xterra

I've always been a fan of the silver + black two-tone - there aren't many of those around, so that would set yours apart. Just please promise us you won't do anything like this:

+1 on the professional installation. I bought a new seal for the same reason - original one was perished. I tried doing it myself, and it was an utter failure. I ended up finding a replacement sunroof at the JY with a good seal for ~$20, which was half the cost of the seal alone. So another option you might want to consider.

Replaced the corner lights and front grille (which was faded and starting to crack) with chrome ones from RockAuto. They look great, but now the bumper looks horrible. I gonna hold off on replacing that, though, until I find a first gen brush guard (the kind that attaches to the fron of the bumper using the bumper bolts) or find a 93-95 chromed bumper in decent shape at a JY.

There are a few Heeps around here that have bike carriers mounted to their spares. The two styles I've seen either mount around the tire or have a hub connector and removable pipe (pics below for inspiration).

I used Plasti-Kote brand that I picked it up from Amazon. Added it to another order to get free shipping. It did take quite a while to cure, though - at least 4 hours (not the 1 hour that it said on the bottle). I waited overnight before applying the bed liner just to be safe

Finally decided to tackle the only rust on my truck - the battery tray and the area right around it. Tried one of the rust converter products, and it seems to have worked as advertised. All the places it was bubbling and scaling are now solid again.. Top coated it with bedliner and just waiting for it to dry.

Dropped the AC blower motor because I couldn't take the "whirring" noise anymore. It still amazes me how much noise a pine needle can make...

Good to hear - I'm looking forward to the write-up & pics. For me, I don't want to permanently change the harness - I guess it's just the purist in me. or (take your pick) Just like I used an adapter harness when I replaced the factory head unit, I want to create an adapter harness for the cluster so it can (easily) be put back to stock at some later date. (In fact, I haven't done anything to my truck that can't be reversed, with the exception of cutting holes in the dash pad for the inclinometer.)

I've been considering this for a while, but it's not quite that simple. The connections are not the same for the 93, and some key indicators moved from the lower bezel to the main cluster, and vice-versa. There are also a couple extra indicators on the 93 (Check Engine and ABS) that don't exist (at least on mine). I've been mapping the different wires between my 90 and the 93. The hardest part is trying to create an interface harness so that I don't have to cut into the factory harness. For what it's worth, 89-92 all appear to be interchangeable - but the 93 is unique.

Cruise problem could also be caused by the rubber/silicone bumper on the brake pedal arm crumbling. It acts as a cancel for the cruise when the brake is depressed. If you've seen some unusual blue or green rubber bits on the floor, take a look in there.

Replaced the LH power window/lock switch. Old one stopped unlocking doors and the RH power window lockout was always enabled. Quickest update that I've done on my truck.

Clarion is Nissan's primary head unit manufacturer and has been for years - so no big surprise there. The Bose refers to the amps and speakers, assuming those haven't been upgraded. As for part numbers, you might also want to take a look into part number 999u9-nv003 and 999u9-as003 for the Sirius module.

+1 on the Rogue, if you want to stay in the Nissan family. A friend had one, and they're surprisingly roomy with plenty of pep out of the 2.5L i4 (QR25DE) engine, which uses a timing chain.

I can confirm that an WD22 Xterra sunroof is a direct physical fit to the WD21 Pathfinder sunroof opening. The X sunroof didn't have the latch anymore, but that was two screws and 5 minutes to swap over. From what I can tell, the biggest difference is that the X sunshade holder has cam connectors instead of screw connectors, like Adamzan mentioned. (I already had a sunshade with cam connectors that I got a few weeks ago that I was going offer up here, but I didn't notice the fiberboard backing was pretty badly damaged. I just swapped over the connectors and and the original fit perfect.) Other minor differences are that there's more of the black paint around the edge and the dot pattern is different, but that's about it.

Thanks Nunya. That may be worth a shot. I already tried replacing the seal (or "protector" as Nissan calls it) with a new one from Nissan. I had to cut and scrape to get the old one off, and the new one was anything but a tight fit. I had to use weatherstripping adhesive and it looks like crap. I did some more digging after I posted last night, and the P/N for the Xterra sunroof is the same as for the '94-'95 Pathfinders. Which then begs the question, what's different between them and the '87-'93 version?

So here's a related question. If the X shade fits the WD21 sunroof, will a 2000 X sunroof fit a 1990 WD21 roof opening? There's an X at the JY that I pulled the roof rack off of today with a perfect sunroof and seal (no shade, but I already have that). There isn't a WD21 with a sunroof in the yard for me to experiment with, so I'm throwing this out to the brain trust.

Also don't forget about the marker/corner lights. They're wired separately from the headlights and that circuit also control the tail lights. I'd suggest looking up the Directed Electronics (DEI) 545T nite-lite system. It's $30 from SonicElectronix, a dead simple install, doesn't require cutting any wires on the factory harness, and only takes about an hour or two to install. I added it to mine a few weeks ago and it works like a champ. It gives you a couple added options, over the simple relay setup, too. It's got a photocell, so lights only come on when it gets dark. You can have DRLs (headlights only, no markers) if you don't cut the red wire inside the case. And you can wire it up to your wipers to have the lights come on when it's raining. There's even an option for what you want to do - headlights, markers, and tail lights on all the time. I'm only using the photocell option, but that's all I was looking for.

Picked up the truck from the (new) shop - a local 3rd party Nissan specialist that I'm very impressed with. The owner used to race Z cars back in the 70s and 80s, and really seems to know his stuff. In addition to the main rear seal and oil pressure switch, they also found the neutral switch, oil pan seal, and transfer case were leaking and fixed that. And they diagnosed the rattling noise from the back was coming from a loose sway-bar link and bushing - not the helper spring seats like the other 3rd party shop said. I still need to order the new shocks and t-bars, but this place will install them. (They checked with one of their suppliers, and they wanted twice the price I found online for the Bilstein 4600s - but have no issues with me providing them.)

5523- I've got pics and model info on my build thread.

Installed an automatic on/off headlight module to replace the one I fried last week. Replaced both battery terminals. Also added a (marine grade) 6-fuse holder next to the battery, and ran the headlight relays, fog lights, and amplifier to there instead of directly to the battery. It's much cleaner now, plus I've got 3 open slots for "whatever". And I made an appointment to take my truck in to have the rear main oil seal replaced next week - but not with the dealer.

For brand, find whatever has the features you're looking for. I had to go to ebay because the one I decided on was a discontinued model, but there was new stock available. Installation was pretty easy. I had pulled the factory VSS a few months ago, but left most of the cabling in place. From Nissan, there was just a switch on the dash to arm or disarm the alarm. Because I left the old harness, I was able to use it for power, ground, horn (siren), marker lights, and ignition. The only new connections I had to make were for the door lock and unlock (there were two each B/R and B/Y wires in the main harness bundle, but only 1 of each worked). Pinned in the Garage section is information about the VSS that has the wiring colors. If yours doesn't have factory VSS, then getting the factory wiring diagrams is extremely useful. Total install time was about 3 hours, mostly because I rough wired everything first to make sure it all worked before trimming the wires and cleaning up the install. One thing that makes the installation really easy is Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock connectors - I highly recommend them for any electrical work inside the truck.

Like I've said elsewhere, I'm not good with the oily bits. $900 sounds like a great deal to me. For what it's worth, here's the estimate: If we were talking the electrical system (barring the little incident with the auto-headlight mod), I'm all in. Other than the long list of convenience mods, the only things I've done are new nerf bars and replaced the cold-air intake flex piping.

Local Dealership - $1975 for the seal and $195 for the switch. Shop that I thought had messed up the truck (but didn't) - $900 plus parts. Still waiting for a couple other estimates, but It's not hard to guess who I'm not going to go with...

Took it to the dealer to diagnose an oil leak that I thought the 3rd party repair show caused. Turns out that it's the rear main engine seal and the engine oil pressure switch. Calling now to get some other quotes, but most of the money that was for the suspension work will now be going to this... Remind me again why I love this truck this much?