CDN_S4

True, thats a good point. The earliest I am expecting my wheels to be ready is mid September. Why it would ever take 6-8 weeks for steel rims is beyond me... Sent from Tapatalk

Oups, sorry, just re-read my post. I meant to say 89, not 99. the difference is 1cm. not 11 lol.

It spun freely with no resistance. I test drove it and it worked fine. At least the shimmy at 100 is now gone. Sent from Tapatalk

Yes on the CB. It's a Cobra 19DX IV Sent from Tapatalk

I opened up my radio and nothing looks fried. The fuse in the red wire seems good too. I unplugged the antenna completely from it and no matter what I do, it just reads busy. It keys in and shows that talk is active, but nothing works.... Any ideas? Sent from Tapatalk

88.5 cm driver side and 99.5 passenger side. From before and after measurements, the new shocks give an extra cm over the old ones. But once these settle that might be home again. The intent was not to lift it, but to support the spacer lift with the longer and new shocks and struts. Sent from Tapatalk

Goddammit....wish I had replaced the coils too. Now with the new shocks, the driver side is visibly sagging... The last thing I feel like doing is pulling those damn struts out again. All with hand tools and manual hand tool spring compressors....ugh, just spent 2 days on this! Sent from Tapatalk

Solution: I'm mounting it without the metal rings. Only way to fit them without sawing the bottoms off and welding the old bottoms on. Cuz I don't have the tools to do that. For anyone doing this, don't insert the metal tube rings into the the bushing or else you'll have to find a creative way of getting them out again. This is what I used. Worked well BtW lol And on another note...check out the toe on these suckers Sent from Tapatalk

Yikes....doesn't sound like fun at all. I just put it back together without doing anything to it. Probably a bad idea then eh?! Lol I haven't driven it yet as I still have a few things to do. One I find a way to get those rear shocks on, next problem is troubleshooting my CB as it says BUSY no matter what I do. I think I might have burned my transistor...?! That's the internet answer I'm getting so far from some good ol googling Sent from Tapatalk

Those are 30's on a 16" factory rim Sent from Tapatalk

Only one problem...the bottom loop on the Bilsteins is smaller than the bolt. Sent from Tapatalk

This can't be good?! Passenger side. Strut came our real easy cuz this thing came apart. Didn't do that on the other side. What is this anyways? CV joint? Sent from Tapatalk

Again One side done... Seems to sit much higher now. My old strut was completely shot. No movement at all. I have some serious tow now with this...hope the original control arms are long enough to allow for a proper alignment Sent from Tapatalk

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I actually just traded my Explorer in for one of those only S Line though, I already have an S4. Need something easier on fuel. Sent from Tapatalk

Yes these shocks and struts are made for a 2" lift. I have fleurys spacers instead of the coils, but essentially same result. I got them from AC so whatever they say fits the R50. I'd have to look it up though if it says it somewhere. Sent from Tapatalk

Received some goodies today. In the install process right now. For the fun of it I just turned my wheel inside out to see what a wide offset deep dish wheel would look and oh boy...wish I could mount them like this lol Said goodies Sent from Tapatalk

31's seem a bit small with any amount of lift IMO. I have a chance of buying really cheap 33x12.5 on 15x8's and am super tempted to go get them. I have a 2" lift with spacers and have new extended struts and shocks on the way. Should I go for it or update my order of 31" Duratrecs to 32x11.5" BFG M/Ts? From the pics I've seen in this thread, 32x11.5 seem to match and fit the dimensions of a lifted R50 best. I find 33's can almost seem to doughnutty if you know what I mean and 31's too small.

That's why they make Audi S4 Avants! 4.2 V8

My brother in law is a welder and he is fabricating one for me very much like the Tiregate ones with the spare swing out and jerry can holder. This means that the trailer hitch option is the easiest and probably most cost effective. And best of all, you can take it off when you don't need it. So if you are good with metal, or know someone that is, that would probably be the best option.

No I totally get your point. It just doesn't seem like one of those cars a 40 year old man in his midlife crisis would buy, know what I mean. And it seems THAT is a pretty good indicator for what a classic will be. How many old dudes do you see driving corvettes? I have yet to see a young guy in one lol. That's kind of my point. Cars that young guys nowadays drool over but can never afford until 20 years from now. Which is why the GTRs and R8's are on top of my list. NSX is in the same ball park. Sent from Tapatalk

Yeah ahardbody I knew my seats didn't have heaters in them, but I was wondering how if there we plugs under my seat as part of that same harness. So if I were to ever get seats with heaters in them that I could actually hook them up. Thorpe, it's not thread jacking. That's the intent of this thread. It's there for anyone that is wondering about parts they don't know what they are... But thanks for your consideration. Sent from Tapatalk

I'm pretty sure the NSX is already a classic, NO DOUBT!! Maybe not "officially" as it's not quite old yet, but nonetheless that thing has a spot reserved for sure!! Good call!! Sent from Tapatalk

Funny things go trough my head when I imagine that thing in action LOL... Especially when firing on the move LMAO...going forward one minute, then BOOM...back to where you were a minute ago Sent from Tapatalk

Thanks Pat. The pulley I'm pointing at in the picture is pretty much smack dead in the centre of the motor...but it is the highest of the 3 belts. Sent from Tapatalk