01Pathmaker

Awhile back my mother-in-law had this same issue on her '01 LE, I think is had a bad speed sensor, but I'm not sure. She had it repaired at the dealer and I'm sure she still has the paperwork, I'll check it out and get back to you.

Hmmmm, that doesn't sound too good. I'd have to say something is not right. I'll be curious to see the pics...

The reason the mfg says 26 (or any # for that matter, prior to the mid-2000's) was the same reason they would come with tires with a 180 treadwear rating (original tires on my '01 lasted a whopping 13k miles!) is for a more comfortable and quiet ride. Now, Ive noticed the recommended psi seems to be more, I can only assume that this is due to the increased push for better mpg ratings. As ever tire and vehicle vary, I've always found the "sweetspot" for the tires I'm currently running.

Hopefully it will do the trick, still waiting for the gasket to get here.

It's possible that the previous owner brought it in for the recall and they did the simple level 1 repair (insection, scuff and spray undercoating) because rust was minimal. If this in fact did happen, this is why no open recalls showed when the service guy punched in your vin. When you bring it in, if they try to tell you they're only going to do a level 1 (which is good in the sense that there is nothing but minor surface rust) I'd be persistent and insist they do the level 2 (quite a bit more involved, adding braces in the strut towers). Had the level 2 done on my '01 about a year ago, rust was fairly minor, but my dealership knows that I don't go down quietly (have gotten corperate involved twice in the past to get situations rectified), so when they called to tell me, I got no arguement when I told them they were going to do the level 2. Keep us posted.

Thats some nice country up there, truck looks good!

Doesn't look to be all that terrible, seem to be catching it early enough. Nissan will take care of the strut towers under the recall, as for the rest, as long as it's not holes, can be sanded or ground down (accordingly) to fresh metal, treated/glazed/primed/painted. As for preventing rust, best thing to do is keep it as clean as possible, properly applied undercoating may help, but at this point even that would bubble in areas where it may be starting prior to application. I've always thoroughly flushed the wheel wells and undercarriage after a beach run, and several times during to winter. Hasn't eliminated it, but certainly helped keep it at bay.

The center bore on titan wheels is smaller (believe it or not), they can and certainly have been used on hardbodys, wd21s and r50s, but the center must get bored out a bit before they'll fit. Some have had a machine shop do it to retain a hub centric fit, but plenty have done their own with a dremel with no ill effects. Just be sure to do it from the backside and don't go all the way through otherwise you'll lose the ability to retain the center cap.

Hahahaha! This will be my official build thread, so stay tuned! Called the guy with the X, still waiting for him to get back to me...

Hahaha! I know, I still can't believe it either, and though it's tempting to double my money real quick, I really need to see where this journey leads! I figured the bumper wouldn't be a straight up bolt on, but if the overall dimensions are similar, I can make it work (perks of having a welder in the garage). The guy is looking to sell it complete, doesn't want to get involved with parting it out, but he's asking a grand. I'll see if I can meet up with him over the weekend and maybe I'm on a lucky streak! I'll keep y'all posted.

Thanks, yeah I'm still looking to find something majorly wrong cause things like this never fall into my lap. It's got 3 small spots of rust/rot (rockers just in front of rear flares on both sides and a small spot just behind the ds rear wheel above bumper). So far though it looks like a home run! Hey, anyone know if an aftermarket front bumper from a 2000 Xterra will fit this? Having a tough time finding a conclusive answer. Found a lifted X with a blown motor on craigslist, its got a nice arb bumper, fairly new 32" bfg's, a few other items I could use, then I'd part the rest out.

Gonna try the pics again, here goes:

Good point, I forgot that the cig power is a switched circuit on our trucks. I use mini taps like this http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-RP-Circuit-Converter/dp/B004AHADOC/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407934473&sr=1-4&keywords=fuse+tap anytime I'm pulling power for another added circuit.

Oh, forgot to compliment you on the radio location, looks awesome. Only suggestion would be to swap to a keyed power source, maybe use a fused mini tap and piggyback off the radio circuit. This way there's no chance of accidentally leaving it on, killing you battery.

I agree that for best reception/transmission capability the roof is the best place for the antenna, but aesthetically (and vertical clearance wise) not the best. Personally, I like the idea of a hood mount on the driver side (opposite the fm antenna), this will still offer great performance and would look decent. I like the look of mounting it on a rear corner, but have heard mixed reviews on performance.

Having trouble posting pics from my phone, guess it'll have to wait til I'm on the computer.

I'm running the same exact tires (size too) on my '01, don't remember off the top of my head, but will check and get back to you. I too am all about even wear so have adjusted accordingly. You could also do the chalk test, make thick lines across each tire then drive straight on a flat paved surface for a short distance, increase/decrease pressure until the lines wear off evenly.

Coming along very nicely S4!

So further investigation is leading to the possibility of the tank gasket. Gonna order it up and post the results.

Thanks guys, put about 2hrs into it today,just goibg through to see what it needs, which so far is: exhaust, valve cover gaskets, front caliper pins/slides need to be lubed or replaced and shocks/struts. I'll also be changing all tge fluids/filters, full tune up and a thorough cleaning. Looks like I'll be "all in" for under $2500, easily! Now I just need to read the thread on how to post pics here...

So I happened across a deal I couldn't pass up, a '96 R50 SE 4x4! It's got almost 170k on it, picked it up from the second owner (bought it feb '03). Has been meticulously maintained mechanically (timing belt @86k & 164k, mobil1 lof's every 3500-4500, trans service every 40-50k, all with receipts!), but does need a little love. It was their 3rd vehicle for the last 4 years and they've only put less than 5k on it during that time, they gave up trying to find an electrical drain after replacing the battery and alternator (took me 20mins to find that the power antenna motor continuously clicked, unplugged it, charged the battery, let it sit for 3 days, all good, useds to die after a few hours on a full charge!), and the exhaust is rotted. Has a small amount of rust/rot in the rear of the rockers and behind the driver rear wheel, but is structurally sound (checked the strut towers and all the other typical spots). The interior is also pretty clean, just has a stale odor from sitting so much the past few years. Runs great, drives great, brakes are in good shape, as are the tires (I'll be upgrading them anyway), and I'm still waiting to find something bad! For now I just plan on going through it thoroughly, full tune up, fluids, filters, exhaust, check all lines, then as long as it all checks out, the mild build will begin. Looking to keep it as inexpensive, simple and practical as possible. Planning on KYB's all the way around, Steve's 1" spacers, 31x10.50 grabber at2's on black d-windows, safari rack (maybe a dyi if not a craigslist find), and some extra lighting. I'll update with pics, my findings and progress. Wish me luck cause things like this don't happen to me!

Anytime I have a torn boot I replace the axle(only 2 so far, 1 on each side) , I'm in sand and dirt alot so I know grit got in there. Guess it'd be ok to just do the boot if you mainly stick to the pavement.

Hmmm,maybe I'll also try a new seal and see what happens. On the bright side, all the evap equipment will have been replaced by the time I'm done...

Yep, gas cap was my very first attempt. The area around the top flange on the tank has a very slight "seepage" look but not nearly enough to cause the very strong odor. As strong as it is I'd think it'd be easier to find!

Ok, so I pulled and checked evap lines all the way up to the motor and all are perfectly clean inside (guess I didn't need to do the canister after all). Pulled the access panel under rear seat, got blasted with gas odor when I popped that off, but can't see anything obvious. The only thing left tht I can think of before pulling the tank down, is the "vapor pressure sensor". I might have to do the unthinkable an call the local stealership, confirm if they have a smoke machine, nobody else in the area does. If anyone else has any other ideas, please chime in!