BendRed

Done it plenty of times as long as you use fuel injected certified fuel lines and proper clamps . Doesn't hurt to double the clamps up as well .

intermittent leads me to believe either the copper hold screws on the back of the instrument cluster are loose or bad connection and or bad cluster all together.

shoot man , $150 would have gotten you professional diagnostics done and then you would know exactly what needs to be fixed .... just saying.

5w20 seems light - I use 10w30 dino in my 95 XE with 100k miles on it. If your just doing crank case to syn you wont see an over all improvement as the parasitic drag of oil on the crank case is negligible . Now if you do all drive train fluids to syn then you may see a 1-2 mpg increase ...... MAY! As far as damage .... non will incur but with the amount of detergents in the synthetic if you have any weeping or slight leaking , it will progressively become worse as the detergents clean away the gunk at the seals . Also , if you already burn oil , you WILL burn more.

How much have you spent thus far trying to fix this ?

Ok just responding to my own question as I have definitive now of max top mounting depth. Front = 2 1/4 Rear roof = 2 3/4

Cheap and lift dont go together .

After looking thru crutch field looks like its less then 2 1/4

woundering ........ ? You mean wondering ? LOL 2-3" lift

Replacing the 5x7 speakers all around in the 95 pathfinder XE. Car is not near me and wondering about the factory mounting depths . I have a line on speakers that are 2 5/16 and wonder if that is shallow enough for doors and roof . Thx

not noticeable inside ..... a wee more snort outside

Any back fires at the air box ? If so then you would have a vac leak and more then likely at the intake manifold . Just a thought.

DAYUM! YES , PLEASE KEEP THIS GOING , posted .

Oh man . I feel for you. Im about to dip into the same job after I perform a complete tune up , water pump , timing belt , thermostat , cam seals , etc . Keep us posted on the walk thru/step by step . Good luck

When I was trying to diagnose the NO heater fan I ran across that thread . Once I fixed the Meter fuse , I got everything back and as soon as I started the fan blower I heard the rustling and immediately disassembled and cleaned

Um yeah ..... that will cause a noisy fan and possibly a fire!

OH HELL YES! 10 amp Meter fuse was dead. Replaced it and I have a working instrument cluster and heater blower fan . AWESOME! Now I can officially drive this rig and put it thru its paces . Admin should sticky this for reference to the METER fuse .

Thx guys . Oh and I finally found the FSM yay

Meter fuse ? No inline fuses at the battery present .

Nope that was for the starter . removed the cluster and inspected the circuit board on the back and tightened the copper screws for each mechanism - still nothing .

Hmmm ...... possible culprit ?

The Y pipe is where the 2 exhaust manifolds come together right before the Cat in the form of a "Y" .

Didn't you know ...... thats a dealer option Thanx for the input guys , Ill look over those today . cheers

Its all good if it takes me some time to figure it out . Its for mey son and he still has 2 years before he drives . In fact , he works at my shop in the summer so maybe he will get the chance to trouble shoot

I have been trying to find the FSM. Im wondering if there is a wiring issue because the kid I bought it from just installed a dvd/stereo setup in it.