maaakaaa

I recently emailed Rough Country regarding just buying UCAs. They were going to charge about $300 for the UCAs. Superlift's are $200 on Summit Racing.

Once you have it all patched up, maybe paint the frame with POR-15. Actually, it might be a good idea to paint what you can inside of the frame before patching it. The body looks great, though. Is it lifted, or is my suspension sagging that badly?

pathycline92, I'm not the original owner and I had no problems.

Following. Neither work for me, either.

I made good use of those VG30e pictures yesterday. It seems to be running significantly smoother.

I emailed RC country a couple of weeks ago to ask about buying the UCAs separately and they quoted me at I think $295 which seemed crazy high since the full Hardbody lift is $340.

It certainly took me a bit of time and frustration to figure it out when I replaced mine.

A clearer title should help you get the right people reading your post. Also, you're probably already doing it, but keep checking craigslist. A few more qualifications will help narrow it down: auto/manual, how many miles on it, do you care how it looks, what is cheap to you?

I had Mastercraft Courser AXT tires on my last truck and liked them a lot. Mastercraft is owned by Cooper and it is a similar tread to the AT3, but a bit edgier and in my opinion better looking. Here's my write-up on them: http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=65509 One of our work trucks has the Kelly Safari TSR that was mentioned and I've been happy with them, though they pick up a fair amount of gravel.

Hey man, did you solve the brake light? A month or so back both my brake light and ABS light were on. Apparently it was low fluid because topping it off shut them off. And it was only down near the low level line. Sorry to hear about your truck broken into. I had a Honda Passport before the Pathfinder and it was broken into in my apartment lot in Longmont a couple summers back in broad daylight. It sucks. Anyway...yesterday I replaced my sway bar links and sway bar bushings. The bushings for the bar itself seemed fine, but the end link bushings were pretty bad. Its nice to be able to feel a noticeable difference in driving after doing some work! Then I got a buddy to knock loose the strut bar bolts with his impact wrench so I can get those bushings done after the snow goes away. And a few days ago I replaced the rear window--the old one had a crappy bubbling tint job and some old sticker residue. Do any of you have advice for removing the manual transmission drain plug? Mine is very tight and it looks like someone in the past started to round it out a little so I want to be careful not to destroy it and have it stuck forever.

I have the same code and am needing to dig into the injectors.

I'm having a moment of excitement, which hopefully is not misplaced. When I had my brakes done at Firestone a few months ago, they said my lower control arm bushings need replaced. Maaaaybe they were looking at these since they are obvious and connect to the LCA. Much less of a bother. Maybe I will just order the bushings are see how the rods are when I pull it apart.

I just had the seat belt warranty replacement done. The dealership had to contact Nissan to have my VIN reopened. They apparently dump old VINs out of their system if the vehicles hasn't been to the dealership in forever. But the dealership gave me no hassles and once the VIN was open they ordered the parts (kind of slow to arrive) and installed them for me. No more throwing the belts onto the seat!

Thanks! We get some salt here, though not salt belt levels. I do have 270k miles and the bushings are visibly bad, so I should just go ahead and buy the rods, too. Any specific brand recommendations on the strut rods? I plan on Energy Suspension bushings.

I need to replace my bushings--hopefully it will help cut down on the wandering. If the bushings are bad, is it normal for the strut rod itself to need replaced like Inyouface's? I'd rather not disassemble, reassemble then disassemble, reassemble again!

I finally completed my O2 sensor replacement today. After a several day regimen of PB blaster, driving to heat the pipe, trying the wrench on it, more PB blaster, more wrench, hit wrench with firewood log for "impact wrench," more PB blaster, more wrench/log/heating. I finally cut the wires and got the box end of the wrench on it, which helped me avoid rounding the hex part of the sensor, which was starting to happen with the open wrench. My plan is to replace rear differential fluid today, also. Yesterday I had my front seatbelts replaced under warranty at the dealer. No hassles at all from them!

My fan started making a lot of noise, then I blundered into this thread. After cleaning out all of this junk the fan has quieted down and my heater seems to be more effective now that it doesn't have to blow the air through a layer of forest duff. I also tried to undo the little clips and take the bottom off of the box, but gave up when it seemed more difficult than that. A couple of things I discovered while getting in there: 1) Slide the round plastic things that hold the top of the glove box toward the middle to drop it down (this took me way to long to figure out!). 2) You don't have to unscrew the glove box latch screws. I had one strip out so I drilled it out, only to discover that the whole thing was unnecessary.

I ordered an O2 sensor from Rock Auto yesterday (along with a distributor cap and rotor while I was making an order). I will see what that does when it arrives...and the weather warms up a little for more pleasant wrenching.

I checked the codes last night. I had a 33 (heated oxygen sensor) and 51 (injector circuit). After I cleared the codes, the CEL came on again, so I ran codes this morning and only got the 33 code. I guess it's time to get an O2 sensor. I notice a code 53 for oxygen sensor. What is the difference between 33 and 51? Also, any advice on what might cause the 51 code and how to deal with it? Thanks!

Thanks for the input. My check engine light had been on intermittently, then all the time, and now currently is off. I will see if I can see what codes have shown up.

Do you all use the stock mounts or heavier aftermarket mounts?

My 1994 is running kinda rough. Jerky acceleration, slows on even mild hills, etc. Strangely when the weather gets down around 0 degrees F it seems to run noticeably better. (The heater is pretty inadequate then, though!). Any ideas on what might cause this?

Here's what I have. It actually was made by the owner before the one I bought it from. It works pretty well and stays in place great since it is tight between the seats. Here is a side view.

I repainted my front bumper with Rustoleum hammered black. Better than the paint peeling and rust spots look. I forgot to take a before picture. I actually did it yesterday with some nice hot, calm weather. A rare afternoon without much wind can't be wasted!

Ok, thanks. I will try to find the plug to the light and get that hooked up.