level9

It's all about perspective - I've considered paying for someone to custom cut a sunroof into my XE. It can be somewhat dark in the interior otherwise IMO and I like bright (but no glare). On my '04 BMW E46 which had a sunroof what I did to deal with the heat is unbolt it (4 screws), took it to the tint shop (cheaper this way) and had them apply ceramic tint, then reinstalled it. Barely any heat gets in to deteriorate things. That was 10+ years ago, no issues, and the car sits outside 24x7. I keep the Pathy safe in the garage

JB Weld it back ? I have JB Welded parts of the suspension where the tension rod bushing cup tends to rot out - and it's fine. 2-part epoxy... strong stuff

https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/ Not the cheapest thing, but I intended to never have to deal with it again Silicone is fine for vacuum lines and coolant lines (reinforced in the latter case for the pressures) but also worth noting can be more difficult to seal at the ends (hence I use coolant-exposure-rated RTV for added insurance). It's true different kinds of rubber - of which at this point there's so many I've lost track - are good for different kinds of things and will fail if mis-applied. Here's my cheat sheet: For fuel hoses, I replaced everything with Gates Barricade except for the submerged hose in the tank/pump which was some super special snowflake stuff (fuel submersible rated) - and wildly expensive. Crankcase ventilation/PCV - Gates PCV/EEC Vacuum/Coolant - (reinforced) silicone as noted

The coolant runs through the rear of the intake in order to let the idle air control valve know when the car is at operating temperature so it can disable cold start/fast idle. Note this car has two IACVs. There is the normal one on the bottom of the intake (ECU controlled) and then the one the coolant runs through at the top (mechanical only) which is only for cold start/fast idle. In theory, you could disable/bypass this but you may be stuck in permanent fast-idle mode (~1200 rpm). EDIT - I think the unit may also have a backup/internal heating element (hence the connector), so maybe not permanent fast idle if coolant lines disabled - but longer than normal. The coolant lines then run through the throttle body. Best I've ever been able to determine the purpose of this - it's to prevent the throttle plate from sticking in cold climates because - in theory - it may be possible for some ice accumulation on the plate (safety issue). I had bypassed this when I lived in warm-climate TX but put it back when I moved to CO. I replaced all of those coolant lines with high temp reinforced silicone coolant hoses from HPS (and sealed with RTV at the barbs). Never had an issue since...

I've never seen anything like that on my '90 (Federal model). Almost looks like a brake fitting. The only thing connected to my throttle body are in/out coolant lines, the EGR control vacuum line and the vacuum line for the carbon cannister. 'below the throttle body' is only the rubber CCV line connecting to the valve cover. What's the other end normally connected to or at least more specifically where does it connect?

If you're looking for new - try amayama.com (direct from Japan). A longer wait but parts are usually half the price or less, at least compared to here in the States. If amayama doesn't have it, try nengun.com. And to get the P/Ns if you don't have them, megazip.net. If used - Terrano I / R3m parts are still around and should be the same for this. I'll guess a Hardbody (D21 / Big-M) is likely also the same. Parts are still out there... you just have to find them... somewhere in the world

Finally getting around to dealing with this myself. With a Four Seasons 58440 compressor - I cut off the connector and then also cut off the OEM connector as it's now useless since nobody? makes the right connector for this anymore. I wired on new waterproof automotive grade connectors I bought off amazon. Pulled vacuum, charged it up and everything is working fine. Since the system was already empty and I had already done the e-fan conversion (Flex-A-Lite 410 w/ the variable speed controller) I also took the opportunity to replace the binary switch (compressor pressure high/low cutoff) that threads into the receiver/dryer with a trinary switch (Vintage Air 11086-VUS) and then hooked that up to the A/C signal on the e-fan. The specs for high/low cutoff on the Vintage Air were within range for the OEM specs and it threaded right in. This means my e-fan only turns on at a certain pressure instead of always-on with A/C and saves some more MPG. Very easy to wire in and a worthwhile upgrade if you have an e-fan.

I run a 180F thermostat to help with the heater here in Colorado. I've noted that it raises the operating temperature as my radiator inlet temps are around 205F. Per the Nissan TSB, this should be OK. Putting in anything higher would definitely not be recommended. I believe the ECU starts going into protection mode (retard timing, etc.) around ~212F, more aggressively at 220F and failing back to open-loop around 230F. 190+ thermostats should be reserved for only the coldest of the cold climates like northern Alaska, Siberia, etc.

Monstaliner - Lady in Red. 20250607_145706.jpg

Having completely disassembled my Pathfinder, hand restoring each part and reassembling it - out of everything - this is not a job I would do again. I'd pay just about any amount of money to have someone else do it. I ran into several issues. For one, there are different drive shafts noted in the FSM and the drive shaft was not marked as to which it was which is why the aftermarket parts catalogs listed different sizes. If you go the aftermarket route, I suggest buying all of the recommended sizes, see which one fits and return the rest (use someone you can do easy returns with eg. Amazon). Next problem was removing the u-joints. The ears on the shaft are not square - they are tapered. I had a hell of a time getting it level on a press, having to purchase various sized square steel bars which I bent into various shapes in order to shim to shaft level and (sort of) stable. The amount of force required to get those u-joints to break free was also something insane, like 10+ tons. When I finally managed to break them free, the noise was so loud it sent the wife flying into the garage to confirm I was still alive. This is not for lack of many days soaking in penetrant oil and even taking a torch to it repeatedly. The next issue was the center carrier bearing - it was completely shredded and in need of replacement. The bolt holding the flange on the opposite side of the bearing to the front drive shaft was also stuck on there. I own 3 impact wrenches, including the highest breakaway torque in electric and the highest available for an air compressor. None of those would break the bolt loose. I ended up having to purchase a special tool (pinion yoke wrench), bolted it to the drive shaft, attached a large breaker bar to that, had the wife stand on it while I got another large breaker bar on the bolt itself. I also put my left foot on the pinion bar with the wife, so she wouldn't go flying, then we locked arms and I pushed as hard as I possibly could with my right foot on the breaker bar. That broke it loose. If you decide to try and DIY this, just be prepared for having to take it in to someone else for help. Also get the FSM and absolutely follow the related procedures (grease, torque specs, marking drive shaft position BEFORE removal, etc.) And you should likely also replace the carrier bearing and the related center bolt and washer. Good luck...

I can confirm KivPanther's ashtray insert works. I went this route so I could easily see real-time diagnostics while driving. There is another option for a plug-in box that's available on ebay (search Nissan ODB1 Diagnostic Checker - Error Code Reader for Nissan ECCS).

11826-88G00 at least according to the diagrams; however the pictures don't match but that wouldn't be the first time I've seen a mismatch with the pictures. Out of stock everywhere including overseas. The problem is that it's molded. I had a hell of a time finding matching molded pieces for other parts of the crankcase ventilation system when I did a refresh - eventually ordering multiple things through amazon from different cars and returning what didn't match. However for the molded PCV connection specifically, I simply ended up entirely bypassing the connection to the metal tube that runs under the intake to the hose that connects to the pass side valve cover. I just ran a long pcv/eec hose directly from the pcv to the valve cover - tucked the hose behind the intake; however I have a 3" body lift which probably made that easier. Unfortunately I can't recall if it was 1/2" or 5/8" but you should be able to come up with something if you can't find the molded piece. You could possibly just cut some short lengths of hose and use a couple of 90 degree nylon hose barbs to make the turns.

I ran into a reception issue on my manual antenna. First, some context. Many years ago my manual antenna was damaged. I bought an aftermarket one which I noted at the time was missing the metal tube that extended down into the fender. Nonetheless it mounted up just fine, was stable enough and I didn't notice any kind of reception issues so I let it be. However. I lived mostly in the big cities. Now that I'm relocating to the mountains I noticed that all of my other cars seemed to have better reception, even with their tiny, hidden away antennas. I noted the antenna I had on the Pathfinder was the proper 1/4 FM wavelength (OEM standard size) and, obviously, much bigger and more exposed to pick up clean signals than these other cars. So, something must be wrong. Specifically, I noted signal reception in the lower band of FM was the weakest. This simply didn't make any sense to me because the antenna is already the proper division of length based on everything I know about antennas and reception. I went ahead and explained the situation while noting the difference in antennas to our new AI overlords (ChatGPT) and asked what could possibly be going on. It spit back a bunch of goblygook about capacitive couplings between the antenna and the sheet metal in the fender and so forth which frankly sounded pretty insane to me especially considering extending the antenna into the fender seemed to violate the rules around aligning wavelengths. In any case it noted missing the tube extension would impair reception of the lower band of FM - which happened to be my issue. So I went ahead and ordered a new OEM manual antenna (w/ tube extension). Installed it, and, sure enough, that solved the problem. Reception was boosted across the board but dramatically at the lower bands of FM. So if anyone else is having the issue, there's your fix - make sure you have the fender extension. I don't think this applies to auto antennas as (from parts catalog diagrams) it seems to already be fairly extended down into the fender.

Maybe. There is a lot of potential vibration going on around these parts/connectors, so depends on what you mean. I personally use solder seal heat shrink butt connectors; although I do own a heat gun. These connectors release solder and seal the wires at the same time upon the application of heat and so it's definitely never coming apart.

The only thing I could think of that would exactly match those conditions (fine at WOT and idle) would be the EGR which operates in the area between WOT and idle. You can easily rule this out by unplugging the solenoid connector that controls the vacuum which should disable the EGR. It's a little black thing with 3 vacuum lines attached located below the throttle body. For the O2, I also think you can just unplug it and see if the behavior goes away in order to rule that one out. This is located on the pass side fender where a bunch of connectors are attached. Locate the one that has wiring that goes to the back side of the engine/across the transmission.