jgrote

I did find that Dorman makes a few fans also, but have not been able to verify which is the correct one. Their website doesn't say they have one, but Amazon does. There seems to be a lot of confusion out there about what fits the 3.3, 3.5, and 4.0. Many of the reviews said that the "right" fan did not actually fit. $650 seems like a pretty good deal. However, I'll DIY mine. It'll make it easier to freshen up anything else that needs doing. I know the VC gaskets are leaking. Might as well take care of that while I'm in there.

Well, I've had my new ride long enough to start getting to know her, and now I have a few questions. 1) What's the best way to change the rear main seal? Engine pull or tranny pull? I knew it was "seeping" (according to the seller) when I bought it, but it's a little more than a seep. I don't have a lift, so I'm leaning toward pulling the engine. That will also allow me to do the VC gaskets easier, as well as whatever else I run into. 2) Is this bad? (See pic.) Where is the best place to buy a replacement fan? Other than that and a little rust, she seems to be pretty solid. So far I'm very happy with this truck. I'm looking forward to getting out and into the mountains this summer.

Where in FL are you? I'll be in FL next week, and can stop by the JY this weekend. They've got 2 '01's and and 1 '04 there. What is your budget?

Nice work. Got any pics of your install? Mine has steps on it now, but I would really, really like these instead.

Look to see if you can cannibalize a mounting kit from both your car and one from a mid 90's Chevy s-10. Because delco radios were so shallow, the install kits for aftermarket radios pushed the radio out about 3/4"

Something else to think about is silicone hoses meant for ricer intercoolers. What diameter would you need to connect to the TB? Could/would you cannibalize the stock intake?

There are more than a few ways to do this. I would personally start at the fuse. First make sure the fuse doesn't control anything other than the windows. Next, use a meter to find out which side of the fuse holder has power all the time and which is going to windows. Last, pull the fuse block and cut the wire going to the inlet side of the fuse. Cap off the wire going to the fuse holder. Connect a 12v constant wire to the wire coming from the fuse holder. It seems like a lot of work just to make it so you don't need to grab your keys to put down the windows though.

Consistent compression #'s are a good start. A bad WP would be a much better option, and there seems to be some evidence it can cause the problem you have. I say replace the intake gaskets anyway and replace the WP. For as bad as yours is leaking, you should know right away if the WP is bad (once you get it off).

So wait, the rear ABS is controlled by a sensor on the driveshaft and not sensors at each wheel? What's the point in that? I think I'd just ditch ABS.

If you haven't started it up yet, you may get away with replacing the HG's and flushing out the motor. First thing I would do is drain it out and get some engine flush in it, just to get the coolant off the bearings if nothing else. Are you planning on trying to save it or just replace it?

You're on the right track though. If tightening them worked for a while, then your issue is most likely in the same spot as last time. Pull it out again, but this time remove, clean, sand, or just rub the mating points of the screw. Do one at a time.