Manik

Most likely, check the fuse links at the positive battery cable. That was the problem with mine and I hunted for it for quite some time. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Looks like is going to be like a ford 9 inch. The bearing presses on the axle shaft and the entire assembly is held in by the 4 bolt retainer plate. Remove the 4 bolts, I'd use a chisel to get between the mating surfaces to loosen it first. Then a couple of love taps with a ball peen and it should be free. That's the way I used to do it anyway on the old ford 9's. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Absolutely, I think you should be able to use any hose, just as long as there aren't any kinks in it, you should be golden.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I would definitely do an inspection in the fuel tank, my wd21 has set up twice for several years with varying issues. The first time wasn't a problem, started it up and added new fuel to the tank. The second, the fuel pump sounded very rough, it had set up for roughly 4-5 yrs. I pulled the pump and the tank was full of rust due to the ethanol in the fuel attracting moisture. However I did pull the tank to clean it, but, pulling the pump doesn't take that long and is well worth it imho.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Check the fusible links at the battery. I had the exact same thing happen.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Any check engine lights? The cat is a possibility, but, if its faulty it should set a code. The shaking at idle could be EGR, throttle body may be dirty, idle air control valve, or just the need for a tune up. The OBD2 system does a decent job of monitiring all of the intricacies of enngine performance and management. I would start with the basic stuff like a tune up, check the mass air flow sensor and your vacuum lines, it could be hunting for idle. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I have a 2007 Chevy 3/4 ton with a 6.6 Duramax and it's been a great truck, the mileage hauling/towing is better than that of its gas counterpart. That truck has been driven from Texas to Colorado many times while my eldest was in college in CO. When driven conservatively I have gotten 18 mpg towing a trailer. I will agree with you about all of the current diesels with all of the dpf system and extra smog crap, its not worth it, I wouldn't have a new one. My 6.6 is one of the last years before they started putting all of that smog crap on them and completely ruining the practicality of a diesel truck. I have a friend that had my truck newer gas counterpart, 2015 GMC 6.0 gas 3/4 ton truck, it towed just fine, but, only got 12 mpg, the absolute best mileage ive gotten towing is 19.8 towing a 6000 lb vehicle on a U-haul trailer from Texas to Alabama on the flat stretches with a tailwind, 70 mph seems to be the DMaxes sweet spot for towing mileage. Government mandates on emmisions have killed the draw, at least for me, to newer diesel trucks. As for the 5.0 Cummins the engine itself would be a beast without all of the smog crap on it and in a lighter truck/vehicle. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I know the 4bt is heavy, 300 lbs heavier than the vg30, I think it would be we'll worth the time or at least investigating the possibility. What would be awesome if it could be bolted directly to the manual 5 speed. I am sure there would definitely be an SAS in this deal too.. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

What about a Cummins 4BT swap?? Lack of electronics, big power capability, the downside is the weight of the 4bt... Hmmmm... Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

It has been done, many times I am sure. There are many options available, personally, id yank the engine, have the bottom end rebuilt and do a VG33 head swap, better performance with the same wiring and injection system, no mods necessary other than the head upgrade. There are affordable rebuild kits out there and with a bit of machine on the bottom end along with the cylinder head upgrade, you'll be golden. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I had a thought a little while ago. When I was getting this rig back on the road, or trying to, I was having issues getting it to start ans run. It wound up that the 3 inch length of hose that connected the fuel pump to the line has rotted ans split. The only hose that I had available at the time wasnt much better, but, it worked and has for 2 years. I'm thinking that it may be causing this problem. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

The truck turns over just fine, normally even, but, it takes 3 sometimes 4 cranking cycles before it will start. After she starts, she runs just fine, but, doesn't seem to have the throttle response it had a few months ago before this problem started. I am not really sure where to start, there aren't any codes or anything else unusual going on. Anybody have any ideas of where to start? I have been thinking maybe the distributor? Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

I rebuilt/rebooted mine several years ago. After being driven through sand, dirt and some seriously deep mud, then being completely broken down, cleaned and boots replaced, they are remarkably quiet. Rebuilding them isnt that hard, the boots are fairly cheap and if you have good or even fair mechanical skills, just rebuild em and be done, you will be glad you did. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

That looks like the typical routing of a clutch hard line. I'd trace the line from origin to destination just to figure out what it is. From the pics its kindof hard to tell for sure, but, you're asking the right crowd for a definitive answer. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Id recommend changing the water pump while your there. Especially if its never been changed. Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk