micahfelker

If you're going for a v8, I would urge you to go for a VH45DE rather than an LS. The vh45de is a Nissan made motor that was used in the 90-96 Infiniti Q45. From the factory the motor puts out 310hp and 330ft/lb of torque. It's stronger than pretty much any other option out there, and is notorious for being able to push close to 1000hp on stock internals. Another benefit is it's a Nissan motor for a Nissan rig, putting a GM motor in would be a sin! Lol Here's a thread on a guy who did this swap: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18663-vh45-swap-sas-update-merged-threads/

Heck yeah man my pleasure! Again, keep us updated with pictures when you get everything together!

Unfortunately, I pretty much guarantee it's the sheetmetal that the hinges attach to that's bent. It's incredibly weak, while the hinges themselves are pretty solid. My back right door hinge thing ripped the sheet metal it was attached to clean off just on the part that keeps the door held open, so it still opens and closes perfectly but just falls shut if there's wind or if it's parked on a hill or whatever. Anyway, all that to say that the metal it ripped out was super duper thin, so you may have to experiment with trying to leverage the door upwards to pull the metal back into place. Can you see (pictures maybe?) if it looks like the metal itself is bent or if it actually is just the hinge?

You can fit 31's with no lift, but 33's will need more than 2" of lift to fit without a ton of rubbing/trimming. Both 31's and 32's are a good size for about 2" of lift, but you pretty much need 16" wheels to fit more than 31's. With 15's the options in the range you listed are 31x10.5, 32x11.5, and 33x12.5. With only 2 inches anything over 10.5 wide is gonna rub like crazy on your fenders when you turn and require some major trimming. With 16's, however, you have 265/70/16 (31x10.5), 265/75/16 (32x10.5), and 285/75/16 (33x11.5) available. To make it easy I'll try to list some easily achievable heights and what size tires you can safely run with minimal trimming. I'll keep it to full inch diameters to make it simple. sp=spacer LR=Land Rover springs Lift amount (in)..........Max tire size with 15's........... Max tire size with 16's none..........................31x10.5r15.............................265/70r16 (31x10.5) 1.75-2 (OME).............31x10.5r15.............................265/75r16 (32x10.5) 2-2.5 (AC)..................32x11.5r15.............................285/75r16 (33x11.5) 3 (AC+sp/LR).............33x12.5r15.............................285/75r16 (33x11.5) OME: http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html AC: https://www.4x4parts.com/c-1057013-suspension-suspension-lifts-lift-packages-pathfinder-1996-2004-pathfinder.html Spacers: https://sfcreation.com/t/pathfinder-1996-2004-r50-platform I'm not linking any Land Rover springs just because there's so many different ones that would take way too long. Also here's a link for those poly bushings while I'm thinking of it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Upper-and-Lower-Arm-Bushing-Kit-Fits-96-04-QX4-Pathfinder-PSB-594-/221822048153?fits=Model%3APathfinder Just let me know if you need anything else!

Depends on what you want man! ... briefly If you scroll through the topics for a bit you can also check out the thread on fitting Land Rover springs in the rear. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43810-land-rover-rear-lift-spring-install/ There's a link to a site in there with a list of part numbers for all the different spring rates and lengths and stuff, and there's a ton of useful information and pictures in the thread that multiple people have contributed regarding which springs give how much lift and how they ride and whatnot. If you don't find what you're looking for there, just post up with what height you want and whatever and I'll try to find either links or part numbers for you!

Yeah man you bet! Keep us posted with progress and pictures!

Yeah I've heard similar things from a lot of people... but the one I got for 50 bucks lasted 3 years and I just replaced it with the same one again this year when it went bad. Obviously a more expensive one is probably better but for the price you can't beat it, especially considering I can't afford anything more lol

Sorry guys I don't know why that first one ended up sideways /: stinkin tapatalk Hopefully you can turn your head enough to see! lol

Did a little snow wheeling with some guys in Bozeman this weekend, I think the place was called little bear but I can't remember. We hit a closed gate unfortunately after not too long, but thankfully Josh in the expedition brought us so entertainment by getting stuck on the way back down. On to the pictures! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Yep definitely sound like a distributor. I've had the same problem multiple times and the distributor always fixes it. It's super easy and cheap to do, you can get a new one for like 50 bucks on amazon and it only takes about 20 minutes to put in. https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Distributor-Pathfinder-Frontier-221001W601/dp/B072KR47JN/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522082881&vehicle=1996-67-893-------------0&sr=1-3&ymm=1996%3Anissan%3Apathfinder&keywords=1996+nissan+pathfinder+distributor&dpID=4132fbG-f2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Welcome to the r50 crew! Yeah you have to have the transmission in neutral when going into 4 low, but switching in between 4 high and 2 high is pretty easy, just pull the level back and push it forward. If you force it downwards (like towards the floor) it'll grind. If you try switching between 4lo and 4hi in any gear besides neutral the transfer case will grind and not want to come in or out because the transmission is still connecting your power to the driveshafts and whatnot. Since 4lo and 4hi have a different gear ratio in the transfer case, if you try to switch between the 2 without disconnecting the trans so to speak (going into neutral) you'll have two parts going different speeds trying to connect or pull apart which obviously won't be good. AC stands for Automotive Consumers and like Remus said, is sold by 4x4parts. This is a coil spring lift that gives you a 2-3" height gain due to a higher spring rate and longer, thicker coil than factory. OME springs (rocky-road.com) are the same concept, just less expensive and a little less height. AC springs will give you a bit more than 2" of lift, and OME will give you right around 2. These are different than spacers because they not only give you added height, but they also give you a better ride and more articulation. Spacers will give you height, but will not help your performance in any way, in fact it will more than likely lower it. Putting a spacer in the rear (given you also add longer shocks) will give you height but you will gain no extra travel out of your suspension. It will flex the same amount, just a few inches lower relative to the "frame." A longer spring, however, will give you both the height you want and allow your axle to flex more, meaning more wheels on the ground at any given moment, meaning more traction, meaning more mad off road skills! Lol For the front, adding a longer coil into your strut will give you height and a better ride, but won't change your articulation because the strut is still the same size. Therefore, at full droop (strut shocks all the way extended) your control arms will not hang any lower than they would at full droop with stock coils. This is good, because your cv axles were not made to function at any angle over full droop with a stock configuration. A spacer serves the same function in the front as in the rear. Placed in between your strut assembly and your strut tower, spacers will give you increased height by pushing the strut down from it's original mounting point. The problem with this, however, is that your suspension now will still droop the same amount as it did before when flexing, only pushed down 2 more inches. Since your cv axles were not designed to handle the added 2 inches at full droop, they will bind up and you'll end up breaking something. Adding a spacer to the front will give you height, but actually hurt your performance. For this reason, if you ever drive off road I wouldn't recommend any sort of spacer over an inch. If you're gonna lift your rig, go with springs. It's far worth the extra money knowing your performance is improving over stock rather than getting worse, and will save you money fixing axles in the long run. If you just use your rig on the street and just want the extra height for the looks, then spacers are a great and cost effective option! Before you put in your new trailing arms, get rid of those rubber bushings and throw some poly ones in there! Down the road the rubber ones are just gonna wear out again and you'll get death wobble and be forced to replace them. Poly bushings will give you a better ride, and you'll never have to worry about replacing them again! This is gonna be my next mod, as my sway is getting reallyyyy bad. Sorry if that was more information than you asked for lol, I just want to make sure you're well informed (: Let me know if you have any questions!! Good luck!

Thanks Matthew!!

Hopefully this works Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

Since I haven't posted pics in awhile here's some recent ones Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk Edit: A couple of them were really bad quality for some reason so I'm gonna try those 2 again.

Man your interior is clean! Your rig looks amazing man

Although they aren't technically AT, I would strongly recommend Duratracs. They're best tire in existence if you ask me. The ride height of that second pic (with the 2" spacers) is how it should have come from the factory. Silly Nissan leaving no wheel gap!

What lift did you go with? It looks good!

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en This extension will let you see everything

Goodness gracious those tail lights are awful I guess I didn't notice in the small pics on my phone but seeing it bigger I can definitely say the rear end does not look good at all. The font looks nice besides the rust though. Where was that bar mounted?

Dang that's super weird... the tail lights looked almost completely even with yours in the pic you sent me

Did you figure out if it had a lift or not?

It's called Photobucket Hotlink Fix. I was using the one you showed me and it stopped working too, and this was the best reviewed one that came up when I searched for it in extensions

Nevermind I downloaded a different extension and they showed up! Nice mod though! Are you gonna leave it black or paint it to match the bumper?

I can't see the pictures with photobucket. Which is weird since I have the extension that should let me see them

Random question, why do you have a high lift if you don't have sliders? Your rig looks good man. Another thing you can do to get the roof basket to sit lower is get the crossbars from a pre facelift model from a pick n pull. I think someone bent their roof with it bolted right to the rails when the body flexed