Zraver

Me, I am the only modded R50 in the area I know of. I get some love from some of the other rare Nissan wheelers, but mostly strange lookers from the Jeepers and Yotalerders. For the Ozarks the R50 is ideally sized and its only draw back is the damnable unibody that blocks real lift. If you are on the FB page I am Jason Belcourt send me a fr and I'll link you in to the Natural State Overland page. We do 2 big events a year in the Ozarks.

^ notice the mud. The spacers on the front means I throw a lot of mud and it can come in the window. If you plan on actually wheeling then lift, trim 33 is a very good thing to do. Bigger tires are the only way to lift the diff. Don't go up in wheel size, just go up in tire size. A deflated 15" has more foot print than a deflated 16" which has more than a 17". Also because we can't really lift our trucks armor is a good idea. Full skid plate including diff cover set with rock/super sliders. At least it is in the Ozarks where I wheel.

I had to trim/roll my fenders and cut away the flares near the door to make 285/75/16's fit without severe rubbing. I also had to use 2" wheel spacers in the front. In the rear its not so bad, no need to trim or space but I will occasionally bottom out going over obstacles and it a gap is starting to appear between the body and fender flares in the rear.

WAM Bumpers makes a rear bumper with swing arm. They claim they bought out TAG/Kennesaw Mountain and are not just another version of them. So far the reviews have been solid. I plan on getting one in the spring when my tax money gets here. https://www.facebook.com/WAMBumpers/

I've seen one R50 with a rear tire carrier. The part numbers you listed are for the underbody carrier though not the uber rare swing arm.

Christmas display on dash is alternator until ruled out. Hook your pathy up with another vehicle running right via jumper cables. see if the delivery of good voltage fixes the problem if it does, or at least makes it better there is the first thing to fix.

I put mine on to stop the downward travel of the control arms past the point where my cv axles bound up. Since no one sells sfd's any more and I am neither rich nor a fabber it was a work around. Trade some traction for a mechanical safety margin. I was able to wheel it pretty hard this past weekend and not having that fear of a lifted wheel made the experience a whole lot more enjoyable.

and their on...

I used your post to order mine, prices are a bit different now but not much and the straps are 4ply now not 2. Looking forward to getting them welded on so I can stop sweating so much on the trail.

I've noticed the rear end float on the OME meds, but I am poor so I have to Shek it, "that'll do donkey, that'll do". Totally jelly at the SFD and being albe to do all those mods in one sitting. Congrats btw.

Thank God for 2 things right now. One the search feature finding this post, two you providing all the part numbers and detailed pics. Saved me a bunch of trial and error. Thank you.

I have strobing white LED's in the same spot as your amber, zip strips last 3-4 months and then break, but haven't found a better way to mount them either.

Flexisteel tape

Duct taped my intake air hose.... it broke on the trail and tape got me home.

14ish.... but lots of extra weight added to my rig

If you are stock height it eats into your approach angle

I had to trim the plastic flairs back and roll the lower portion of the fender near the convergence of the bottom and the door. It aint pretty, but it works.

I had a brush guard on a suburban and it failed on a low speed impact. I have a full bumper and bull bar/stinger on my pathy.

that brush guard is bomb.... oh wait errr....

Had to remove the bottom 1/4 of the fender flair and roll in the bottom part of the fender using a small hammer to stop the rubbing. Also it is a natural mud strap with out the fender liner to post wheeling washes will be a must. Also at full droop I have cv axel binding so some limiting straps will be getting installed in short order and it means I likely need to add front lockers sooner rather than later since my articulation will be compromised. Overall still worth doing for the increased ground clearence and wider foot print. Really wish some one still made sub frame drops.

Sweet, now that I have my lift from you installed I need to send you some pics!

R51 Pathy is body on frame and bigger.

Sorry for the delay, I live in Arkansoggy (formerly known as Arkasnas). We've had 14 inches of rain here in the past week. My 300zx flooded out and will be a total loss and a tree fell through my fiance's house so I've been moving her in with me. 1. They should clear with 1.5" 2. Significant rubbing of the fender liner against the firewall. I will need to trim or melt. 3. Ruyoken/ Supreme Suspensions for the spacers and sfcreation1 off of eBay for the lift. I think he is a member here. His lift installed without further modding needed on my part.

Finally added some lift (2.5"), took off the step sides and front mud flaps and put on some 33's (32.9) on my 01 R50. I used 2" wheel spacers in the front to clear the strut tower, none in the back. It was transformative and I can't believe I waited this long. https://i.imgur.com/9qpFgwr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kZafWQs.jpg