CNAM
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Posts posted by CNAM
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When I bought my '01 SE new back in Dec. 2000 I was thinking I wanted a manual transmission. After searching dealer inventory and available options my choices were either a pathfinder with a manual transmission with out a sunroof. Or automatic trans with the sunroof. I opted for the sunroof and the automatic. And also thinking about the traffic in LA I feel it was a good decision. I also have the manual climate controls and manual T-case shifter.
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On my wish list.
Just can't quite fathom spending 950$ on rear shocks just yet. Although I do get a substantial discount through a good friend at 4WheelParts. Still a lot of dough to shell out for rear shocks. I'm
Currently running the (Ford 2001) F-250 2" lift Bilstiens. WJ 6" coils cut pigtail on top to fit with the KR adapters on the bottom. Custom UTA's were needed to "re-center" the rear diff.
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4x4parts.com
I run 35's with minimal trimming required. It's a 2" AC(automotive customizers) coil lift +4" KR Fabs SFD in front and WJ 6.5" lift coils (chopped down to 6") w adapters from KRF in the rear. With bilstien 2001 F250 2" lift shocks rear. Also PHD bracket. And no sway bars front or rear. You can check my profile.
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Get a cat.
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I did mine a while back. I'm running 35x12.5x15
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Replaced a blown switch for my rock lights under the truck. Fixed my backup rear view cam as the wires from the license plate mount had got cut. Took it for tire rotation and alignment today as well. Now she just needs a thorough wash inside and out.
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You could make brackets so that a second bar could be mounted off of the first above and offset forward or back. For the price I paid I'm stoked with how it turned out. And as much as I use it combined with HID conversions in my headlights, a 24" LED winch bar light and I replaced me factory fog lights w LEDs. And rock lights mounted under the body. I got plenty of lumens in the dark.
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I got it off eBay. I paid 150. Led factory direct is the seller. The size came in metric. But I converted it to inches and measured. I think it was 40.5" or maybe 41.5". I recommend figuring out how you want to mount it then measure and know the exact size of the light bar you are buying, you can always make spacers as long as it's not too long. Fabing brackets or mounting to a roof rack or cargo basket is always a good option too.
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Might be worth a try.
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I got lights. I just drilled into the roof cuz IDGAF.
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Greased my UTA's and driveshaft.
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Took a pic of it
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Fills the gap under the headlight and above the bumper. Cheers.
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Actually if you add a spacer or lift spring it increases the angle of the cv axle. And by dropping the sub frame you are reducing the angle of the cv axle. So the more you drop it after lifting the more it comes back to a lesser angle. Resulting in happy cv's.
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Removed and trimmed.
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Could be timing chain or chain tensioner related.
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Sounds like it could be the timing chain. Or a tensioner.
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Sounds like sway bar links for sure! You can easily check by hand or mallet. Just get under there and give it a bump. If there's play that's your issue. Easy fix.
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Brakes all the way around.
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I have a K&N intake on mine. But I removed the lower water separator box from the intake anyways. I'm on 35's with about 6.5" of lift.
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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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Replaced my trunk lock/latch mechanism and striker. No more annoying trunk rattle. Oh so sweet!