97Pathfinderman

Well i've been contemplating a SFD for quite some time now and one thing that I really want to do is keep my CV angle as close to factory specs as possible. Right now I have the 2" AC lift coils in the front and this increases the angle some. It hasn't been much trouble yet, i've just busted a few CV boots. What I was wondering is could I use my lift coils combined with some 2" spacers (Flurey's for example) and then making 4" block spacers for the subframe and engine mounts to put my CV angle to proper specs. Would this be possible or would the strut spacer have to be at an angle like it comes with the 4" kits? I really don't want to go to 6 inches of lift because I don't want to have the extra CV angle.

Ok thanks a lot I will correct my mistake this weekend!!

So do I have mine backwards? Because I think my struts are a little different than yours. All mine has is the small engraved v looking notch on the top perch.

So the little v looking notch is supposed to face the engine?

Do I have my strut tower aligned right because someone told me on the forums that the little notch should be facing the wheel and every other strut I have seen on other pathfinders have the notch facing the body. When turning my wheel it makes kind of a bowing noise and kind of creaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check this guy out for how to replace your boots. If your axles are clicking it would be easier to buy a new axle. You can buy them pretty cheap off rock auto. Some people say that their products are not up to par but i've never had a problem with any of their things and i've ordered plenty of their parts. Good Luck!!

I cleaned the MAF and all the computer reads is a knock sensor being out. The next think I will do is change distributor cap and wires. Also do you think it could be a lifter or valve sticking? The previous owner didn't change the oil regularly either and under the valve covers was pretty sludgy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi I have a 97 R50 vg33 and im having some trouble with it skipping. So far i've changed all the o2 sensors, plugs, and a timing belt. It doesn't skip all the time just sometimes at start up and sometimes it will happen randomly while driving. Has anyone had this issue?

Does anyone have a good write up for super packing the lsd H233b? Mine lsd is worn quite a bit and it slips very easily.

That looks great Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah you can replace the u joints. It's pretty easy just take the shaft out then press out the old one and press the new one in. Just be careful not to loose the needle bearings that are in the caps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I forgot about that, I've just been scheming ideas in my head and it sounded it would be sweet if it could work.

Has anyone ever thought about doing away with the strut assembly entirely and mounting coilovers instead? These pictures are from an R50 sas but I was wondering if it would still be possible with the ifs.

Awesome keep me in check.

I had 1.5 in front and 2 in the back and my axles were fine. It drove basically the same as it did before. I have the ac 2" coils now but they ride a lot rougher than the stock springs with a spacer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My dads 97 was doing the same thing about a year ago and it ended up being the mass air flow sensor. Is your check engine light on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh ok last time I looked at their website I didn't even see that so I thought they had put that up since I had been on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh ok well let me know if you have to end up rotating it.

Is KrFabs back online? I just looked at their website and it looks as if they are making kits again.

Did you have to rotate the rack to make the steering work?

Oh that would work good and for the steering you can use a Dodge Durango steering box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you mount the leaf springs since there is no frame? And yeah if you plan on running 37's the d44 would probably not last that long. If you can get a built toyota axle I would go that route. Do you have a picture of your QX4?

Yeah if you have the axle I would go that route. I don't think you have to mess with the transfer case though. You have to build a cross member to weld your link brackets to and make an adapter for your coilovers where the struts go but other than that it doesn't look to difficult. Im assuming you plan on locking it too. If I had the time and funds I would do it myself!

What does the E-Locker run? And your probably right about the swap but I just hate to fork over that kind of money for suck a small component . I had a chance at getting an clean 80 series Land Cruiser for 4 grand. I probably should have bought it but its hard to give up the pathy since I already know how to work on them.

Well you defiantly could do a SAS but it would be expensive and a lot of custom fab work. I found an older post from pirate 4x4 with a pretty good write up on it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/nissan/1116165-1998-nissan-pathfinder-r50-sas.html I considered doing this myself but you could honestly buy an 80 series Land Cruiser for less and they come with electric lockers stock . You could do a sub frame drop for a lot less and install one of the Lokka lockers and have a pretty mean rig (thats what I think I will end up doing). There is a few people on these forums that would build you a sfd kit for around $400.