight and 2 specs. You know your s&%t man I give you kudos on that. You said from the get-go that you didn't think it was the rear differential. I believe your right.

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  10. Also IIRC the WD21 axle is a different length, and the panhard rod mount is on the wrong side. Also the wrong spline to hybridize a WD21 diff into an R50 housing.  

    Looking at the diagram for the rear axle, if you've got the axles out, I'd grab the bearing cages (what you unbolted from the axle housing to free the axles) and see if either of them has any end float, weeble-wobble, bad noises, anything that reminds you of the noise you heard. I can't think of anything you'd hurt by spinning the rear end with no axles, though I'm not sure how well the oil would stay in the diff. The ring gear's supposed to throw it all from hell to breakfast, so I wouldn't be surprised if it ran down one or both axle tubes and made a mess. Again I very much doubt it's the diff, but I understand wanting to check under every possible rock before putting it back together.

     

    I'm taking the rear end out tonight and will find out if the rear diff is the problem.Everything has been delayed due to the monsoon that passed through Knoxville the past 24hours. All I have is a covered car port/patio. Finally drying up.I figured instead of trying to put the axles back in, replace the seals and the bearings I just decided to go ahead and get a rear end from Pull-a-part. I can tighten bolts to specs and put things back together easier than changing bearings, replacing seals without the right tools. I messed up I think. I didn't look at the numbers on the plate to make sure the donor a 97 SE 4wd had the same numbers as mine. It does however have the orange sticker (LSD oil only) Did I screw up[mention=30891]Slartibartfast[/mention]? Whats the numbers and letters on the housing represent?106$ out the door. I can take it back and swap if need be. Im also pretty sure my Pathy was hit on the drivers side at one time or another because that's the side that had the rust when I purchased it,it's also the side that the control arm was bad on. And not only that when I upgraded my tail lights I noticed that the tail light on the driver side is an aftermarket tail light so with the rust, aftermarket tail light the LH control arm bushings bad and the paint job flaking I'm pretty sure it was wrecked and hit on the driver side (LH)at one time or another. Would that cause problems later on down the road with the rear diff. I've not done a car fax. I still talk to previous owner and he said it was never wrecked when he owned it. 

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