fast5speed

A circle is composed of 360 degrees. 20-30 degrees would be 5-8% of a turn. I tried this before with my girlfriend and...well, you probably know how it went with that. "What do I do again??...Why??...This is stupid...I'm hungry!... Can't you just sell this stupid old truck and get a new one already??" I'll find a better candidate and try again What is the issue with the steering box? Low on fluid? Gunk build-up? I just bought an idler arm off rockauto last night, but I was a little hesitant to spend $70 on a center link.

wut?

Hi there, I have a 1994 D21 King Cab, 4x4, v6, 5speed. It's up to about 150k miles on it. Since I've gotten the truck (at 125k), I've replaced many, many parts, especially in the front end, but it seems to be much more...loose and sloppy than when I got it. The problem is that my steering wheel has a lot of play. I estimate as much as 20-30 degrees. I mean this in the sense that when I am driving straight, I have to turn the wheel 20-30 degrees before the vehicle moves in a different direction. Also, another problem I have is "bump steer", as it has been explained to me. Simply put, sometimes my truck will pull to the left, but sometimes it will pull to the right. Sometimes, in order to make the vehicle track straight, I have to hold the steering wheel 20-30 to the left. Sometimes I have to do the same, but hold it to the right. Occasionally, it will track straight without any adjustments. I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the truck has a very harsh ride. It is not smooth at all. Here is a list of parts I have replaced recently: Upper and lower ball joints pass. side. Upper ball joint driver's side. I haven't finished replacing the lower ball joint on driver's set yet. inner and outer tie rods, and adjustment sleeve; both sides Both CV axles shocks at all 4 corners strut rod bushings sway bar bushings stabilizer bar bushings (this is different than sway bar bushings) I need an alignment badly, but my plan was to replace all worn parts prior to taking it for an alignment. What's left to be replaced? Idler arm? center link? Where could this play in the system be coming from? thanks guys

I took my starter out and cleaned it up. There was a lot of gunk build up in there. I probably should have re-read the starter re-build link while I was taking apart my starter so it would have made more sense. Before I took my starter apart, the article was alien language, now looking back, it makes 100% perfect sense. I have already re-installed the starter in my truck so...replacing the worn down terminals will have to wait. I put the starter back in, and it cranked the engine instantly and very strong. Much improved! for now... One other potential problem: my EGI relay clicks randomly. When I reconnected the negative cable for my battery, it clicked for about 5 seconds then stopped. I was able to repeat that a couple times and eventually just said heck with it. I went into the truck to start it, to make sure it worked. Turned the truck off. Turned to walk away, and it starts clicking again. This time it didn't stop. I had to disconnect the negative battery terminal again. I would sit the negative cable on the terminal, and I could get it to click every time. Sometimes it clicks in an irregular rhythm, other times it's very methodical. Anyone know what's up with this? What does the EGI even do? I know it's the EGI relay because the clicking stopped when I removed that one.

I tapped on it a bit last night, and it didn't help at that particular time, but it's been starting all day today. The thing is, it's been starting very slow. Almost acting as if my battery is low on power. Which would suck because my battery is 5 months old.. I'm going to try to pull it out and get some gunk out.

Jeez! That's a LOT more than I was expecting it to be. Rockauto has a NEW OE Hitachi start for sale for $120 with a $34 core charge. It's $200 after the "Rob special" price? No wonder Nissan went bankrupt 10 years ago.

ughh...blasphemy

Yeah. I doubt it's incredibly simple. I tried to look up the price of a new starter motor on Courtesy Nissan of Texas, they have a very good website complete with schematics and all that. I couldn't get a price for an entire starter motor. They just wanted to sell internal parts for it. I wasn't aware they broke parts down that much.

Would you say the problem is located in the starter motor, or the attached solenoid?

The other day my WD21 just wouldn't start randomly. VG30E 4x4 5 speed, 1994. The events leading up to it failing to start were 100% normal, nothing at all out of the ordinary. The truck started just as quickly as normal with no weird noises or straining at all. I go to turn the key one night, and nothing. Everything else works as normal. Radio, lights, door chime, the fuel pump primes. Obviously, I have power, but the starter makes no noise. Just silent. I had to bump start it to get it home that night. After I drove it home, I parked on a hill (just in case), and turned my truck off. I blipped the starter to see if it would even engage, and it cranked! "Ok great", I thought. Just a fluke incident, right? I go inside, come back out 10 minutes later, it won't even crank again. I went out for the night. Come home, blip the starter the next morning, it cranks again! Go out in my other car..do some stuff..come home. Time to go out for work, WONT START. uuuuggggghhhhh!!! I was looking for the ground on my starter to see if I could clean it. I couldn't find it. I said "hell with it" and tap on the starter with a screwdriver and hammer twice. Get out, the truck starts. Drive it around the whole day without issues. The start still works perfectly with no straining. Go to a friends house, go to leave, won't start. I get under, tap it with the screwdriver, starts instantly. So what does this mean? Is it necessary I buy a new starter? Or is it that my starter has a build up of oil (from the filter of course) and that it just needs a good cleaning? My truck only has 145k miles, but it might not be the original starter. I do know for a fact that it's an OEM Hitachi one though. The reason I'm asking isn't really about the money, but I know that replacement starters seem to be 90% junk. For example, my dad made the mistake of buying a new one (reman junk of course) from Pepboys. They won't give him his money back, they will only exchange it. He's on his...9th starter in 5 years.

soaked plugs are bad. A soaked plug won't fire properly because it will ground itself.

So VGs have it too?? I don't think I've ever seen that little ball when doing and oil change.

Like $30 every 3-4 months. I guess that's expensive...but that's like less than half a tank of gas...which lasts a week or less. Isn't that what the manual says to do? Change oil every 3k? Besides, that's what I've always heard to do

I have a 1994 Nissan SEV6 truck. It now has 143k miles. It's been tapping away since 120k. I've changed the oil strictly every 3,000 miles with high-grade oil and filter since I got it (115k miles). I popped off the valve cover (the easy one to get to) and everything looked amazing! No sludge to be seen, and all my rockers and parts were such a gorgeous bronze. C'mon, now I've been adding a bit of trans fluid to my oil. All the talk about high detergents. I think I'm finally ready to just put some new lifters in. Can someone assist me in this? How do I get to them? And what do I need to know and avoid? I did a quick search on google and got a bunch of results for VG30E valve tick. One poster on a site actually say the VG30E "doesn't have lifters. it has hydraulic lash adjusters" Take those off and clean them. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4580714-ticking_noise_in_vg30e_pathfinder I've replaced the exhaust manifold studs. I've taken off all my belts and started it. I've used all types of engine cleaners and different oils and filters. Nothing has ever made a change. I just want the ticking to go away. I want to keep this truck. I've done some serious work on cars, but nothing getting to the internals of an engine. How hard of a job is this? And how potentially dangerous/damaging is it? P.S. when I popped off my valve cover, I tried to wiggle my rocker arms (I think that's what they were). 4 out of 6 of them could be moved ever so slightly back and forth. Cause a ticking noise. the other 2 were rock solid. Does this have anything to do with it?

so....why don't you just pull the needle off of the gas gauge and re-calibrate it 1/4 higher, so that it reads correctly? All this talk of pulling sending units and hoses and spilling gasoline and multimeters and wires and all that goobeldy-gook has given me a headache. My idea would be far simpler, easier, cheaper, and more effective. psst, *whispering* and nobody will have to know about it

Diesels? I had no idea.

Wow! Such dedication. Keep posting updates, please. I want to know if these will be a good buy in 10 years, or if they will even be around that long.

Currently, I work in a Volvo and Chrysler restoration shop. The owner, we call him Smitty, has a problem. He keeps buying old f@#king rusted out Chryslers for me to tear down and part out. In reality, he needs the trim pieces and other things that these cars have to donate to a costumers restoration. This guy is a wizard. He will sweep up a pile of once-was-glorious-dodge-dart rust, and just kinda breathe some hokey-pokey magic on it and *POOF* it's suddenly a 1st place winning show car. He will work on anything actually. Old Packards, Old Nashes, Huptmobiles, a few Edsels, anything that looks cool. The average restoration is $100k. This is the type of restoration where the paint job starts at $20k. I help him in the process and do anything he tells me to. Sometimes it's as mundane as sweeping the floor. Sometimes he sends me to the junk yard to fetch a glorious 3-speed auto trans out of a POS 70s Dodge truck. Most of the time, I'm laying on my back getting avalanches of rust in my eyes. In the warm months, I operate my own landscaping company.

I SAW ONE OF THOSE IN TRAFFIC!!! ....once. I got shivers down my spine. It was a warm summer day and my blood ran cold.

Might be a little late, because it seems all of the Rockauto gripe stories are at the top, but I've also had a problem with them as of late. I know it was a few months ago, but it shouldn't really matter. Back in mid-October I bought a replacement Cardone Select CV axle (NEW, not that reman junk). It arrived in the mail, and I just threw the box in the back of my truck. It sat there for months until I got around to replacing it. I guess I wasn't doing it right, because I had to remove the entire hub (upper ball joint, lower BJ, shock, brake line, and tie rod), but I eventually got it out. My old axle was as sloppy and limp as a wet noodle. I go to put the new axle in, and, after 20 minutes of jiggling and juggling it, I found out that the 5-bolt-spread is not correct. Kinda like lug studs not matching up with the lug holes on a wheel. Only 2 of the 5 bolt holes matched up. Lucky Advance was still open and I got a reman axle (significantly less sturdy than the cardone). Anyway...I was kinda mad. I was replacing the CV in preparation for a wicked snowstorm the next day. The job took me 2 hours longer than it should have. And in the end, I had to shell out an extra $60 to Advance. I'm SO glad they had it in stock though. I call up Rock Auto the next day, and at first they were like "well....it was 3 months ago, so it's your fault". But I was firm about it and they said if I cleaned it up I could return it for the cost minus shipping. I went back and checked, and they still have the exact same (faulty) part number listed in the catalog for sale. It's unfortunate to hear problems with them. They've always been amazing for me and my friends. Actually, I have heard of RA messing up with flywheels on several occasions. Tell us how it goes with the one from...Summit?

wow....I wish trucks like in those pictures were still around...Those trucks look freaking awesome. Where the heck are all these options I keep seeing brochures for?? Light bar?? Off-road lights?? Grill guard? Winch? Fog lights? Never have I seen a single Hardbody with any of those options/accessories, in real life that is. By the way, Alkorahil...I just died laughing

wow. What a troll. Not a single thing that kid said made any sense. I knew it was all BS when he started talking about selling master-crafted inside/outside ceramic coated headers for under $100. But like seriously, maybe he wants these custom headers so can can top 200hp on a 1990s 3.0 liter pick-up truck engine.

How do I go about getting one of these?