Mrelcocko
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Posts posted by Mrelcocko
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56 minutes ago, tobin_r50 said:
gorgeous truck!
Thank you. I’ve enjoyed every minute with her. A lot of elbow grease, time and money, but she’s been well worth it.
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Put a new cheapo Dual deck in. I’ve had her now 6 years and have loved every minute.
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97 Quey with Bosch Oscar fog’s recessed into the grill. Easy add on. The grill is actually still one piece.
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Well to my surprise it stopped. Has not done it in 3 days so maybe It worked itself out somehow. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it. I didn’t feel anything either when turning the wheel.
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The rain hasn’t helped any. When I get a dry moment I’ll check these things. I appreciate all the help.
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I had an alignment done about three weeks ago and today I noticed whenever I turn left and then turning the wheel back straight. I feel a pop. Can anyone think of what it might be? I feel it through the steering wheel. Thanks for reply’s ahead of time .
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I removed the rear driver’s side (US) panel to connect a trailer light connector and found things I hadn’t expected. First, there was a Bose amplifier even though the factory installed radio was not Bose (still had the factory sticker on it). Second, there were four unused connectors that I have no idea what are for. In the photo there are the two blue ones, a round din(?) one, and the white one near the floor. I looked through the electrical section in the FSM with no luck. Can anyone tell me?
Possibly for DVD player or CD changer.
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That is a weird one.
The flashing OD light isn't a test of the OD cancel system, it's a blinky-lights transmission diagnostic system (a holdout from the first-gen trucks). There are instructions in the AT section of the service manual (download for free here) to decode the flashes, but if you have an OBDII scanner, you can just plug that in and get the same info without learning to read judgement flickers. Looking for the flashing light at startup is just a quick way to see whether the transmission computer is upset about something. You may have to check this with the OD switch on (idiot light off); I'm not sure if it can turn the light off to flash out codes.
If you do have an OBDII scanner, I would be curious to check the live data and see what the computer thinks the vehicle speed is. If the live data matches reality, that suggests that the sensor is okay, and the gauge is acting up. If live data matches the incorrect gauge, either the sensor is acting up (and I'm not sure how it would generate a signal when the truck wasn't moving), or whatever's wrong in the cluster is also sending bogus info to the computer.
The service manual has some basic circuit checks for the speedo circuit on EL-91. Looks like it's just checking power, ground, and the wiring to the sensor. Without those things, the gauge would not be moving at all, so I'm guessing they're not the problem. Still, not a bad idea to run those checks anyway to make sure the readings are correct. A present but incorrect speed sensor signal or weak voltage could be confusing the circuitry and making it do weird things.
While the cluster is out, check that the screws holding the circuitry to the back of the cluster, especially the four screws behind the speedometer, are clean and tight. Those are the electrical connections for the gauges. The first-gen clusters are built similarly, and I've read you can sometimes fix a glitchy tach in those by loosening and re-tightening the screws.
I see in the video that the needle isn't going down to zero, even with the power off. That makes me wonder if there's something physically stopping it or binding it up. If none of the above gets you anywhere, I would take the clear plastic cover off and check that the needle moves freely. Then, either way, I'd tear the cluster down further in search of the issue. Unless there was an obvious smoking gun like a dead fly in the mechanism or a cracked solder joint, I would still end up throwing a new (used) cluster at it.
Good luck! Let us know what you find.
How hard would it be to put a 98 Cluster in a 97? The 98 has the digital odometer read out and the 97 has the analog? Would it be simply plug and play? I’m having the same issue with my speedometer working sometimes and others it’s not. I can reset the trip and when pushing hard on the trip reset sometimes my speedometer will start working. Really curious about switching a 98 into my 97.
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Never ended up actually posting my E-Fan swap besides some info on another post. If I had to do it again, dual 12" not 10.
Exactly what was the reason. I’m not trying to sound like a jerk just curious what’s the benefit of it having an electric fan?
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Doing more research I see that the 1320 code relates to a bad signal from to the transistor or coil. Then I remember how the connection to the distributor would not click together so I taped it temporarily. Checking I noticed the connection was loose and I managed to get the connector to lock in which solved that no fire issue. I still was getting a P1705 and a P0120 and more research showed those codes are both related to the TPS connection. Well when I cleaned the throttle body that connection would not lock in either but it seemed to stay in place anyway. So I go to check it and sure enough it has backed out some. Just enough to lose signal it seems. I also managed to get it to snap together and now I have no codes. Taking it for a spin to warm the engine it seemed like it was back to normal but when I stopped and put it in park the idle was still a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpms.
I think that may be due to me moving the TPS before so I will check that out later but at least she runs well now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a nice day so besides firing up the grill I will see if I can straighten out the idle.
Thanks a bunch Mrelcocko. I see you are on the east side of the state up around Knoxville. I am on the west side of the state north of memphis
Your welcome. This group is the go to when your having problems with your R50. There’s a lot of good people here and the information is infinite. Much better than Facebook any day of the week. Yeah I’m an East Tennesseean through and through.
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I posted a few months ago about changing the cam seals on my wife's 1999 Pathfinder. Well the pathfinder was running fine before doing that but not so much now.
I decided to clean the throttle body and have had nothing but problems since. First I could not get the idle back down to normal. It stayed around 1500 rpm's or so with some surging thrown in for good measure. I tried the whole idle relearn thing about 50 times but never could make it work. Had a misfire on #6 which was due to an old spark plug I changed out and that took care of that. Then a misfire on #5 which came after a knock sensor code kept popping up. I noticed the distributor loose and the hole was stripped where the hold down bolt goes. I found another distributor hold down plate at my local u pull it wrecking yard which got rid of the knock sensor code.
Are you with me so far? Anyway after all that the idle speed is still too high and now i am getting other codes like the P1705, a transmission code and a P0120 which is a TPS code. So I clear the codes and drive it down the road and back to warn the engine. Upon pulling in my driveway she dies and would not restart. So now it is also showing a P1320 which has to do with the ignition signal. Does this sound like the ECM might be going bad? I don't see how all these codes could suddenly pop up after no issues for many years save an oil leak which was taken care of.
Oh for the good old days when cars did not have computers and a multitude of sensors.
The Ignition signal p1320 is the distributor or a problem with it. Have you set the fast cam idle by chance? Also have you messed with any screws on the throttle body? I recommend downloading the EC section of the fsm to help you diagnose some of your problems as well.
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Thanks for the reply’s. I found it to be the back glass lock mechanism tab wasn’t seating properly.
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Can you take a cluster from a 97 Qx4 and install a cluster from a 98. Analog odometer to digital odometer reading without rewiring because maybe airbag light is in different place?
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Thanks guys for the responses. Last week I had to change out the rear glass hatch striker mechanism. Remove the back hatch interior cover taking out 2 screws 10mm then just pull fast and hard and it will come right off. Make sure the glass hatch is open so you can fully remove trim piece. Anyway after I installed the used striker I pulled out of a doner Qx4 everything worked fine for a week. Now my back glass hatch switch isn’t working the hatch and the rear wiper is inop. I checked the rear wiper wiring diagram and the hatch glass switch diagram and all fuses relays/amps are good. I can only assume that the reason neither one are working is the control unit I think the Smart Control unit or whichever one it is thinks the back glass is open hence the reason the rear wiper isn’t operating. I know the rear wiper won’t operate if the back glass isn’t shut completely. It doesn’t make since though because it worked for a week now it’s doing this. I also noticed my anti theft security light isn’t blinking like it should when locking all the doors. It’s acting like it isn’t setting the theft system. My lights flash upon locking with the remote but the security light never goes solid for a few seconds then into the flash pattern. It blinks like a door is open all the time. It’s really strange. I had to replace the drivers side door lock mechanism the one inside the door with the rod attachment about 2 years ago and noticed after I done that if I locked with the remote and then used the key to unlock drivers door the alarm would go off. I figured was due to using one from another QX4 is why the alarm would go off when using key in drivers door it wasn’t original mechanism to vehicle but I’m not sure why it would have started doing that. Maybe someone knows?
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How many remotes can be programmed to a 97 QX4. My doors will lock on there on unless I’m right in thinking someone has a remote programmed other than the 2 I already have programmed.
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I love the look. All that really matters is if you dig it.
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Would the throttle position sensor have anything to do with acceleration and the way the trans acts? Curious because I was told once by a mechanic that throttle issues and trans shifts have a lot to do if the TP sensor is set correctly.
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I was having the same problem, but I glued mine on. Well I used some bathroom grade caulk. That way if I ever needed to remove it without breaking the cap I could do so.
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Hey guys figured someone in here would be able to answer my question I’ve been driving my Qx4 lately And today I used the AC and drove a little bit around town went to the park came back home I was walking by and put my hand on the passenger side fender and it was almost too hot to touch the driver side was the same way so my question is how much heat is too much is it normal for the fenders to be extra hot while running the AC?
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Qx4 @ dusk in East Tennessee
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Thanks guys I appreciate the help.
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Hey guys on the 3.3 it calls for 87, but would it hurt to put anything higher in it? I’m asking cause my girlfriend has over a dollar off a gallon and she has a 2000 Maxima that takes 92.
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Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I replaced my entire front suspension. Also replaced both axels. I didn’t replace wheel bearings. I replaced inner and outer tie rods, swaybar bushings and links as well. Anything that had to do with the suspension I replaced.