pepperjack26

My CEL also intermittently comes on - almost seems like a fuel issue for me. Usually comes on under 1/2 or near 1/4 tank. Using a fuel additive when often keeps it away, but I changed from Conoco to Chevron and found my CEL doesn't come on (as much). I have gone back to Conoco (closer to home - and other services) and my CEL has not come back on - winter now. getting some king of OBD2 for x-mas so I may be able to get my actual codes - instead of hoping to get the timing right at my local Autozone. They have recommended replacing my O2 sensors - when the light is actually on. have had the 158 code a number of times.

Looks great! Like the end result? How do your Rancho compare to the stock? Mine is similar - OME HD/Kyb front, OMD MD/OME rear. I did add Fleurys 1.5 front and rear for just about the max without SFD. -4 offset 16x8 wheels, not a fan of wheel spacers.

I finally got her out on the highway for a decent drive. My commute is 10 miles highway/city. Got to drive her out on the highway about 120 miles (round trip) to pick up a Fedex package at a "local" center. The drive was nice, been a while since I've been able to put cruise on and listen to more than 2 songs.

I do not have the equipment (or facility) to work on struts. My mechanic installed my springs/struts. I asked him in advance before having the work done and he suggested replacing the struts at the same time if they were originals (they were on 110k miles). As it turned out, both the struts were done - one leaking badly and the other was easy to move by hand - nearly no dampening left at all. If you are doing the work yourself, your springs will not require an ABS bracket. If you install struts, it may be necessary - but you can likely use the material already in place. OME makes struts as well - it could be something required for an install using their struts.

I did a search for this part "SMP638" and was unable to actually get a picture of what it was. I also have a 2000 SE Pathfinder. Springs are OME (front and rear) and I did not purchase the fitting kit. I got mine from Rocky-road, HD fronts and rears (only one option offered). I did get the "trim packer" which lifts the front about an inch. Just can't find what the fitting kit is actually. Had my front springs installed in a shop - with new KYBs, Didn't think there were any special parts needed for fitting.

Looks good sitting still. But yeah, spacers are a must. Imagine full new tread at highway speeds. If you have to grind for clearance sitting still, it is likely not enough.

My pathfinder had this problem when it was garaged. First picture of decon bed... not sure, but they liked it so much. Anyhow, a mechanic suggested Vanillaroma (little trees) in the engine bay. I've used them ever since and no mouse problems at all. My parents live on the coast with garaged vehicles, and had this problem - until this solution. I replace them every 5-6 months, or as I remember. (it is about time again) I like the smell, so I use 2 trees - one on each side. My hood "insulation" did suffer. You may spot the 2nd tree on the left - hanging from the throttle line (cruise). Tip: do not place near exhaust... Bonus: your car smells nice when you arrive somewhere. Sadly, it is not mix/match. I believe it is specifically the vanilla scent that drives them away.

I have LED headlights installed - in my factory housings. Purchased the Blackened housings online (ebay I think) that you can also find on carid.com, and they came with 8000k HIDS. I ran those for a short time but the output was so unfocused I had to upgrade. I am also one of those people that feel bad being an a$$ to other drivers using my "awesome" HIDs in my reflector housings. So... Along came the LED: Genssi brand I think (amazon) and they fit great. Output is slightly better than my factory fog lights - which I run an H3 HID 2700k conversion. So, not good at all for driving at night. The LEDs I purchased have 2 Diodes, one on top and one on the bottom - offset the top is Low beam, and the bottom is the high (low beam reflects down, high beam reflects up-ish). I want to get better ones - PIAA or OPT-7 but the PIAA are $250+. If you do get LED, make sure they have low beam output on both sides. Read reviews from others - and compare many products. Don't get Genssi - great cosmetically, not functionally. Better option: Projector lenses. Sadly - not available mainstream for us.

Johann, What do you have in your headliner? Led response lights? Also, which LED bar do you have in your lower bumper?

He dips it - and it is awesome!

Had this on my wife's rig - gm envoy. Ended up with a new rack/pinion - as one of the seals was just done. Not sure the amount of work on our rigs, but likely need a new unit. She was leaking about a quart per week - or 2 trips to town - which ever came first. Have a mechanic take a look? or head down to a tire/alignment shop for their suggestion.

In regards to the OP, I'd like to see how the wiring is done for those that have installed lights up on a basket/rack.

Noise from my front left took me to my mechanic. I thought it was strut related. Cv was dry, boot was fine, no grease. He injected some, but highly urges me to replace it. "Once it is making noise, it is bad". I don't want to have it done, but may have no choice with winter coming. Perhaps your issue is similar. I am on original 2000 CVs (as far as I know). I never have trouble taking it to the shop for a mechanics opinion - just seems wise - rather or not I actually follow his advise.

I am new to forum posting and also to spacers/lifts. After reading forums and weighing costs, I purchased a 1.5" set of spacers for the front and rear. I installed the rear set myself - as I try to do what I can on my own. The front was not going to be my handywork as I do not have those tools, and mine is my daily driver. I needed ball joints and strut bearings, so my mechanic put in the strut spacers for me at no charge - including the camber bolts and an allignment. I have been his customer for 14 years and 4 vehicles - but if you are having something done already (like struts) the charge should not be high. Spacers: I like them. Have not put them to the test, but my mechanic said they look solid, and would not have installed them if he didn't think they were safe. Ride quality = same as without. Lift as described on Fleurys site. Very happy with mine.

I am not the best to explain a locker, but basically a locker actuates and causes the rear (or front) diff to become like a solid shaft and turn both wheels at the same rate. Fantastic if one of your tires is up in the air, or down in a hole... Air = actuated by an air compressor. LSD: limited slip differential - I have one on another rig, but cannot explain how it works. Open = differential powers which ever wheel has the least resistance (aka my current setup).

Just rolled over 127k (k as in thousand, not Kilometers) on my way to work. Add a few more as I am now at home.

I used the VHT on the headlights and tail lights of my older ride (Isuzu) and it turned out very nice. 3 very light layers (maybe 4) and some clear to buff. It did wear off the headlights nearly completely - but I believe it is because they were glass. The plastic lenses (oval indicators, front and side markers, and tail lights) have all kept their coating over the last 4 years. I did a quick spray and clear job - didn't even sand it at the time and it has weathered well. Doing it right would make it even better! If I do any tinting on the Pathfinder, it will be the film style. Seems more consistent than me painting and smoother - especially if heat shrunk properly.

Sounds like a pretty good list. Is that another Nissan parked behind? With the upgrades I would ask what you have in your rear diff - open or lsd, maybe go for a locker with the compressor. Custom bumpers/ARB/TJM and a winch - if you think it might be needed.

Not a cheap option if you have a mechanic do it - but mine was ball joints. Over a period of a couple months it came and went, mostly a little vibration around 45mph, pulled a little around 55, and my tires were taking a bit of unnecessary outside edge wear. Also had an odd humming - like mud tires - but I have ATs. Replaced ball joints and the vibration is gone. Tire noise is still there - not as loud. You could take it in and get an opinion from a mechanic - that is usually my first step.