Jump to content

Terranovation

Members
  • Posts

    903
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Posts posted by Terranovation

  1. You missed the tapping-the-hole step, but yes...

    I'd probably drill and tap into the existing hole (so grease doesn't come out of it) but I'd need to verify that there is sufficient clearance to close it properly. The hardest part of the job would be to remove the carrier so you could drill and tap the sleeves. Might as well replace the bushings if they have any play in them while you are there...

     

    B

    Why would you have to take the carrier off? Can't you just tap screw the holes with the carrier on there?

  2. You shouldn't have a problem with doing that, you wash that area when you do a regular wash on the outside with the flap closed although it might have been a better idea to be careful and clean inside that area with a quick spray of degreaser and wipe clean with paper towel, just to avoid any possible water entry. Anyway if you did get water in the fuel system you have a warning light for that to let you know to drain the fuel pump? I do on my '91.

  3. I'd use a big flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, just go around the edge slowly and don't hit too hard, once you get one edge loose, you should be able to get a couple of fingers in the edge to pry it loose but I advise having an old pillow or something soft for it to land on, just in case it does fall.

  4. If you have the altimeter you could always unscrew that and utilise the plastic pod to put gauges in there if they fit. I modified mine, I took out the altimeter and now I have my gps mounted in there. Had to cut a slit in the top of the pod so it, ahem, just slides in there and I can remove it so thieves don't know what was in there to steal. I do eventually want to put a temp guage in there, I've been looking at some cool led gauges.

  5. She's alive again! I bought a new battery and I had the bonnet up, worklight on and everything because I needed to have it fixed for the morning and it was dark. Neighbour sees me outside with the work light and he comes over for a look. He says check the cells so I did and the battery is almost totally dry. So he says boil the kettle and then fill up the cells, so I did. He went and got his jumper leads and we hooked up my battery to my wife's car, the Terrano starts so my spirits lifted thinking everything was ok. Neighbour says run the car for 45 mins to get the charge going in the battery and then turn it off, wait 10 mins and then try starting it again. So I put the new battery in the back and my tool box, went for a drive down to the service station. Lights were very dim and she just about died while I was driving. Pulled into the servo with hardly any lights at all. Tried starting again and yep, the battery was totally snaffooed. So I put the new battery in and tightened everything up, starts first go and lights are bright. Turned it off and tried again, vrooom, so it was definitely a dead battery, with fried cells. My lesson learned here is check the cells distilled water level at least every 6 months, especially during summer, because I never checked the battery for 2 years. It's just something I took for granted and I paid the $199 price.

    Thank you to all for your advice and helping out!

  6. Hi guys, I went to start up this morning, it was very cold and the engine tried cranking over but I got a ticktickticktick noise. I tried starting like 5 times with the same thing. I'm suspecting the battery is dead and I'm hoping it's not the starter or alternator. Lights still work inside, dash lights etc but I've been told yes they will still work but the engine needs more power from the battery to start up. Because I'm at work I can't diagnose the battery but it's been at least two years since I bought the last one. Il start off by getting a new battery and see if it works.

  7. One thing I did notice about the old used oil was when I had the drain pan standing up draining into the oil container. Majority of the oil had already drained into the container and the drain pan had a coating of black oil still clinging to it, even after 2 hours. So I thought to myself that's what the inside of the engine must be like too, even after a whole night draining. There might be no drips coming out, but the stuff is still stuck in there somewhere.

    Next time I will definitely try filling up with cheap oil then change that and fill it up again which should get rid of most of the black stuff.

  8. Here's some more investigating I did, I used an engine flush on my wife's Nissan Navara, poured the stuff in, idled it for 15 mins like the can said, drained the old oil overnight, the oil was very black. Installed new filter and put fresh oil in, checked the dipstick and it's already got black oil on it. So even after using this 300ml can of engine flush, it didn't get everything sparkling clean inside. Much to my surprise because this engine flush wad meant to be the best one you can get.

    The name of it is Liqui-Moly. On the can it says 'Removes oil sludge' Hmm that's interesting. Apparently it is a blend of Molybdenum Disulfide, which to me is a fancy way of saying kerosene.

    On the can it also says 300ml is sufficient for 5 litres of oil. Well in this case it obviously wasn't effective enough. I don't think even three cans would remove everything. I was expecting sparkling clean dipstick. I think kerosene or ATF would have been more effective. So next time I am going to drain the old oil and run a 30% oil, 70% ATF mix and Il report back with the findings.

  9. MY issue with the engine flush, is in the cylinder. Over time, we will develope scoring in the cylinder walls. These will be filled with "sludge". When you clean this out, you start blow by. Now, you take an older vehicle with 150k, there will be ALOT of scoring, thus resulting in ALOT of blow by!! I am more inclined to remove my oil pan, clean the sludge out, then do a quick oil change. I usually only go 500 miles then change oil again.

    No, sludge doesn't form in the cylinder, it's carbon deposits. Engine flushes don't remove carbon deposits you have to see a specialist for that type of carbon removal but a lot of people don't think it's a good idea because the carbon buildup keeps the cylinders sealed preventing blow by.

  10. I think it's safe enough to utilise atf as an engine flush, it has enough lubricating and cleaning qualities in it to give the insides of the engine a good dousing. After all it is inside auto trans so it can't do any possible damage to the inside of an engine. I've used atf to cleanse bolts and I soak them in the atf for half an hour and they come out nice and clean. I have seen the brown rusty residue left behind in my little cleaning container that I use so I'd imagine an engine with atf added, running for 10 - 15 mins is going to have atf splashing around inside, giving the inside walls a good clean, plus the engine doesn't really loose any lubrication inside. The only thing I'd be a little bit worried about would be a really clogged up motor with oil chunks in it. Like someone else said, that goop can clog up oil galleries if it's dislodged from engine flushing, but hopefully the stuff comes out the drain plug anyway. The only way to be certain would be to remove the sump and manually clean it properly with degreaser on the inside and also take the rocker cover off and inspect it from the top.

×
×
  • Create New...