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cham

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Everything posted by cham

  1. Anyone know what range of torque the spec is for those 2 bolts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Ever since I got this truck its had at least some sort of noticeable shifting sluggishness, mainly from 1-2 at slow speeds. Also a noticeable lag between gears when accelerating fairly quickly. I had a shop just change the fluid (not a flush but I think something more than just a pan drop cant quite remember) but they must have overfilled it quite a bit. What do you mean by 1/2 an inch up the cable, I know my dipstick is a flat piece of metal all the way down I believe ours are different. Are you sure that much is okay?
  3. I cannot for the life of me get a consistent reading on the trans dipstick when at "operating temperature" because its such an ambiguous term. Not only that, I get various results depending if I drove around a block to get it up to operating temp versus letting it sit at idle from cold up to its "operating temp" which is me just waiting until the engine temperature needle settles. One thing I always perform is shifting through all of the gears before checking. I read on a forum a cross check is the best method meaning checking both when cold and hot. From what I've gathered online, a cold check is when the trans is between 86 df and 122 df while a hot check is when its between 122 df and 176 df. Now I don't have a dedicated transmission temp gauge so there is no way of truly knowing but does anyone have experience with which methods work best to get you in these realms of temperature with the most accuracy. I've just realized that the shop that touched my transmission last overfilled the trans to the point where regardless of what I did it was well above the hot max with noticeable bubbles. I took about a 1/2 - 3/4 of a quart out using the drain plug and I just did a cold check this morning with good results but I am not sure if my methodology is right. It's currently around 65 df where I live. I started it up from dead cold, it had been sitting all night; after waiting maybe a couple of minutes, I shifted through all of the gears then put it in park and checked the dipstick. This seemed accurate and I have yet to check hot as I'm not sure what the best way to get it up to "operating temperature" is. If anyone has any experience with this, any info would be much appreciated. I really hope I have not been driving around for over a year with that much extra fluid in the transmission. Also what would be the best fluid I can get for a 2002 pathfinder LE auto transmission with the Auto 4WD transfer case, not sure if that makes a difference, thanks.
  4. The dimension between holes im sure varies slightly from vehicle to vehicle but mine was 22 1/8 in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thats something I definitely need to get on board with thanks for the advice. Ill be scouring amazon for the best bang for buck bluetooth obd2 scanner Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I just replaced my fan clutch so I am too interested in the validity of this statement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. That sounds like a good idea, how am I to know whether my exhaust has 4 cats or 2 pre-cats and 2 resonators? Correct me if I'm wrong but they look very similar. Also if there are broken bits of ceramic floating around in there does this generally mean I'll need to replace the whole system or at least try to clean out the internals of the rest of the exhaust?
  8. I have an 2002 LE. It shouldn’t be a cali spec vehicle as the PO was from the north east, only one owner previously. Is there potential for some pretty nasty damage to the engine if I let this go on? I’ve heard of the timing of the valves allowing a split second of opening for broken bits to be sucked back into the engine from back pressure destroying the cylinder walls. Also if I had clogged cats wouldn’t I be getting a noticeable amount of increase in the temp gauge when climbing up a hill or putting some sort of strain on the vehicle because all of the exhaust gets backed up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Ive been having issues with a recent drop in mpg. Used to be getting around 230-250 per 16 gallons and have recently noticed a pretty significant drop. Haven’t been able to go through full tanks yet but it seems I’m barely getting 100 miles for half the tank. I will say I live in the city and do drive a lot in it but thats mostly to get in and out of it. Now it seemed to have started happening after I replaced my fan clutch due to excess noise which obviously cannot be the problem but I also used some cataclean around the same time. Can this stuff have adverse effects? Ive also noticed some louder than normal pops coming from the exhaust after parking the car which makes me think something broke off. Any experience with this? And I hate to ask but what is our cats setup? Do we have 4 and the 2 closest to the engine are called precats? Ive heard a lot of terms thrown around in other threads but cant quite find the correlation yet. Sorry for all of the questions, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Is that similar to the torque pro app and what kind of luck have you gotten out of it. I’m strongly considering getting something like this to monitor things like cat converter voltage and things alike but it’s difficult to find a straight forward answer on what works or what does what. Also is it a bad idea to take the whole throttle body off to clean it instead of just taking off the intake hose and spraying in there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Here it is in all its glory. Took just over an hour of labor mainly due to taking and marking measurements/test fitting. Only thing I highly and I mean highly recommend is to have some sort of air impact wrench if you can because those bolts were frozen. Other than that fairly simple. Decided to use 3/4 EMT but I may have a version 2.0 in the future with just a flat stock bar like CNAM’s. The only reason I didn’t choose this to begin with was because I definitely don’t have the tools to drill through a 1/4in piece of solid steel. After having driven around the block I’ve noticed no huge improvement but body roll has seemed to improve pretty noticeably. Maybe feel like I can take corners faster? Im sure for most people the placebo effect is at play but I think it’s worth the what $10 max you might pay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. That would make sense because in the end it's about the lateral stiffness which most any bar has, not the bar's ability to resist shear or a bending moment. A conduit sounds like the perfect fit then. I kind of like CNAM's version though for it's simplicity to fab and look. Any thoughts? Could it be the reason for some feeling more of a difference than others due to the simple fact that the bar itself is stronger and more rigid which lets it fight better against torsion and lateral forces? I'm more than likely overthinking it, there's a very high possibility it'll be the same no matter what it used as long as it's torqued correctly.
  13. I'm planning on attempting this probably this weekend. Anyone else at all concerned about the possible head-on collision factor? I read on another thread the potential for the engine to not drop far enough in the event of a collision.
  14. Thanks RainGoat this has helped loads now just the funds for this behemoth.
  15. I have an 02 LE, that means I definitely have the unserviceable o rings?
  16. Are these parts that come with the gasket set? I'm led to believe that the o-rings around the spark plugs are non-serviceable when replacing the valve cover gaskets and wondering if this is what you are referencing. My thoughts were that you have to get new spark plugs entirely which fixes the potential problem but are there other seals that need to be ordered separately? Also I was told if the baffles are clogged inside the valve cover you will need to replace it.
  17. Also I feel like I should note I had a conversation on here with 02_Pathy about something similar. He’s got the OME HD coils setup on the front which got him a solid 1.75-2 inch lift and he partnered that with a 1inch spacer. He explicitly stated if you do this don’t go over 1 inch in spacers otherwise during full drop the CV will fail so for what it’s worth if you want that little extra more than just coils this has been proven. He said for about 2 years he did the coils alone and then added the 1inch spacers and has had good luck for a year. You will have to add camber bolts though but anyways hope this helped [emoji1690] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Since longer struts don't exist for the front, when someone says 2" coil spring lift do they mean stiffer coils that cause the body to sit 2" higher than before but the coil itself is still the same overall length as the OEM ones? Also if you use this method in order to put bigger tires on, let's say 31s or 32s for example vs the stock 29s, because the suspension still has the exact same travel it did before wouldn't you risk compressing the body/fenders into the tire itself upon bottom out or maybe even before bottom out the suspension? Even though the tires might fit well while the suspension is at its normal sag position they can still be too big for the actual stroke of the suspension? I only ask this because it seems logical to happen when I think about it but it seems when someone asks if a certain tire will fit with a certain lift is this idea taken into consideration or are they strictly asking if it'll fit at all when the truck is at it normal compression? Sorry a lot of questions I know, that's the beauty of this forum!
  19. I'm also installing a catch can when I do my valve covers this summer. I'm consuming a good amount of oil and after checking the throttle body the other day it scared me a little bit but now I know for sure where a lot of it's going. I at least want to eliminate the problems of oil running through the intake and cats and everything else, I don't mind adding a quart every 1000-2000 miles. My question is what's your recommendation for a quality one that'll last the life of the car and has a clear indicator of how filled it is? Are the hoses secured with a clamp so there's no chance of them flying off due to excess pressure? Excuse me if I seem ignorant don't know enough about them. I've always wondered if there are any drawbacks with these things like poorer mpg or power or added pressure to the system because why don't these things come on cars straight from the factory! Engine wear would be cut down tremendously. I know there's the whole thing about having to empty it but I mean come on, your average joe these days babies his taco or wrangler anyways
  20. Trying to filter through everything as best as I can so I don't miss something significant. I appreciate the in-depth info here's to hoping I can comprehend most of it. What it seems like to me from just my own personal experience and research is a huge factor to the oil consumption is excess blowby past the piston seals which once in the crankcase is sucked through the pcv valve consisting of not just exhaust gases. Once rerouted through the intake, siphoned oil begins to either coat whatever it comes in contact with before reaching the combustion chamber or is then burnt off within the combustion chamber which then contributes to a clogged cat, a lot to go wrong here. I've found that the excess blowby is attributed to obviously the fact that we've got older cars and seals wear out but on the other hand have read about the cylinder walls themselves being discovered to have more taper than they should which would explain premature wear and oil consumption. This could be due to poor quality control who knows but it makes sense considering some R50s just never had a problem with oil burning and some did, check that a lot did. I'm sure this might not be anything new to you all but thought I'd share anyway just my 2 cents. I'm open to anyone finding flaw with my theory, there's definitely a lot of people on this forum who know more about the VQ35DE than I do. I digress, from what it sounds like though I'm going to need new spark plugs as well which isn't a huge deal mine are on probably 30-40k. Speaking of spark plugs I've seen a lot of debate and is there a clear superior plug over the others or pretty much just get what was originally factory installed? Now in reference to the valve cover itself, is it pretty easy to determine if the baffles are clogged when you have it in front of you? The hard part is knowing to order it ahead of time or not because I'd hate to have the engine apart in that kind of state while waiting for it to be shipped. Lastly the only thing I'm really confused about is what you said RainGoat about the Power Valve/Butterfly Valve screws being what needs to be removed and loctited if hopefully they are still there. You said there are 6 butterfly valves with 2 screws each which equates to 12 screws. At the bottom of the post, you mentioned there being 8 in number. Is this something totally different or are you giving me a reference for getting extras in case yeah some have backed out and are missing and the set happens to only come with 8 screws?
  21. I’ll take your word for it but just because what the heck I’m going to try it out. My local junk yard has got somewhere close to 10 of the prefacelift pathfinders. I’m also only having them there pretty much for aesthetics vs removing my current factory ones completely. If i end up getting a rack i’ll be looking at that other thread around here somewhere where someone fabricated a rack flush with the roof rather tham sitting on crossbar supports.
  22. Are those middle 3 supports shown in the photo pretty much necessary then? They’re the tiny ones more flush witth the roof.
  23. I've always liked the look of the more aero crossbars. What kind of roof rack bars do you have on in this pic? Would they fit on an 02 LE you think? After some research, this seems like it's the oem crossbars! Will they fit a 2002?
  24. I've had my 02 LE for around 4 years now and I love it to death which is why I'm willing to spend the money to aid in longevity even though it'll soon rack up 170k miles. Now I recently solved an issue with the fan clutch which I had been suspect about for years but funny enough everyone I talked to claimed it was synonymous of these pathfinders. Eventually, I pulled the trigger on a hunch and voila the loud semi-truck roar was gone and returned was some low-end torque and slightly better mpg at least it seems that way so far. This was a great step in the right direction but it has opened up now all the peculiar and interesting sounds coming from the engine which I had not been hearing before. Now I have also been burning oil ever since I can remember which is nothing surprising but never understood its potential effects and how destructive it can be. I decided to take a look at the throttle body the other day and it just about scared the @!*% out of me how bad it was compared to what I've seen online from people showing how to clean them. My valve cover gaskets for sure need to be replaced as I can see cooked oil just outside of them but what this all means is the PCV system is letting loads of crud feedback into the intake and I'm a little nervous to take a look inside the plenum. I plan to get the notorious valve cover gasket replacement done this summer but due to the high cost, I wanted to make a list of everything needed to avoid ever having to undergo this process again. So I'll start out with what I already know should be done and if anyone has any recommendations, or advice I would be more than willing to listen. Forgive me if I sound ignorant as I don't know enough about this procedure. The gaskets other than the valve covers, are there a lot that need to be ordered and should I only use oem factory parts? I feel like I've read somewhere that Nissan released altered/improved gaskets for maybe the valve cover or some related gaskets in this area to help improve the stock ones in our R50s. Can't confirm how valid this is. It sounds like as well that there is a left and right side valve cover gasket and to me it looks like both need to be replaced because I can see cooked oil on both sides. Now something I've recently been looking into is an oil catch can which sounds like a savior for anything intake related and better for the cats as well. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a high-quality one which will last the life of the car? I also wanted to bring up if there is ever a possibility of adding this altering the pressure of the system in some way and throwing off a sensor or affecting the performance of the engine? I just want to make sure I cover all of my basis, excuse me if I'm sounding a little anal. Also because of all this crud and grime being thrown back into the engine, what do I need to look into cleaning when disassembling everything down to the valve covers. Would this include the upper and lower plenum? For sure the throttle body but I might as well wait until I do this job as it could just build up again in between now and I when I get around to doing this. I've heard the actual valves themselves can be pretty bad if an engine exerts a lot of blowby but I'm sure I can't really get to them even if I go down to the valve covers? That's unknown to me maybe someone can clarify. Thank the lord it's not a GDI haha. Maybe I can use some sort of solvent while I've got everything apart? Anyways finally I wanted to address the screws that everyone warns about backing out due to vibrations and causing a ruckus. I don't know if it's just me but it seems like either there are multiple things that need to be loctited to avoid this or there is simply different names for the same set of screws. I've heard butterfly screws, power valve screws, and maybe it's just the valve cover screws that everyone is talking about. Maybe all of these need to be loctited. Regardless I've said enough this one is a long one but if I plan on keeping this truck for any significant period of time this needs to be done and hopefully only once. Let me know of any suggestions and maybe how coils/injectors/spark plugs lie in all of this mess.
  25. I ended up getting my mechanic to do it as I'm at Uni so don't have too much free time. Sorry I can't help you out with that one but from what I saw of the 3.3L procedure, it looks pretty simple and I hear it's very similar to the 3.5L engine.
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