Terranovation
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Posts posted by Terranovation
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Bottom aircon belt was hanging on by a few pieces of wire also discovered the radiator fan shroud wasn't even bolted down! It was just sitting in there, attached to nothing. So had to remove all the belts (first time I've attempted this) managed to get new belt on down there after much aarrghing and yelling but I got it all done. Found four screws to attach the fan shroud on properly. Turned the key, nothing. Second attempt, still nothing. Third attempt, Roooaaaarhhhhh hooray it's Alive hahaha it's Alive!!!
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Another trick to try if you suspect crud blocking the nozzles or blocked hoses is get a glass of water, fill your mouth up then blow the water through the line from the pump end. Water should be coming out the other end of the hoses and it might dislodge anything causing the blockage. Also handy for checking blocked nozzles.
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When you've been trying to spray the water the water goes through the hoses to the washer nozzles. My bet is there's crud in the lines and inside the nozzles. Clean them out with mum's sewing needle or try scrubbing with an old toothbrush.
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Or take the rubber hose off at the motor pump end and blow through the pipe with your mouth. There might be some crud in either the hose or the washer nozzles might be a bit blocked. Take them out and wash em. Removal is open the bonnet and using a small screw driver pry the plastic tabs inwards while pushing em up and out.
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I checked this morning after driving to work and the hose connection is dry which is a good sign and no leaks, level is ok but I'll definitely flush the trans cooler to get all the old fluid out on the next service. Thanks for all your help Silverton!
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What is PO?
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Update - I took the engine protect metal cover off underneath the front and found a loose transmission hose so I tightened it up. Must have been loosing vacuum pressure, hence the flashing sequence. I degreased everything too so I can check later for any leaks.
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Don't attempt it, you'll end up tearing the foam seal. I tried pulling mine apart and the seal started tearing a little so I quickly put the clips back on before I destroyed anything else lol
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I had a look at the back inside panels of my Pathy today and I forsee a problem with fitting. The back panels curve inwards so you'd have to bend the curtain rods slightly so they clip into the rod holders because when you screw the curtain rod holders on the back panels, they're gonna be on an angle as they follow the curvature. The panels directly behind the seats, no problem because they are straight. Also you would have to trim the velour so it goes around the curves of the rear speakers.
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The only other thing I cam think of, if it's not engaging D until after 20 seconds and you keep having to select '2' to start driving, then the bands inside possibly need adjusting, the gears aren't meshing properly and I empathise the word Possibly. I don't wish these type of repairs on any Pathy owner. It can cost anything from $1,000 up to $2,500 for a total trans rebuild.
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Thanks guys, I went for a nice long drive today and everything is normal. It's shifting nicely as usual. I think the problem is that I'm not getting all the old fluid out via just the drain plug, I need to flush out whatever is left in the torque converter too.
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My idea for a cover -
4 curtain rod hangers
2 curtain rods
Cover material
Strong glue
This would be a good project. My plan for one is buy four curtain rod holders, they are shaped like a U. Usually when you buy them from hardware store they are white but just spray them to match vehicle interior. Measure everything up so you have the right width and height. Screw rod holders in. Then you need two metal curtain rods. Just cut to length with hacksaw. For the cover material I'd choose something that will last a long time and look nice, something like black or grey velour. Colour code it to match the interior, whatever your choice may be.
To fit the cover, get some really strong glue and slap it on one end of the material and wrap it tight around one of the curtain rods. Do the same to the other end and wait 24 hours for it to dry.
Clip the rods into the holders and there you have it. Your own cover that saved a heap of cash.
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My idea for a cover -
4 curtain rod hangers
2 curtain rods
Cover material
Strong glue
This would be a good project. My plan for one is buy four curtain rod holders, they are shaped like a U. Usually when you buy them from hardware store they are white but just spray them to match vehicle interior. Measure everything up so you have the right width and height. Screw rod holders in. Then you need two metal curtain rods. Just cut to length with hacksaw. For the cover material I'd choose something that will last a long time and look nice, something like black or grey velour. Colour code it to match the interior, whatever your choice may be.
To fit the cover, get some really strong glue and slap it on one end of the material and wrap it tight around one of the curtain rods. Do the same to the other end and wait 24 hours for it to dry.
Clip the rods into the holders and there you have it. Your own cover that saved a heap of cash.
When dry, pl
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It would be fairly simple, just get a drilling bit specifically for drilling metal, buy a couple of grease nipples. Drill the holes out a bit larger then screw the fittings in then grease those babies. It would last the lifetime of the vehicle opening and closing. You'd probably have to open and close it a million times before the grease wears out.
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My Terrano 1991 turbo diesel with auto has this trans switch on the lower left side of the dash display that has power mode/a/t/hold on it. I understand how this switch works. My question is, sometimes when I start up first thing in the morning, it flashes green on the power side, then flashes about 12 or 13 times on the 'hold' side. It happens every now and then, what does this flashing sequence mean? The transmission has clean fluid in it and the engine is regularly oil changed by myself.
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Hi there all the way from Western Australia
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Cleaning the throttle body may help. Carby clean is needed.
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Yeah well if it's smelling like swamp water or burnt leaves, expect there's crud built up in there. Remember to wear gloves in case of hidden nasties like bees, spiders or even furry rodents! Vacuuming is the best option imo.
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If it's got an overdrive button on the selector lever, make sure it's not pressed in when you drive off. It will be slow as a stuck pig. Only activate overdrive when you get up past 30 mph
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Location - driver side foot well. Refer to here -
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36071-where-does-this-connecter-go/?hl=chime
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That looks reasonable for being original part used for 259k miles. It's maybe got another 2 to 3 years to go before it's completely stuffed imo having worked in the exhaust industry.
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My simple yet effective tip is when removing the oil drain plug and you don't have any gloves handy so you don't get oil on your hands, undo the plug with your ratchet till it's loose, them remove the ratchet and unscrew the plug the rest of the way while holding onto the metal bar with socket still on. As you remove the plug pull the socket down and hopefully the plug will remain in the socket for you to drop into a clean paper towel and your hand and arm should be oil free. Some may not agree with this procedure but it works for me.
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Clogged cats cannot be washed out with dish soap and water - I used to fit exhaust systems back in the day and we would oxy cut open dead catalytic converters and inside them is a honey comb material which the exhaust gases have to pass through. Nothing you can do once it's clogged - you replace it.
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I noticed you mentioned the battery was put on charge. Usually after a charge, batteries have a tendency to not last for much longer. How old is the battery? The average life of most batteries is 3-4 years and that's it. I'd start by replacing the battery instead of wasting money going and getting professional cleaning etc. It might just be the battery that is responsible for the unusual power loss re low rpms
UCA lubrication
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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The only grease zerk I found on mine is at the idler arm. It appears the universal joints still have the original grease screws still installed. I hope these a just a matter of unscrew and screw in grease fittings.