maaakaaa

I got my Moog JCG springs on. Using the calculations in some other thread, it looks like I have about 1.5 inches lift over new stock, probably more over 20 year old springs (I didn't measure beforehand). I cut the pigtails off with an angle grinder, which cut the spring really easily.

I just ordered mine! Did you reuse the spring isolators?

If you go to a Nissan parts website, they will have the part number. I just had to do this repair on both of my front doors. I hadn't seen this write-up, but the pictures would have been quite helpful. One of the other forum member has a youtube video in which he describes the whole door lock mechanism and all the connectors which helped me a lot.

After your other post I went browsing for picture of the new one. Looks good. Did it come with the bonus cleaning supplies?

Awesome. I think that's my plan then. It seems like a lot of the junkyards around here want as much for old springs as the new Moogs cost.

Cool! I'm very seriously thinking about ordering a set next payday. Softer in what way? More comfortable ride, or do you also get more body lean on corners?

I was just about to post to see if anyone had used the Moog JGC coils, then I found this. So you got 3 inches of lift from the springs? How do you like them after a few months of use? Have they settled any, or still about the same height? Thanks!

What do you think of the Ranchos after a few months? I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the extra for Bilsteins or not.

I recently emailed Rough Country regarding just buying UCAs. They were going to charge about $300 for the UCAs. Superlift's are $200 on Summit Racing.

Once you have it all patched up, maybe paint the frame with POR-15. Actually, it might be a good idea to paint what you can inside of the frame before patching it. The body looks great, though. Is it lifted, or is my suspension sagging that badly?

pathycline92, I'm not the original owner and I had no problems.

I'm pretty limited past Sat/Sun trips, but an overnight could be fun and make it worth driving a little farther to the trail. Hopefully I will be able to get my front suspension/steering work done before too long.

Following. Neither work for me, either.

I made good use of those VG30e pictures yesterday. It seems to be running significantly smoother.

I emailed RC country a couple of weeks ago to ask about buying the UCAs separately and they quoted me at I think $295 which seemed crazy high since the full Hardbody lift is $340.

Jealous! That thing looks great Should be a fun area to explore with it.

Hopefully me too. My shocks are horribly worn out.

I see a trail ride in order for summer. Mine has over 270k and I don't think particularly careful maintenance so you'll probably make it just fine.

Welcome! Good looking rig. I'm in Longmont. Your truck should last a long time with such low miles and your preventative maintenance.

It certainly took me a bit of time and frustration to figure it out when I replaced mine.

A clearer title should help you get the right people reading your post. Also, you're probably already doing it, but keep checking craigslist. A few more qualifications will help narrow it down: auto/manual, how many miles on it, do you care how it looks, what is cheap to you?

I had Mastercraft Courser AXT tires on my last truck and liked them a lot. Mastercraft is owned by Cooper and it is a similar tread to the AT3, but a bit edgier and in my opinion better looking. Here's my write-up on them: http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=65509 One of our work trucks has the Kelly Safari TSR that was mentioned and I've been happy with them, though they pick up a fair amount of gravel.

Hey man, did you solve the brake light? A month or so back both my brake light and ABS light were on. Apparently it was low fluid because topping it off shut them off. And it was only down near the low level line. Sorry to hear about your truck broken into. I had a Honda Passport before the Pathfinder and it was broken into in my apartment lot in Longmont a couple summers back in broad daylight. It sucks. Anyway...yesterday I replaced my sway bar links and sway bar bushings. The bushings for the bar itself seemed fine, but the end link bushings were pretty bad. Its nice to be able to feel a noticeable difference in driving after doing some work! Then I got a buddy to knock loose the strut bar bolts with his impact wrench so I can get those bushings done after the snow goes away. And a few days ago I replaced the rear window--the old one had a crappy bubbling tint job and some old sticker residue. Do any of you have advice for removing the manual transmission drain plug? Mine is very tight and it looks like someone in the past started to round it out a little so I want to be careful not to destroy it and have it stuck forever.

I have the same code and am needing to dig into the injectors.

I'm having a moment of excitement, which hopefully is not misplaced. When I had my brakes done at Firestone a few months ago, they said my lower control arm bushings need replaced. Maaaaybe they were looking at these since they are obvious and connect to the LCA. Much less of a bother. Maybe I will just order the bushings are see how the rods are when I pull it apart.